95 Chevy k1500 wiring nightmare

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Justice7688

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Can anyone tell me what was bolted on here it's above and to the left of the steering column. And where I'll find the wire that plugs into the ignition switch pictures will show what I'm talking about. Replaced the steering column and I didn't take the old one out and I'm thinking they took an extra part off
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to the left of the steering column and for the life of me I can't find the plug that plugs into the igniting switch rod. Now I have lights on the dash when I turn the key on but when I try to start it nothing happens and I'm sure it's the wire that isn't hooked up and I don't even see any wires that will hook up there. Unless it's too the past that is missing. It looks like just a basic 2 wire plug. Any help is appreciated thanks. And it seems like there should be more wires plugged into the information center.
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east302

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I can’t find the stud in your first picture on my 98, but want to say that you’re missing one in the hole next to it. Maybe others will recognize it.

On your shift interlock, mine is a black and green/white wire connection. The wire comes from the large connector and bundle that runs to your turn signal. It comes from the side closest to the seat.

On your convenience center, you’re missing the door ajar/key-in buzzer module which is the large one at right. On my 98, the lower right relay is the turn signal flasher (which you have) and the one to the left is for DRL. Not sure if a 95 had DRL or not. The purple wire connected to NAT in my photo is, I believe, for rear window defrost.

I hope this helps.

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AK49BWL

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The stud and bolt hole are for a clutch pedal bracket assembly. Which means your truck may have been a manual at one point? If so, there should be a connector near the firewall with four wires in it, two of them are supposed to go from the ignition switch to the starter relay, only when the clutch pedal is fully depressed.

@east302 most 95s didn't have DRLs and it looks like his convenience center isn't pinned for it.
 

Justice7688

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Thank you I actually found after looking at the old column the wire that plugs into the ignition was pulled out of the new column but I took the one out of the old column and put it in the new one and was able to turn it over in neutral but it won't turn over in park so I'm thinking I might need a new neutral safety switch. Unless you had another idea. And I'm pretty sure I need a new fuel pump. I'm not getting fuel to the the engine. I haven't tested the connectors yet plan to do that in the morning but I did manage to get it to fire over and run with a bottle of gas and a pin hole. Checked all the fuses and relays all seem good. Fingers crossed I pin it down to the fuel pump. Can't wait to hear ol girl for up again. She's been around for a long time in the family and I finally got my cousin to sell her to me. She hasn't been running in about a year after doing the gear of the distributor And losing the key. But she's so close I can hear those long tube hooker headers and true duals growling in my head.
 

east302

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It’ll be the 60e on a half ton.

That shift lock solenoid is just to keep it from shifting out of park without the brake pedal pushed in, so it shouldn’t keep it from starting.

If it starts and continues to run on starting fluid, then I’d suspect a fuel pump issue. I’m not familiar with the specs for a TBI, but a fuel pressure check probably wouldn’t hurt. Not sure if those have a test port near the intake or if you have to disconnect something near the filter to fit a gauge, though.
 

Justice7688

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It’ll be the 60e on a half ton.

That shift lock solenoid is just to keep it from shifting out of park without the brake pedal pushed in, so it shouldn’t keep it from starting.

If it starts and continues to run on starting fluid, then I’d suspect a fuel pump issue. I’m not familiar with the specs for a TBI, but a fuel pressure check probably wouldn’t hurt. Not sure if those have a test port near the intake or if you have to disconnect something near the filter to fit a gauge, though.
Thank you and I'm thinking this is the heavy half with the bigger rear end I'll have to count the bird to be sure and I'll do the and for the trans. And the old steering column was got wired do to the keys being lost and at first I could crank it over in park but then one day came out and was trying to get it to start and it wouldn't do I tried neutral just for luck and it would turn over. But he'll if I can get it to start in neutral to get it running I'll worry about the not starting in park issue later. I just figured a neutral safety switch cause I seem to rent back in the day sometime telling me if it won't start in psi but it will in neutral then that was more then likely the problem. I could be remembering wrong thou. You know with the old age and wild lifestyle in my younger years lol. I'm going to test the pressure tomorrow and the connections. Also going to try a online fuel pump that I have here just to see if I can get it to fire over.
 

Erin

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It’ll be the 60e on a half ton.

That shift lock solenoid is just to keep it from shifting out of park without the brake pedal pushed in, so it shouldn’t keep it from starting.

If it starts and continues to run on starting fluid, then I’d suspect a fuel pump issue. I’m not familiar with the specs for a TBI, but a fuel pressure check probably wouldn’t hurt. Not sure if those have a test port near the intake or if you have to disconnect something near the filter to fit a gauge, though.
Have to disconnect at the fuel filter to test pressure.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Pressure s/b 10 - 13PSI. When you turn on the key with engine off (KOEO) the pump should run for about 2 seconds then shut off. While cranking it should run continuously. The TBI doesn't hold pressure after the pump shuts off (unlike a Vortec), your pressure should drop off almost immediately.

Edit: if you have a 7.4L your fuel pressure s/b 18 - 20 PSI, only 94 & 95 had the smaller injectors running on higher pressure.
 
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