Slime
I'm Awesome
Man, I wish mine was thst simple...that it would just stop working. I'm cursed with the intermittent fuel pump working...sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't and it's only 3 months old!
91 C2500 fuel pump replacement notes
- Thread starter guyf2000
- Start date
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The "fuel pump" consists of two assemblies: An electric motor, and the pump itself.
The FIRST thing to do is figure out if you have a problem on the electric side, or on the fuel/pump side of the system.
Intermittent? My money is electrical. Did you replace the in-tank wire harness when you replaced the pump? They're known to corrode. Have you tested the relay? Looked at the wires that run along the body?
evilunclegrimace
Does not always play well with others
There is nothing else that runs as much as a fuel pump on these trucks. They run from the moment the key is turned on till AFTER the key is turned off. There are also Millions of these trucks on the road and there are going to be failures. There is no possible way to know when.
While working at a GMC dealership I purchased my first truck new in 1988 and the pump failed after about 6 years. It happens.
I changed the fuel filter twice a year (6-7 thousand miles per change). The main reason for my changing the filter so often is the amount of salt that gets used here in the north east. The filter receives a lot of road splash and a new filter twice a year is an easy way to make sure that the fuel line nuts do not become a frozen rusty mess.
The main reason for fuel filters becoming plugged is water contamination, very rarely does dirt/particulate matter make it past the pump sock. When dirt/particulate makes it past the sock pump failure is a given. Having said all of that I vary rarely find dirt/particulate in fuel tanks that have pump failures most of them have some water in the tank. The best way to help minimize the amount of water that accumulates in a fuel tank is to buy fuel from a reputable supplier and keep the tank as full as is practical. This helps cut down on the condensation that forms on the inside of the tank when there are temperature swings during the time that the tanks are not completely full. ( and yes I understand that you cannot keep a tank full at all times).
The number of miles between filter changes is subjective, They can become plugged in less than 500 miles if the fuel system is contaminated and could possibly run for 100,000 miles if the system is never contaminated. YMMV
While working at a GMC dealership I purchased my first truck new in 1988 and the pump failed after about 6 years. It happens.
I changed the fuel filter twice a year (6-7 thousand miles per change). The main reason for my changing the filter so often is the amount of salt that gets used here in the north east. The filter receives a lot of road splash and a new filter twice a year is an easy way to make sure that the fuel line nuts do not become a frozen rusty mess.The main reason for fuel filters becoming plugged is water contamination, very rarely does dirt/particulate matter make it past the pump sock. When dirt/particulate makes it past the sock pump failure is a given. Having said all of that I vary rarely find dirt/particulate in fuel tanks that have pump failures most of them have some water in the tank. The best way to help minimize the amount of water that accumulates in a fuel tank is to buy fuel from a reputable supplier and keep the tank as full as is practical. This helps cut down on the condensation that forms on the inside of the tank when there are temperature swings during the time that the tanks are not completely full. ( and yes I understand that you cannot keep a tank full at all times).
The number of miles between filter changes is subjective, They can become plugged in less than 500 miles if the fuel system is contaminated and could possibly run for 100,000 miles if the system is never contaminated. YMMV
Finally done. The last items were aligning the frame bolt holes with the bed, and fixing threads in two nuts. The missing bolt was replaced with a new bolt.
The bed was lifted using a hoist on each side at the wheel well which made final alignment fairly easy.
Balky threads in two nuts were fixed with a metric M12x1.75 tap. It still disturbs me the threads were messed up and I do not know how or why.
Bed bolted down now using original bolts. I did not put threadlock on them but just tightened them, and will monitor their behavior.
The bed was lifted using a hoist on each side at the wheel well which made final alignment fairly easy.
Balky threads in two nuts were fixed with a metric M12x1.75 tap. It still disturbs me the threads were messed up and I do not know how or why.
Bed bolted down now using original bolts. I did not put threadlock on them but just tightened them, and will monitor their behavior.
A single hoist works for me. Cross-brace the bed with a 2X4. Easy. 'Course, my bed has the extra-lightweight, optional Tinworm Holes.
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I like that. Hope I remember next time I feel like lifting the bed.
