Then maybe you shouldn't ask for them...smhHorsepower/torque,lift/duration,tuning That’s all care about not opinions
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Then maybe you shouldn't ask for them...smhHorsepower/torque,lift/duration,tuning That’s all care about not opinions
The issue comes down to time and cost because I really don’t want to swap the engine just because I know I’ll pull it and it will end up sitting due to the shear amount of customer work I currently have any ideas would be greatly appreciated
No issue re gearing the truck is going to get a sas soon with a Dana 44 front problem is it’s gonna end up with up with 35’s minimum because where I go ends up being very remote on some of these ranches here in south texas
First off if you would have read the entire post you would have noticed that the goal for this truck is to be a mobile mechanics truck I am a Independent mechanic that specializes on powersports equipment here in south texas. I drive on everything from rutted up ranch roads to deep sand and even have to rock crawl on occasion just to get to the machine so that I can either repair it or recover it so that I can tow it back to the shop that’s it, the truck needs to be tough and reliable all I’m asking is what’s the best way to hop up the engine I don’t give a damn about gearing it’s going to change eventually when I either do the sas myself or pay someone to do it.If you don't think you'll get an engine swap done in a timely matter...how is that SAS swap going to happen?
You've gotten a ton of advice/opinion here, even after poking the bear a bit. Sounds like the simple most cost effective answer is to re-gear.
A 33" tire will take you anywhere pulling a trailer that a 35" tire will (just won't look as brodozer). Your trailer becomes the limitation at that point.
Makes me want to find a van now lol that thing is freaking sweet I can only imagine the looks you get when you out run em at a red lightWhen I still had the old 350, 906 heads with Pac 1218s and Comp 787 retainers, marine intake, 395 marine cam, 1.7 roller rockers, march underdrive pulleys and thorley tri-ys into the factory 3" dual exhaust to the muffler. 4L85E and 3.73 geared 9.5 14-bolt. On 91 octane it made 257 rwhp at 4,900 and 310 rwtq at 3,200. On E85 it made 272 rwhp at 4,700 and 330 rwtq at 2,900. On 91 octane it only ran with 29° of timing at about 3,600. On E85 it liked 34° as early as 2,600 rpm. Down at 2,500 with the timing cranked up it made nearly 40 ft/lbs more on E85. It was nearly 100°F in the shop that day, can hear the duramax fan roaring to keep the old 350 cool. Even at 5,800 rpm it was only about 10-15 hp down from peak at 4,900. I later put more cam in it and made 290 rwhp and 330 rwtq. With a 215/223 on a 108 lsa GM SPO 357 hp cam it made peak torque at 3,500 and peak hp at 5,500. Down at 2,900 it was still making nearly 330 tq, from ~2,800-3,800ish. With the SPO cam torque was table top flat for nearly 1,000 rpm at 330. The old 350 really liked the 108 LSA cam.
This was on 91 octane. Wish I had video of the E85 runs, sounded like a different engine.
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03+ body styles have the 6.0L gas or 6.6 diesel option from the factory and 4 wheel disc brakes if you ever look for one.Makes me want to find a van now lol that thing is freaking sweet I can only imagine the looks you get when you out run em at a red light
And you could read the vibe of the forum and realise it doesn't do or appreciate hostility.So before you start spewing your opinions just remember to read the post first
With going SAS and 35's, at minimum i'd recommend 4.88 gears. The chart is a good guide, however it is based on 65mph not 70-75.
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First off if you would have read the entire post you would have noticed that the goal for this truck is to be a mobile mechanics truck I am a Independent mechanic that specializes on powersports equipment here in south texas. I drive on everything from rutted up ranch roads to deep sand and even have to rock crawl on occasion just to get to the machine so that I can either repair it or recover it so that I can tow it back to the shop that’s it, the truck needs to be tough and reliable all I’m asking is what’s the best way to hop up the engine I don’t give a damn about gearing it’s going to change eventually when I either do the sas myself or pay someone to do it.
So before you start spewing your opinions just remember to read the post first
The issue comes down to time and cost because I really don’t want to swap the engine just because I know I’ll pull it and it will end up sitting due to the shear amount of customer work I currently have any ideas would be greatly appreciated
the FIRST upgrade you should do if you're going to add power is getting rid of that 4l60e!!! especially considering you run 33'sI’m sure this has been discussed but my question is I have a 97 k1500 ccsb with a 5.7 vortec and a 4l60e the truck is currently sitting on 33’s.
The truck runs great I’ve had the truck for 18 years now but I’m starting a mobile mechanics Business primarily working on powersports equipment and with the price of used trucks it’s not in the budget to buy a work truck so I want to build this truck for towing sxs’s back to the shop problem is it’s a bit of a dog, sry for the long intro but I feel information is key in this scenario.
1- is it worth hopping up the 5.7
2- is it worth swapping in a Ls based engine
The issue comes down to time and cost because I really don’t want to swap the engine just because I know I’ll pull it and it will end up sitting due to the shear amount of customer work I currently have any ideas would be greatly appreciated