Amsoil Engine Flush? Should I Do It?

[kwslvdo96]

Looking for some advice on if this is something worth doing or not. I was thinking of doing a Amsoil engine flush treatment. My truck is a 1996,1500, 5.7 Vortec with 115k original miles. I'm going to be trying the Amsoil 10w30 oil as well. I've herd mixed emotions when it comes to engine flush treatments im curious with someone who has tried it and if there was any good results or if its another gimmick to make money.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Unless you have an underlying issue I personally would not waste the money on a flush for an engine with your mileage. IF how ever it has not been properly maintained and you have an issue with sludge build up in the lifter valley and rocker covers then it MAY be worth it.

 

[kwslvdo96]

Unless you have an underlying issue I personally would not waste the money on a flush for an engine with your mileage. IF how ever it has not been properly maintained and you have an issue with sludge build up in the lifter valley and rocker covers then it MAY be worth it.

Thanks for the reply, I don't have any kind of issues with the truck it runs good. I was just thinking of it as more of a preventative thing. But that's why I asked the research ive done some people say its a good thing some say it will take out your engine.

 

[Schurkey]

OK, so let's say that the stuff works. Let's say that your engine is full of sludge accumulation in the lifter valley, under the valve covers, etc. So you dump the chemical in, you run the engine, and the chemical dissolves the sludge.

WHERE DOES THE SLUDGE GO?

If you're lucky, some of it winds up in the oil filter. But you've got a lot of it, so the filter plugs. Then the bypass valve opens which allows unfiltered oil into the bearings and into the hydraulic lifters.

The hydraulic lifters act like sixteen tiny oil filters. The oil passages INTO a hydraulic lifter are fairly large. Particles get inside, but they can't get between the tiny clearance between the lifter plunger and the lifter body, so the hydraulic chamber under the plunger fills up with crap.

Everything else that's oil-wetted gets abrasive particles run through it.

 

[someotherguy]

Engine flush chemicals are appropriately named. You flush your money and engine down the terlet.

Richard

 

[SAATR]

Just run whatever oil and filter you want and change it at a regular interval. Best "flush" you can do is buy the cheapest API rated oil you can find and run it for 1000 miles, dump it, and refill it. It'll do more than any flush for removing accumulated crap in the pan and valley, do it safely, and isn't a expensive. The cheap, house brand oil change specials at places like Advance and OReilly's work well for this.

 

[Schurkey]

"Best" way is to install a bypass oil filter. Amsoil sells 'em new. There's two version of brand-new Frantz bypass filters. Other companies also market them.

"I" buy older Frantz filters used off of eBay. They're installed on every engine I build, for the first few hundred miles at least. I've got two permanently installed, and hoping to permanently install a couple more--except those vehicles have very tight under-hood clearance that makes installation complex.

With a bypass filter, the oil is kept so clean you can extend oil changes for tens of thousands of miles, and still keep the engine spotless inside.

 

[SAATR]

"I" buy older Frantz filters used off of eBay. They're installed on every engine I build, for the first few hundred miles at least. I've got two permanently installed, and hoping to permanently install a couple more--except those vehicles have very tight under-hood clearance that makes installation complex./QUOTE]

What purpose does a bypass filter serve if it's only run for a few hundred miles?

 

[Supercharged111]

I flushed my C1500 with diesel once. Chunks came out. I've never done anything more aggressive than ATF or Marvel since. Just enough to hopefully make the lifters happy and let whatever chunks of sludge are in there stay put.

 

[BNielsen]

I've got the Amsoil flush, and I've been running Signature Series 10W30 for the past 20K miles or so, I didn't do the flush and haven't had any issues or anything. The first few oil changes the oil came out DARK. Like diesel oil dark, the last few oil changes have been somewhat clear but not "crystal" clear like some people are reporting with Amsoil.

"Best" way is to install a bypass oil filter. Amsoil sells 'em new. There's two version of brand-new Frantz bypass filters. Other companies also market them.

"I" buy older Frantz filters used off of eBay. They're installed on every engine I build, for the first few hundred miles at least. I've got two permanently installed, and hoping to permanently install a couple more--except those vehicles have very tight under-hood clearance that makes installation complex.

With a bypass filter, the oil is kept so clean you can extend oil changes for tens of thousands of miles, and still keep the engine spotless inside.

I'm wanting to install one of the dual-filter bypasses but I don't know a good spot to mount it; I thought about the inside of the frame rail under the driver's door, but I'm concerned about clearance for the oil lines and the front driveshaft.