4.56 gearing

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95dually

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Wrong vehicle for that application.


Correct vehicle for that application.


You don't need different gears, you need a different highway truck.

Maybe a highway penalty-box car.
No I need different gearing I don't need that low for barely pulling much. Already have a car for my wife not buying an other one that's just an other insurance payment and more maintenance. No need to have the engine screaming down the highway and 2600 rpm. That's good gearing if tour towing in the city bit if your driving highway it's not if I got 11-13 on highway with higher gears I'd be happy if not that's fine too just don't like the engine screaming like that. Paid 2000 for the truck and put 300 to get in on the road. I can fix eveeything my self and not bring to the shop. I don't like new vehicles to many sensors and stuff that go wrong with them I spend more money on fuel to be able to fix it myself.
 

95dually

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You usually see duallys on the highway.

Most farmers around here with a balebed, and hauling cattle run 4:10's.

The price of another vehicle, insurance, and maintenance could eat up the savings of a second vehicle, even if that is within a persons means.

Geared or not, I wouldnt expect much for mileage on a big block. Even the guys with 6.0's in their newer farm trucks are maybe getting around 11.
Yeah if I get 11 to 13 with a little higher gears I'll be happy if not that's fine too just don't like the engine screaming like that down the highway. The fact I can fix everything in my truck myself and never have to go to a shop I can pay a bit more for fuel and insurance is cheap 500 a year.
 

1989GMCSIERRA

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I recently bought a 95 chevy Cheyenne 3500 4×4. It is geared really low 4.56 the truck is mainly going to be used for highway use. Maybe a dozen times a year will be used for hauling bales horses and cattle. Looking at changing gears should I go 3.73 or 4.10. right now going 105-110 km rpm are 2500-2600 RPM fuel mileage is horrible 8-9 mpg
Live with the mileage. That truck was made for pulling and hauling stuff. It won’t change much even if you regear. I had a 89 crew cab with a 454/TH400/NP205 and 4;10 and I got 9/10 mpg.

Before you go nuts I would make sure that the front and rear gears match in ratios. Gearing isn’t cheap to buy and install. And if the gears match front to back with two axles it’s gonna get very expensive very fast. You’ll NEVER see a return on that from fuel savings. I doubt you woidl recoup the money even if you sold it. Also shop will most likely say to rebuild the axles/s. Either way you’re looking at a minimum of $8/900 just for gear seals and bearing sets, the labor will be in the $1500/2000 range. If you just gotta have lower gears I would hit the junkyard for stock axles change the fluids and start a swap.
So you're already at a 31" tire. 33 is as tall as you can go on a dually. You're going to be looking at 255/85/16 and some spacers for the rear wheels.
My advice…Do NOT get 255/85/16. They are not only hard to find because it’s a weird size and nobody stocks them but very limited brand/tread design. And also very expensive.

Also on a dually my experience has been for tires the fronts will wear twice as fast as the rears.
 

Keeper

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Live with the mileage. That truck was made for pulling and hauling stuff. It won’t change much even if you regear. I had a 89 crew cab with a 454/TH400/NP205 and 4;10 and I got 9/10 mpg.

Before you go nuts I would make sure that the front and rear gears match in ratios. Gearing isn’t cheap to buy and install. And if the gears match front to back with two axles it’s gonna get very expensive very fast. You’ll NEVER see a return on that from fuel savings. I doubt you woidl recoup the money even if you sold it. Also shop will most likely say to rebuild the axles/s. Either way you’re looking at a minimum of $8/900 just for gear seals and bearing sets, the labor will be in the $1500/2000 range. If you just gotta have lower gears I would hit the junkyard for stock axles change the fluids and start a swap.

My advice…Do NOT get 255/85/16. They are not only hard to find because it’s a weird size and nobody stocks them but very limited brand/tread design. And also very expensive.

Also on a dually my experience has been for tires the fronts will wear twice as fast as the rears.
All that ^^^^.

FYI - GT4 is the RPO code for 3.73, GT5 is for 4.10's

I don't even mess with rear tires much anymore. The key is to make sure you are comfortable with your tire size beforehand (wheel size, tire size, brands, cost, availability) as those rear tires will be on there a long time, and the fronts will need to match diameter.
 

cj8scrambld

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As mentioned a set of 255/85/16 may be easier to experiment with....and change back if you don't see the result you want. Do the math, a 4.56 ratio "may effectively" act like a change to 4.10 with the 255s increased height....approx 33"


31" to 33" makes your 4.56 "act" like 4.16:...
 
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KRS1

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I have 235/85/16 on mine
That reduces your rpm a bit, I was wondering what taller tire would work with the dual wheels. I have 4:56s with 225/75/16 and run about 3000 rpm at 108 kms (67 mph). Do you have a Dana 70 HD? I wonder if they need a need carrier size to go down to a 3:73
 

Supercharged111

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With the 235/85/16 and stock wheels there is VERY little space between the tires. I don't have a good pic of that, but I had a burgundy dually with that setup and they'd be hard pressed to not rub with a load.
 

95dually

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That reduces your rpm a bit, I was wondering what taller tire would work with the dual wheels. I have 4:56s with 225/75/16 and run about 3000 rpm at 108 kms (67 mph). Do you have a Dana 70 HD? I wonder if they need a need carrier size to go down to a 3:73

That reduces your rpm a bit, I was wondering what taller tire would work with the dual wheels. I have 4:56s with 225/75/16 and run about 3000 rpm at 108 kms (67 mph). Do you have a Dana 70 HD? I wonder if they need a need carrier size to go down to a 3:73
I have 235/85/16 and don't have dama diffs just cheese 14 bolt I believe it is
 
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