97 Tahoe LS 4x4 help!

[Rebel511]

1. I crawled under there since I was busy at school for my class A license I been riding my bike 05 cbr600 anyway so the red wire goes to that connection that can spin and the yellow wire is connected on top of that cylindrical thing not sure what it is.

2.yea I always run straight pipes I had a 87 r10 once I took the cats off u feel it but yea songs a bit**
3. I discovered another hole in one pic it's in the corner of a pan also I noticed I believe the motor oil or tans oil cover is missing 2 screws on the top all bottom ones are the I inspected my cv but couldn't find any tear or cuts

 

[Rebel511]

Some more

 

[Schurkey]

The original wire harness would have had a purple (fades to pink-ish) wire. VERY common for them to corrode from road-splash; it's almost universal. So someone has replaced the purple/pink wire with some yellow wire. It goes to the starter solenoid "S" terminal.

When that wire corroded on my '97 K2500, someone had already replaced the final ~8 inches of purple/pink with white wire connecting to the starter solenoid. Then that wire corroded and caused problems. I had to splice in a three-foot section of wire because what I could access of the wire harness under the truck was still corroded. I had to open-up the harness on top of the engine to access nice, copper-colored wire, and drop three feet of fresh wire down to the starter solenoid. I didn't have purple wire in the correct gauge size, so I used red.

This...

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...was connected to the black end of this...

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...and all of that was replaced by three feet of this.

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Apparently, the knock-sensor wire on your truck was also repaired at the same time. So you have wrong-colored wires, unprotected by heat shielding or plastic loom, poking out naked for all the world to see.

 

[Rebel511]

Can you take a few more pictures of those wires? Maybe we can figure-out what they are for or whether they're necessary.

I, for one, am inclined to remove any crap that prior owners have installed, because it often becomes trouble later.



If the system is still stock, you'll have two cats.

I won't recommend removing the cats if they're still functioning properly.

If they aren't functioning properly, I suggest you get some good advise regarding "remove" or "replace" because you're in Calif and they seem to take these matters seriously. See this post elsewhere on GMT400 (be sure and take the link):

Catalytic converters.

I've used stainless band clamps for various exhaust projects since the '90s. Highly recommended, as long as a person understands that they are not always re-usable. I can re-use them about 75% of the time, once. By the second or third re-use, they're scrap. Be sure to buy the correct...

www.gmt400.com

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Thanks for the pictures (in the post above).

If you've the time and motivation, you may wish to clean up / replace some of that wiring so it doesn't turn into a problem down the road. It may work fine now. It may work fine for a long time to come. But I have a lot of distrust for the other's electrical work, as few do it well.

The knock sensor connector and integral wire can be replaced as an assembly, e.g., see RockAuto under the following parts heading:

CHEVROLET > 1996 > K1500 SUBURBAN > 5.7L V8 > Electrical-Connector > Knock / Detonation Sensor Connector