350 gets close to stalling when stopping

[alpinecrick]

No messing around change the fuel filter I did mine at 96k with onset of idle symptoms it was butt plugged black slip pouring out, more idle misses at 98k change again last night, purrssss real nice. $7.99 AutoZone cheapest. Statistics wise I can't believe people change them at all let alone 30k and it's rare I see it as a first case must do but it is a must do.

Change the fuel filter every 15k--it will allow a quality fuel pump to last, like, forever......This holds true for Vortecs and TBIs.

 

[thegawd]

really? that often? what if the entire system is new? would you still change the fuel filter that often? my burbs fuel system is 75% new, tank and most lines. many years before I did all that I had a no start condition that turned out to be the distributor but I was a newbie and thought well I have spark so were good there but it wasnt at the right time. anyways I pulled the fuel filter and couldn't believe how much shyt was in there! I purged a couple gallons of fuel until I felt like the line was clean. it's no surprise though after seeing how rotten the tank got a few years later. my truck was f***ed and I needed it to get parts. so I took and blew the filter clean, sprayed it with carb cleaner and blew that out till it was clean and did this a few times. I felt like it was a brand new filter when I reinstalled it.

I know there cheap but how dirty can a fuel filter get in 15000 miles? I only uses top tier shell fuel in my trucks. I feel like it shouldn't get that dirty? but I dont know

but if it's an old system damn right, iv seen how dirty it can be... blew my mind that fuel was even flowing through it. I bought a handful once I finally made it to the parts store. and it was changed again when I replaced the tank. not sure how many miles ago but I do have it written down somewhere. it was 3-4 years ago though.

I'm just curious what your thoughts are.

Al

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Change the fuel filter every 15k--it will allow a quality fuel pump to last, like, forever......This holds true for Vortecs and TBIs.

really? that often?

I bought my 88 5.7L in 2002. Other than 1 brake job, a water pump, and oil changes (of course), I didn't change anything else until I blew a head gasket in 2018. That was the 1st time I changed the fuel filter, suction sock and upgraded to an EP381 along with all the other stuff . So, I went 16 years between fuel filter changes and there was nothing wrong with my pump and sock either

This was all in CA and AZ - low humidity, no freezing/thawing crap. Nothing but Top Tier gas. I guess it all depends on conditions and quality of what you stick down there

 

[Schurkey]

I want to wait for a response from Schurkey. I’m kind of leaning towards the snap on, but it has to be worth the extra $75. The cartridges and accessories aren’t cheap if I need to buy more in the future.

I have zero experience with Actron scan tools. If there's no bi-directional capacity, pass on it. And verify before purchase that it's going to interface with everything you need it to--Engine, trans, ABS, air bags, instrument cluster, etc.

I've used the Snap-On to activate the AIR system diverter, and to test the "limp-home" mode on my '88 K1500 via the bi-directional controls.

The newer vehicles have stepper-motors that swing the needles of the gauges in the instrument cluster. The Snap-On will interface with the instrument cluster of my '03 Trailblazer; very helpful for finding popped stepper motors--just command the gauges from 0 to 100% of the meter reading. The gauges that don't swing the needles have failed. (and the dash lights that don't light up via scan tool command have similarly failed.) I can control the idle speed of the Trailblazer using the Snap-On, to assure that the IAC is working.

Remember that the Snappy is old; mine takes forever to boot when first plugged in--which is my main impetus for getting a newer tool. And the whole capability of the tool revolves around the software cartridge, you HAVE to have a suitable cartridge for whatever you're working on.

The computer system used on the vehicle is more limiting than the capabilities of the '2500 scan tool. Newer vehicles give more information, and more options for bi-directional control.







For the record, it takes ONE tank of contaminated fuel to plug a fuel filter.

That said, no, I don't change fuel filters at 15K. The filter on Dear Old Dad's '98 Monte Carlo was probably original when I changed it last summer. (<40K miles.) It might be that I changed it in 2008 or 2010-ish; I flushed brake fluid, changed trans fluid, coolant flush, and did some other maintenance on it--but I don't have a strong recollection of that. Anyway, when I pulled it off and tipped the fuel out the inlet fitting, there was a bunch of rust particles that came out--but the engine didn't run any better afterward, and the filter didn't seem plugged at all, just a little bit restricted. I had to cut the tubes to remove the filter on my new-to-me 97 K2500. Original filter at 165K? No idea. Same deal--poured out the gas through the inlet fitting, and there was a circle of rusty fuel on the ground when I finished. The filter wasn't plugged, though. Got one tube unscrewed from the filter, had to make a second one; and then spliced the sections back into the rest of the plumbing along with a new filter and some anti-seize on the threads.

By comparison, a friend of mine was bitching about "vapor lock" on his '77 snowplow truck for about a year. (350, Q-Jet) Eventually, the truck would run like **** or stall after running about four minutes. Changed fuel pumps, still had "vapor lock". Wrapped the fuel tubing with aluminum foil as a "heat shield", still had vapor lock. I kept telling him that four minutes wasn't enough heat to produce "vapor lock". He drove the truck to my shop (20 mph, wouldn't go any faster, stalled and wouldn't re-start a mile away--had to be towed the last mile.) The tiny filter behind the inlet nut of the Q-jet was plugged so bad nothing could get through.

 

[thegawd]

haha right on! I also have my original pump in it. I had to replace the sending unit though. that's actually what went wrong, it burnt a wire off the sending unit. I initially replaced the pump with a Delphi, that was actually garbage out of the box but I never knew it until it quits 18 months later, and put the old ac delco pump back in. haha its still in there but I have a spectra pump on standby. (I know hit or miss but this one had perfect reviews and spectra is a Canadian company)

 

[Nilocsemliw]

I have zero experience with Actron scan tools. If there's no bi-directional capacity, pass on it. And verify before purchase that it's going to interface with everything you need it to--Engine, trans, ABS, air bags, instrument cluster, etc.

I've used the Snap-On to activate the AIR system diverter, and to test the "limp-home" mode on my '88 K1500 via the bi-directional controls.

The newer vehicles have stepper-motors that swing the needles of the gauges in the instrument cluster. The Snap-On will interface with the instrument cluster of my '03 Trailblazer; very helpful for finding popped stepper motors--just command the gauges from 0 to 100% of the meter reading. The gauges that don't swing the needles have failed. (and the dash lights that don't light up via scan tool command have similarly failed.) I can control the idle speed of the Trailblazer using the Snap-On, to assure that the IAC is working.

Remember that the Snappy is old; mine takes forever to boot when first plugged in--which is my main impetus for getting a newer tool. And the whole capability of the tool revolves around the software cartridge, you HAVE to have a suitable cartridge for whatever you're working on.

The computer system used on the vehicle is more limiting than the capabilities of the '2500 scan tool. Newer vehicles give more information, and more options for bi-directional control.







For the record, it takes ONE tank of contaminated fuel to plug a fuel filter.

That said, no, I don't change fuel filters at 15K. The filter on Dear Old Dad's '98 Monte Carlo was probably original when I changed it last summer. (<40K miles.) It might be that I changed it in 2008 or 2010-ish; I flushed brake fluid, changed trans fluid, coolant flush, and did some other maintenance on it--but I don't have a strong recollection of that. Anyway, when I pulled it off and tipped the fuel out the inlet fitting, there was a bunch of rust particles that came out--but the engine didn't run any better afterward, and the filter didn't seem plugged at all, just a little bit restricted. I had to cut the tubes to remove the filter on my new-to-me 97 K2500. Original filter at 165K? No idea. Same deal--poured out the gas through the inlet fitting, and there was a circle of rusty fuel on the ground when I finished. The filter wasn't plugged, though. Got one tube unscrewed from the filter, had to make a second one; and then spliced the sections back into the rest of the plumbing along with a new filter and some anti-seize on the threads.

By comparison, a friend of mine was bitching about "vapor lock" on his '77 snowplow truck for about a year. (350, Q-Jet) Eventually, the truck would run like **** or stall after running about four minutes. Changed fuel pumps, still had "vapor lock". Wrapped the fuel tubing with aluminum foil as a "heat shield", still had vapor lock. I kept telling him that four minutes wasn't enough heat to produce "vapor lock". He drove the truck to my shop (20 mph, wouldn't go any faster, stalled and wouldn't re-start a mile away--had to be towed the last mile.) The tiny filter behind the inlet nut of the Q-jet was plugged so bad nothing could get through.

haha right on! I also have my original pump in it. I had to replace the sending unit though. that's actually what went wrong, it burnt a wire off the sending unit. I initially replaced the pump with a Delphi, that was actually garbage out of the box but I never knew it until it quits 18 months later, and put the old ac delco pump back in. haha its still in there but I have a spectra pump on standby. (I know hit or miss but this one had perfect reviews and spectra is a Canadian company)

perfect! I was just curuous as on an obd2 you can read the fuel trims but I wanted to know how to do it without a scanner.

sounds like you know more than I do.

when you choose a scanner can you post the link? I'm interested in picking up a more professional one as well.

I ended up getting this one which is like new and has all the cartridges and adapters up to 1998. I was able to get it for $250.

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[alpinecrick]

I bought my 88 5.7L in 2002. Other than 1 brake job, a water pump, and oil changes (of course), I didn't change anything else until I blew a head gasket in 2018. That was the 1st time I changed the fuel filter, suction sock and upgraded to an EP381 along with all the other stuff . So, I went 16 years between fuel filter changes and there was nothing wrong with my pump and sock either

This was all in CA and AZ - low humidity, no freezing/thawing crap. Nothing but Top Tier gas. I guess it all depends on conditions and quality of what you stick down there

There has to be more to it than that.

I had a 91 LD K2500 that I took meticulous care of for the first 150k. Life got in the way and I forgot about the fuel filter. Fuel pump went out. Replaced it with a cheap parts store pump. It died 8-9 months later. Warrantied it. That one died a few months after installation.

Went to the dealership and asked the parts manager (who was a good acquaintance of mine) what the snarf was I doing wrong?
He told me four things:
--If a vehicle comes in with a plugged or partially plugged fuel pump, they note on the invoice that the fuel pump should be replaced because within 4-8 months the vehicle was almost always back with a burned up fuel pump.
--AC Delco only.
--They learned their lesson about cross referencing AC Delco pumps into other brands of vehicles. If a Dodge came in they went to the Dodge dealer and bought the correct Mopar pump, etc.
--Change the fuel filter every 15k regardless of the stated service interval.

Take the GMT fuel filter with 15k (or more) on it and blow the gas out then blow through it Now blow through a new fuel filter. Feel the difference in resistance? That's what burns up a fuel pump. And the longer one lets the fuel filter go, the more resistance.

Top Tier gas probably extends the life of a lot of components.

I bought my 97 K1500 (currently 166k) from that parts manager. And other than changing fluids and filters Often & Frequently, a 4 hi mod, Big Three mod, front brake pads, and replacing the intake gasket, it is all original.

Full disclosure: The steering is getting loose--time for new steering parts and alignment.

My 96 G1500, 02 G1500, and 96 K1500, all have Delphi pumps in them with about 50k-75k on each pump. My problem with the Delphi is it's so quiet its hard to tell if it's running........

 

[thegawd]

the delphi I had was pulsing on and off straight out of the box and got progressively worse... if I had a FP gauge I could have seen that. it got so bad 18 months late that it was eventually acting like a switch was being turned on and off... and out of warranty.

thanks for sharing your point of view.

Al

 

[alpinecrick]

I just hope you didn't jinx my Delphis..........

 

[alpinecrick]

As an added note, when I replaced my fuel pumps I replaced the entire assembly. I have been told a couple times, once by the GMC dealership, just replacing the pump it seemed not to last as long. Why I can't imagine. That was a decade ago, maybe things have changed.