'88-'90? How to remove wiper pulse module from wiper motor?

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deckeda

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Yeah I still need to move the truck and comb through the grass and leaves for one of brackets I mentioned.

The new motor is installed, and listening/observing the motor turn the arm, I verified all speeds including the intermittent speeds now work, as does the washer pump again. Really happy! I'm going to treat the truck to some new SS lock nuts for the wiper arm rods; the originals are rusty. I also need to buy a new screw or few for the cowl nuts. One almost didn't come out.

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Hopefully I'll find what I lost and be able to align the rods and arms OK. I had to swap over my old motor arm. I think I did OK installing it in the same position as the previous arm. If not, at least I know how to fix it but that would probably mean removing the motor again.

Despite not pressing it too far onto the motor shaft, that arm was barely hitting the mounting bolt nearest the outside. I had to back the bolt out quite a bit for it to clear. WTF.

So, not quite a "direct bolt on" upgrade. Since I can reach the backside of the bolt while the cowl's still off I'll put some blue thread locker on it. I don't really want to get a shorter bolt; these are hard enough as it is to align and get started.
 

deckeda

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I can now see how perhaps the "single ball" motor arm attaches to both rods, with all the brackets stacked on one another. So maybe I could have done that instead of swapping mine over. Either way I still need to track down that missing bracket.
 

deckeda

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"the piece underneath"

not sure I follow there

The motor bracket (arm) has a stud attached (single or dual "head") that's less of a bearing than a simple stud knob. Hardened steel, thankfully.

I asked the wife for assistance in finding the missing bracket on the ground and of course she got it in less than a minute. Once I handed her a magnetic doohickey. Whatever. So yeah, one clearly overlapped the other and away we go. All finished.

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The brackets appear to be copper (!) Same appearance as copper, when cleaned off with wire wheel. I suppose that's a compromise between hardness and softness so that they don't bind nor de-conform. Perhaps I've misjudged GM engineering. Nah, doubt it.

Notes: 8 total sheet metal screws for the center section, 4 "up top" and 4 nearer the edge at the firewall. Both longer and short Philips screwdrivers. The 4 nearest the firewall are shorties (reuse them) and the 4 "up top" that see weather are best replaced with SS versions ... #8 I think. Took a while to confirm that at my local Ace.

The two screws for the two side pieces of the cowl (that come off separately, and firstly) are flat head screws. (The ones up top are shouldered.)
 

someotherguy

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Those corner pieces do use screws with a flat underside, but they also have an integral washer to keep the screw from biting into the plastic and breaking it.
 

survivor0596

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(The '91? - later trucks have a different design.)

I found an image that provides a hint.

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I can maybe kinda sorta reach that screw underneath. But I can't turn it. Certainly can't see it. And without knowing if it's phillips, Torx, hex head, whatever, I don't want to waste time messing it up.

Guessing its a phillips but I can't get actual leverage on it. The screwdriver sorta engages with it, sorta doesn't.

Does anyone know? Thanks.
Thank you so much for this picture. Going to replace my module in the next few days.
 
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