A new style of Diamond Reflector headlights on ebay - Similar to the discontinued TYC

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88GMCtruck

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So, I ran across these on ebay a month or so ago.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHROME-HOU...kon-/372254123442?vxp=mtr&hash=item56ac1325b2
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When I saw the ad the angular reflector made me think they were TYC Elegante headlights, however once I opened the ad I saw they are similar but slightly different. They are also considerably different from all the other chinese ebay headlights for our trucks - So I bought a set to try them out.

First thing first, I compared them to my TYC headlights. The top is the new light, lower is the TYC Elegante that is impossible to find.
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Then I tossed in a halogen HIR bulb. They have a really nice beam pattern for a reflector light IMO, it's actually a bit sharper than the TYCs with the same bulb.
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They seem built pretty well. Thick plastic housings, nice clear lenses. Each low and high beam side of the light has a U shaped foam filled breather for moisture, something I have not yet seen on an aftermarket GMT400 headlight. The mounting brackets like most aftermarket GM headlights are junk. The headlight side adjuster brackets are also flimsy and junk, IMO moreso than others I've had.

I didn't take photos of this part, as if you want to perform it you should be able to understand it anyway.

1: In order to fix the flimsy brackets, as most do I kept the core support side bracket in place. The adjuster brackets were still too flimsy for my tastes, so I removed the adjuster brackets from the OEM headlights in order to swap them.

2: Once you have them apart, remove the pivot point mount (it's the 3rd mount on the bracket and is the only one that isn't an adjuster). It unscrews. Space it out with approx 5-6mm of washers and re-install. This moves the headlights to the proper depth to sit in the grille.

3: Then take the new headlight, and use a dremel to slightly enlarge the square openings for the adjusters and reshape the pivot point mount from round to square on the new lights. This allows you to use the stock adjusters and brackets. Be careful, the new lights are a dense brittle plastic that can break easily if forced.

4: Attached the adjuster brackets to the new lights. I found the new lights are thicker and opted to glue the square attachement points in to avoid them unclipping.

5: Install and adjust the lights.

Here is the finished project:
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BowtieBrody

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Damnit. I JUST put new headlights in my truck, a set of glass lenses similar to the Spyders.

Guess I need to justify buying these at some point. I've always wanted the Elegante lights but like Dave said, impossible to find anymore.
 

Sparkysikes

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Throw in the auxbeam f16 led bulbs to really wake those up too. Mine are a bit different but the silverstars compared to good led is no comparison. Led all the way
 

df2x4

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Throw in the auxbeam f16 led bulbs to really wake those up too. Mine are a bit different but the silverstars compared to good led is no comparison. Led all the way

Drop in LEDs for these housings may be brighter than halogens but the way they're designed destroys the solid cut-off line, isn't DOT legal, and can irritate oncoming traffic. I'd strongly encourage anyone looking to get the most out of this style of housing to avoid drop in LEDs or HIDs and read through this thread.

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/spyder-headlamps-my-take-on-em-and-lighting-in-general.36647/

The long and short of it is that these housings were designed for halogen bulbs, and therefore that's what they work best with. A good set of halogens with no blue (or any other color) tint on the bulb glass will work great, you just need to upgrade the factory circuit that runs all the power for the headlights through the switch. I recommend building or buying an HD headlight harness with the 4-Hi mod included. That way the headlight circuit is powered through relays straight off of the battery.

If anyone feels they still need more output on top of that (which I doubt anyone will, I've got some pictures in that thread) the only bulb swap I'd ever consider in these housings would be an HIR. They're a nearly identical design to the factory halogens, with the filament in the same location so they'll throw light the same way. You just have to trim the mounting tabs on the bulbs a little to get them to fit. All that is covered in the thread, too. It's long but there's a ton of good info in there. Here's a link to the CandlePower page about modifying the HIR tabs to fit.

https://store.candlepower.com/mohirbuba.html
 

88GMCtruck

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Throw in the auxbeam f16 led bulbs to really wake those up too. Mine are a bit different but the silverstars compared to good led is no comparison. Led all the way
I would run a LED in the highbeam (I am in my other truck, they are BRIGHT) but LEDs in this style housing do not work so well in low beam applications. HIDs can be hit and miss, but typically respond slightly better due to the fact they have a closer focal length to a halogen than a LED does.

Drop in LEDs for these housings may be brighter than halogens but the way they're designed destroys the solid cut-off line, isn't DOT legal, and can irritate oncoming traffic. I'd strongly encourage anyone looking to get the most out of this style of housing to avoid drop in LEDs or HIDs and read through this thread.

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/spyder-headlamps-my-take-on-em-and-lighting-in-general.36647/

The long and short of it is that these housings were designed for halogen bulbs, and therefore that's what they work best with. A good set of halogens with no blue (or any other color) tint on the bulb glass will work great, you just need to upgrade the factory circuit that runs all the power for the headlights through the switch. I recommend building or buying an HD headlight harness with the 4-Hi mod included. That way the headlight circuit is powered through relays straight off of the battery.

If anyone feels they still need more output on top of that (which I doubt anyone will, I've got some pictures in that thread) the only bulb swap I'd ever consider in these housings would be an HIR. They're a nearly identical design to the factory halogens, with the filament in the same location so they'll throw light the same way. You just have to trim the mounting tabs on the bulbs a little to get them to fit. All that is covered in the thread, too. It's long but there's a ton of good info in there. Here's a link to the CandlePower page about modifying the HIR tabs to fit.

https://store.candlepower.com/mohirbuba.html
Funny you should say that, I actually installed HIRs in these headlights. I would try HIDs in them, depending on the reflector they might work just fine - however still aren't legal. The TYCs in my dually have HIDs in them and they aren't blinding at all. The design of their reflector plays well with them and the light pattern doesn't really change between HIDs and Halogens in that housing.
 

df2x4

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I would run a LED in the highbeam (I am in my other truck, they are BRIGHT) but LEDs in this style housing do not work so well in low beam applications. HIDs can be hit and miss, but typically respond slightly better due to the fact they have a closer focal length to a halogen than a LED does.


Funny you should say that, I actually installed HIRs in these headlights. I would try HIDs in them, depending on the reflector they might work just fine - however still aren't legal. The TYCs in my dually have HIDs in them and they aren't blinding at all. The design of their reflector plays well with them and the light pattern doesn't really change between HIDs and Halogens in that housing.

I saw that you had HIRs in these, looks great!

That's interesting about your findings in relation to the TYC reflectors when used with HIDs. Still not something I'd recommend doing personally, at least not on the low beam side. Another reason they might be the "holy grail" of discontinued housings, though.
 

7echo

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Will these make better light without the harness upgrade?

@88GMCtruck - does your truck have the harness upgrade?
 
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