Fer sure, I’ve tested batteries at 12.5 volts but had a bad cell.X2. I'd have it load tested even if the resting voltage looks OK. Most auto parts stores will do it for free.
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Fer sure, I’ve tested batteries at 12.5 volts but had a bad cell.X2. I'd have it load tested even if the resting voltage looks OK. Most auto parts stores will do it for free.
WHAT "tests"? There's a heap of 'em, and they're all needed. I'd be especially interested in alternator AC voltage, sometimes called "ripple".Their tests showed the battery and alternator were good; alternator is putting out over 13 volts and the gauge is indicating that.
Seems likely. Check it with a multimeter. Most multimeters are fused at 10 amps, some will take 20 amps "short term". The fuses for my multimeter are hatefully expensive, so I really don't want to pop 'em. Any drain of more than 1/2 amp (0.5 amps) is excessive after the computer goes to sleep after the ignition is off, doors are all shut, lights are out, and ~30 seconds goes by. Lower amperage is better.So it seems like a possibility that I have a current draw somewhere, if the truck sits a couple days....
So I will just undo the ground cable every evening till I can figure out what it is.
I suppose. Pull the fuse for the power locks and see what happens.Is it possible that the relay for the power locks could be doing this? There does seem to be some correlation between the locks working properly and battery power( or lack thereof?).
They don't have a fuse, it's a circuit breaker. This is a '97 truck, built in late September '96.WHAT "tests"? There's a heap of 'em, and they're all needed. I'd be especially interested in alternator AC voltage, sometimes called "ripple".
I'd have expected over 14 volts from the alternator, assuming the battery is reasonably charged.
Seems likely. Check it with a multimeter. Most multimeters are fused at 10 amps, some will take 20 amps "short term". The fuses for my multimeter are hatefully expensive, so I really don't want to pop 'em. Any drain of more than 1/2 amp (0.5 amps) is excessive after the computer goes to sleep after the ignition is off, doors are all shut, lights are out, and ~30 seconds goes by. Lower amperage is better.
I suppose. Pull the fuse for the power locks and see what happens.
The alternator was reading 13.9 volts, I saw the reading.WHAT "tests"? There's a heap of 'em, and they're all needed. I'd be especially interested in alternator AC voltage, sometimes called "ripple".
I'd have expected over 14 volts from the alternator, assuming the battery is reasonably charged.
Seems likely. Check it with a multimeter. Most multimeters are fused at 10 amps, some will take 20 amps "short term". The fuses for my multimeter are hatefully expensive, so I really don't want to pop 'em. Any drain of more than 1/2 amp (0.5 amps) is excessive after the computer goes to sleep after the ignition is off, doors are all shut, lights are out, and ~30 seconds goes by. Lower amperage is better.
I suppose. Pull the fuse for the power locks and see what happens.
Fine. Pull the circuit breaker, see what happens.They don't have a fuse, it's a circuit breaker. This is a '97 truck, built in late September '96.
This has happened three times to me.The alternator diode(s) could have shorted; that would not be affected by the fuses.
However, I'd also expect higher amperage draw. I don't worry about parasitic drains under about 0.2 amps. I'm not sure of your meter reading--you're saying you have a drain of .014 mA? Or .014 A?
Are you sure the battery is not self-discharging via the conductive slime that builds-up on the case? CLEAN the battery case.
Disconnect both battery cables, FULLY charge the battery so that it has 12.6--12.7 volts AFTER it's been off the charger for an hour. (It'll maybe have 13+ volts when fully charged and fresh off the charger.) See what happens.
The battery may be plain ol' defective, unable to hold a charge.