92 tbi 4.3 drivability issues

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STEBS

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alright, my truck has been acting up lately, and now its to the point that i cant drive it. The symptoms really have me stumped.the problem is intermittent, and does not really have ryhme or reason, however the condition seems to "like to" start at cruising/steady throttle.

Took of from a stop sign one day and she started missin, tunnin like , popping thru the tbi and backfiring. Limped home, looked it all over, went on test drives, tried my damndest to recreate it. No luck. It would do it off an on, and i noticed i could turn the key off, and back on (kick start it) goin down the road and things would go back to normal for a short period.

Eventually it completely went away (i assumed it was bad gas as it stopped after i filled up) for about 2 wks and even a 160 mile trip to pick up an engine

Now its back to doing it, except worse and now more often. It back fired yesterday and completely split my muffler case.
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I managed to limp home and since then it has trouble just goin doen the block with out acting up. When it does, it acts like timing, and it also acts like pure electrical problems.

I pulled the plugs and found this
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All plugs were carbon fouled, new plugs and wires later(i already had laying around), no change. I tested the coil and pick up coil with an ohm meter, both tested good. Swapped in another coil with no change. Verified timing at 0 with est unplugged. BUT i did notice the when running fine, the timing advance works just as it should, however when it start acting up the timeng advance doesn't advance properly. 1/2-3/4 throttle (with est plugged in like normal) and my timing mark is hanging out just a little passed 12 degrees. I would estimate 13-17 degrees whereas when its running normal, with the same throttle the timing mark shoots up to about 30ish (my last mark is 12 so its all an estimate)

I do suspect the issue is not only tied with timing, but also voltage... I noticed various voltage issues lately like reading 13.7 at the alt but around 11-12 at the battery.

This past winter i could drive into town at night and when i turned my blower to high (resister is bad so all i have is high) the radio would ahut off and come back on. If i turned the headlights on, same thing. Sometimes it would do it, other times the radio stayed on

2-3 months ago my speedo started acting funny. I could be at a standstill and it read im doing 80, it would jump around. This problem started real slow and has progressed. It started as just a momentary glitch while i drove.and even then it was just every now and then. Maybe once a wk. then it got to where it would do it for the whole trip into town. Now when it does it, the speedo needle just dances around. Sitting still, driving, and ive noticed that the running issues "seems" to corrilate with the speedo. Not EVERY time but the majority of the time, if the speedo is dancing is when it starts backfireing and cant handle any sort of load. The times that speedo is acting notmal, the truck runs like a top.

A couple times in the last few days the radio would just randomly off and turn back on, my voltage gauge on the dash (most of the time) reads around 12-10v (it has always read alt voltage of 13.5-14.7)

Its hard to tell if i have a voltage issues that making componets act wierd and throw things off, or if i have a fualty component thats shorting out tge rest of the system. I do suspect with the lack of toming advance when it does act up tho leads me to beleive a fualty ESC, but i cant find a single test one in chillton or on ALLDATA for the ESC. I do get an ESC code under heavy load conditions for my knock sensor that hasnt been there since i bought the truck 4 years ago. I assume it's irrelevant. But from text ive also read that the ESC can retard the timng by about 20 degrees which seems like the amount of degrees different in the timing mark between running good and running bad.


Anybody care to weigh in?
 
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STEBS

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I did find (what i beleive to be) a faulty ground on the intake last night... All conections to that point showed a couple ohms resistance vs. 0 resistance at any givin ground point on the engine. I changed the ground point from the intake to the A/C bracket all ground wires now ohm to 0

No change
 

STEBS

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Ran a fuel pressure test. 13 psi

I didn't suspect fuel pressure problems, especially with the fouled plugs, but figured i could atleast rule it out
 

sewlow

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These trucks will act funky in all sorts of weird ways if the electrical system is not working as it should.
Check all the ground cables. Upgrade to 'The Big 3' if they're suspect.
How's the battery? Alternator?
 

ram1220

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My 90 Sierra 5.7 did this about 3 years ago. I could hear a clicking sound from behind the dash near the radio when it would be messing up. Turns out I had a corroded battery cable. The terminal ends connected to the battery were fine. But when I pealed back the cable the wire was all corroded. Changed it out and truck has been running like new ever since.
 

Doc Rock

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My 95 K1500 Suburban did exactly as yours. Had to have it towed home. Retired mechanic. I did the diagnosis... BAD ignition Coil. I replaced the Coil & coil Wire ONLY. Working like a champ. As a precaution, I later replaced the Dist Cap & Rotor.
 

Schurkey

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Seems to me like you have MULTIPLE problems.

however the condition seems to "like to" start at cruising/steady throttle.
My '88 had a highway-speed cruise misfire that got progressively worse. Eventually it stalled and wouldn't re-start. (Hundreds of miles from home.)

Dealership replaced the distributor mainshaft. Common problem--magnets around pickup coil crack.

it acts like timing, and it also acts like pure electrical problems...

...I tested the coil and pick up coil with an ohm meter, both tested good.
An ohmmeter can tell you if the ignition coil or pickup coil are BAD. They cannot tell you that either coil is GOOD. Both coils need additional testing to confirm they're fit for use.

Verified timing at 0 with est unplugged. BUT i did notice the when running fine, the timing advance works just as it should, however when it start acting up the timeng advance doesn't advance properly. 1/2-3/4 throttle (with est plugged in like normal) and my timing mark is hanging out just a little passed 12 degrees. I would estimate 13-17 degrees whereas when its running normal, with the same throttle the timing mark shoots up to about 30ish (my last mark is 12 so its all an estimate)
Ignition module, ECM, wire harness than connects them. Inspect the harness. Probably replace the module. Hope the ECM isn't faulty.

I do suspect the issue is not only tied with timing, but also voltage... I noticed various voltage issues lately like reading 13.7 at the alt but around 11-12 at the battery.
Battery is SEVERLY discharged. Re-charge and TEST battery, clean the batt terminal connections, see if problems disappear. THIS IS THE FIRST THING YOU SHOULD DO!

2-3 months ago my speedo started acting funny. I could be at a standstill and it read im doing 80, it would jump around. This problem started real slow and has progressed. It started as just a momentary glitch while i drove.and even then it was just every now and then. Maybe once a wk. then it got to where it would do it for the whole trip into town. Now when it does it, the speedo needle just dances around. Sitting still, driving, and ive noticed that the running issues "seems" to corrilate with the speedo. Not EVERY time but the majority of the time, if the speedo is dancing is when it starts backfireing and cant handle any sort of load. The times that speedo is acting notmal, the truck runs like a top.
My '88 K1500 had speedo problems, but with different symptoms. Turned out to be a faulty instrument cluster (speedo itself was OK.) Verify the speed sensor, and it's wire harness.

A couple times in the last few days the radio would just randomly off and turn back on, my voltage gauge on the dash (most of the time) reads around 12-10v (it has always read alt voltage of 13.5-14.7)
Again, charge battery, see what happens. Would be good to have battery load-tested, alternator checked, and the cables verified with voltage-drop testing.

Its hard to tell if i have a voltage issues that making componets act wierd and throw things off, or if i have a fualty component thats shorting out tge rest of the system. I do suspect with the lack of toming advance when it does act up tho leads me to beleive a fualty ESC, but i cant find a single test one in chillton or on ALLDATA for the ESC. I do get an ESC code under heavy load conditions for my knock sensor that hasnt been there since i bought the truck 4 years ago. I assume it's irrelevant. But from text ive also read that the ESC can retard the timng by about 20 degrees which seems like the amount of degrees different in the timing mark between running good and running bad.
I keep forgetting about the ESC module. Gonna have to research that.

Put a knock sensor in the block, reconnect the wire harness.
 

Schurkey

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That'll teach me to not look at posting dates. (Or not...I'm not good at checking dates and authors.)

OTOH, it might have been nice if the original poster had come back and updated his thread.
 
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