Best Distributor and ones to avoid

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L31MaxExpress

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Replacing a worn out/abused part with a new part usually makes a difference regardless of the new part.

With 850k on my four 1st gen Vortecs, none of them currently need a distributor--they all work fine. I have even swapped out the distributor on my 96 K1500 (259k) with a new billet aluminum distributor to see if there was an "improvement". Didn't change a thing because the original distributor is still in good condition. Even the teeth still look good.

Most factory distributors that fail suffer from poor maintenance--oil not changed or engine running warmer than it should and over time the composite housing cracks or wears prematurely. Lack of maintenance/abuse ain't the fault of the distributor or its design.........

My gear failed at less than 90K and my engine always gets maintained and always ran as cool as the cooling system GM built it with allowed. With the stock radiator and 5 bladed steel fan it was a warm runner in the summer time from day one. The distributor body was practically two pieces from a crack in the housing when I replaced it. FWIW, the 350 that came out of my van looked like new inside other than a few worn bearings. It was a crappy design. I had a HEI in my old 83 G20 van go nearly 300K practically untouched.
 

L31MaxExpress

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I just live right, I guess.........
You must!

Then again my whole 97 was a lemon of a vehicle.

Master cylinder went out when it was a little over a year old.

A/C was leaking at the compressor. Service tech changed the manifold seals. It was actually leaking at the compressor case oring. Starved the compressor of oil and the compressor locked up just out of warranty.

4L60E crapped out at 38K miles.

Sat for several weeks back in 2004 without being started. On startup it hydraulic locked and sent the #2 rod out of the side of the block at 57K miles. When I tore it down the intake gaskets were gone. When I put the new engine in multiple injector poppets were stuck and had to change the spider.

GM Goodwrench L31 broke a valve spring at only 5K miles. I swapped the springs, rocker arms and cam. Factory 96 LT4 cam and 1.6 rockers. While the heads were off installed thinner head gaskets.

Exhaust manifolds cracked around 65K on both sides.

4L60e case with 4L65E guts died at 78K

Pinon bearing sleeve collapsed and destroyed the ring and pinon at 82K probably due to the abuse the dying 4L65E put on it with the P1870 code that kept recuring and would slam 2nd gear so hard it would spin the tires.
 
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Schurkey

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Apparently Blue Streak does make a vortec distributor cap with brass contacts now.
Who owns "Blue Streak" now? Used to be Standard Motor Products.

The last Blue plastic/brass contacts cap and rotor I bought DON'T have "Blue Streak" anywhere on the products or the packaging--just "Standard Motor Products".

SMP, and especially their high-end "Blue Streak" line used to be top-quality. Now a lot of it is Communist Crap.

I saw a notice on the Hayden web site that they're now associated with Blue Streak.

I have an MSD Street Fire one on my 1998 5.7 Vortec. Aluminum shaft,
Aluminum shaft? No.

Steel shaft, aluminum housing.

I was skeptical about Advance Auto distributors but gave it a shot and haven’t had an issue since and it’s going on 3 years old, they are billet aluminum, comes with cap and rotor ready to drop in for 125$.
This one? (7.4L)
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...d-rotor-new-t1878/10435878-P?searchTerm=T1878

Or this one? (5.7L)
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...d-rotor-new-t1829/10435875-P?searchTerm=T1829

(Second link edited to correct part number)

Looks like a partially-machined cast aluminum housing, NOT "billet".

I have been using United Motor Products In 3 of my trucks for the last couple of years. The '98 Vortec has a Part number of 9362 and available at rock auto.
9362 is for small-blocks.

9361 is for 7.4L.
 
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alpinecrick

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You must!

Then again my whole 97 was a lemon of a vehicle.

Master cylinder went out when it was a little over a year old.

A/C was leaking at the compressor. Service tech changed the manifold seals. It was actually leaking at the compressor case oring. Starved the compressor of oil and the compressor locked up just out of warranty.

4L60E crapped out at 38K miles.

Sat for several weeks back in 2004 without being started. On startup it hydraulic locked and sent the #2 rod out of the side of the block at 57K miles. When I tore it down the intake gaskets were gone. When I put the new engine in multiple injector poppets were stuck and had to change the spider.

GM Goodwrench L31 broke a valve spring at only 5K miles. I swapped the springs, rocker arms and cam. Factory 96 LT4 cam and 1.6 rockers. While the heads were off installed thinner head gaskets.

Exhaust manifolds cracked around 65K on both sides.

4L60e case with 4L65E guts died at 78K

Pinon bearing sleeve collapsed and destroyed the ring and pinon at 82K probably due to the abuse the dying 4L65E put on it with the P1870 code that kept recuring and would slam 2nd gear so hard it would spin the tires.


Yer killin me Shurkey, just killin me.......

Still, I have four Gen 1 Vortec motors, all of them still have the original, functioning distributors. What are the odds......
 

TheAutumnWind

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That's funny, on my TBI (I know they're different than the Vortec) my Spectra Premium GM04's ICM failed in less than 2000 miles. Ok, the Vortec has the ICM external to the distributor so, maybe they're OK, I don't know but, I'll never recommend one for a TBI!
Standard motor products *EDIT Whoops it was UNITED MOTOR PRODUCTS M1990 actually* premium ICM failed too. Ended up spending the few dollars more on an acdelco one and used mx4 thermal paste. It has gone about 30k miles on that setup and has seen some very hot days and sat baking in the sun the whole time.
 
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