my ac stopped working last fall . I want to fix it before summer . I tried recharge and still blows hot air . where do I need to start looking ? ive been told orifis tube and also evaporator core . don't want to waste time or money by throwing parts at it , but want to fix it right . any help would be great
ac stopped working
- Thread starter blsticms1
- Start date
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WHAT VEHICLE???
Does the compressor engage?
Has the refrigerant leaked-out again? At the age these vehicles are, you might as well open the system, and replace EVERY O-ring/seal. Leak testing is VERY important; and not easy or convenient.
My '97 K2500 was low on refrigerant. Recharged. Compressor wouldn't engage. Low pressure cutout switch failed. Replaced switch--AC worked again. But I missed a refrigerant leak, and in two weeks the system was undercharged again.
Does the compressor engage?
Has the refrigerant leaked-out again? At the age these vehicles are, you might as well open the system, and replace EVERY O-ring/seal. Leak testing is VERY important; and not easy or convenient.
My '97 K2500 was low on refrigerant. Recharged. Compressor wouldn't engage. Low pressure cutout switch failed. Replaced switch--AC worked again. But I missed a refrigerant leak, and in two weeks the system was undercharged again.
AuroraGirl
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^^^Nice Band-Aid
AuroraGirl
I'm Awesome
Well.. its a design of the system, caps have seals on them, and they are just shraeder valves
I'm thinking the cap and seal is to keep the schrader valve clean, not to hold back up to 400 PSI.
Agreed, but I've seen O-rings on those caps. Sorta like a belt and suspenders.
Nad_Yvalhosert
I'm Awesome
Yes, the cap is actually the primary seal on the valve. The schrader is the secondary seal.
Doesn't seem reasonable to me...but what do I know? I'm not an engineer.
OTOH, I remember being told by my mentor a thousand years ago--before that bulletin was published--to be careful of the caps: "Tight, but not too tight".
