4 corner mod

[tooturntdad]

So Ive dug around for this mod and a lot of people are making these into signals. I on the other hand want to switch around and make them static up top.
Two questions. Are the corners on the bottom portion of the grille the same as the uppers?

And what is the wiring color code for just parking light? Reason being is that I want to just have the upper ones static when the lights are on and not flash when the signal is engaged. I got vampire clips and additional 194 bulb carriers pulled from another truck. I just need to make sure I can snag two more corners to house the bulbs and make sure I tap into the right wires to achieve the look I want. Ive attached a pic of my truck lit up for reference.

Thanks folks

For those wondering the bulbs are all LED.
Micro Evolution low and hi beams
ZEVO for signals
Phillips for the 194 bulbs.
Truck came with resistors from having LEDs already installed.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Parking light power is brown.
Ground is black.
But the OE uses the turn signal wire on the ground side, blue I think.

What are Vampire clips? If they are Scotch locks, DO NOT USE THEM. Throw them in the trash and ONLY use crimpable butt connectors and shrink tubing.

What does static mean?

An easy way to find out if the bottoms fit in the top is to remove the bottoms from the grill, and test fit them in the top...

 

[Hipster]

ONLY use crimpable butt connectors and shrink tubing.

Throw those away too, and solder and shrink wrap it. Butt connectors create resistance in the wire run, is a bad habit to get into, and almost always create problems later on down the road.

 

[618 Syndicate]

Throw those away too, and solder and shrink wrap it. Butt connectors create resistance in the wire run, is a bad habit to get into, and almost always create problems later on down the road.

What about the low temp solder butt connectors?

 

[kennythewelder]

Vampire connectors. The appsolute worst electrical connector ever made. Saulder and heat shrink is the best connection you can make. As for making the top marker running lights, well, you may want to check your local codes for auto lighting. You may live in a rural area where it won't be an issue, but, in 1968,,,, yes 1968, a law was passed that all vehicles are to be equipped with side marker lights. Even though, the new vehicles of today don't seem to have any, when looking at the side of any vehicle from 1968 to the present you can see the side of any vehicle as it goes by. When turning, the front side marker lights blink to indicate that the vehicle is making a turn. Do both of these lights need to do this, IDK. Then this will or may be different state to state.

 

[Hipster]

What about the low temp solder butt connectors?

I'll use pre-tinned or un-tinned terminal ends but in the middle of a wire I'll always solder. A butt connecter makes a stiff point in the wire and from flexing or vibration the wires can fray at the end of the butt connector(no fault of the connector) inside the heat shrink. Soldered connections supposedly can suffer a similar fate at the ends of the solder joint but I've never seen it. Soldering on the terminal end also seals that open end from moisture and corrosion into the joint. If you're working on sensor circuits adding resistance to the values the ecm see's with a butt connector can create alot of problems.

Idk, after working on bikes and finding butt connectors inside frame tubes and internal handlebar wiring I'm A-n-a-l about how things are done and as part of the collision repair thing any pigtails etc. are required to be soldered on.

 

[618 Syndicate]

That makes sense.

 

[351FUN]

For those wondering the bulbs are all LED.
Micro Evolution low and hi beams

LED's in reflector housings is a dick move to anyone else unfortunate enough to share the road with you.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

LED's in reflector housings is a dick move to anyone else unfortunate enough to share the road with you.

Damn I'm sorry for being a dick. Lol

 

[Erik the Awful]

Sooo... during the previous weekend I was talking with my race team captain about some wiring repair on the car. I absolutely love the butt terminals with heat shrink on them. When I was a Nissan tech, Nissan supplied them for wiring repair during their injector harness recall. They absolutely were manufacturer approved. My team captain disagrees. He insists on bare metal crimp connectors with heat shrink, and I did all my wiring repair as he asked. The radio wasn't working, and you want to know what I found? A bare metal crimp connector with heat shrink had failed.

Sure, soldering would have prevented it, and it's considered a best practice, but soldering takes time and it's not always practical. The factory connections aren't soldered for a reason. The issue isn't in solder vs no solder, it's in poor crimping practices.

Here's my biggest tip:
Pick that crimp connector up and look at it. Does it have an opaque plastic covering? Throw it in the garbage. You can't reliably crimp them.
If it's bare or has a clear enough plastic covering that you can see through it, look for the hole in the backside of the crimp. If you are looking at that hole and holding the crimpers flat, you'll get a good, staple-shaped crimp. If that hole is pointing out the end of the crimpers or towards the handle, you're going to get a () shaped crimp, and the wire's going to pull out.