350 gets close to stalling when stopping

[Nilocsemliw]

I second the brake booster. This gave out on me and made a loud long whoosh sound before the engine stalled. It’s a pretty easy replacement.

I tested my brake booster and it does not have a vacuum leak. Is there another common leak I should look for?

 

[Schurkey]

I have seen that your go to is always a scan tool. Which one do you recommend?

I bought a Snap-On MTG2500. The MT2500 is more common, and less expensive on eBay. Mind you, this tool was ancient when I bought it in 2004-ish. I keep telling myself I should upgrade to something newer, but I don't actually do it. My software cartridges work from '80 1/2 to 2006 for domestic vehicles.

If I were buying a tool tomorrow, I'd be looking at buying something used in the the Snap-On "Solus" family--Solus, Solus Pro, Solus Ultra, Solus Edge. They may have another newer one now--I've kinda lost track. There's hundreds, maybe thousands of Solus scan tools and accessories on eBay.

In addition to the tool, you want to have software installed on it new enough for any vehicle you plan to use it on. The newest vehicle I own is a 2003; so software that goes to '06 works fine for me...so far.

You'd also need adapter cables to suit whatever you plan to work on. There's the very-common "OBD II" connector, plus a large number of adapter "keys"; but the older, "OBD I" stuff has a different connector for each brand of car, and some brands have more than one. GM alone has three OBD I connectors, but only two are popular.

The OTC Genysis and Pegysis tools are competitive with Snappy; the GM dealerships use Tech 2 tools which are enormously expensive and hard-to-find, so naturally the Communists are counterfeiting them by the thousands and selling online. I've used the prehistoric OTC Monitor 2000 and Monitor 4000, but the Snap-On '2500 series made those obsolete in the 1980s.

There's also computer-software "scan tools" you could load onto a laptop, and then buy the vehicle harness adapter separately.

There's low-budget "consumer-grade" tools available online or from local parts stores. Many of them are crappy "code readers", not actual scan tools. And some of the ones that do give you access to the data stream, only talk to the engine computer, but not ABS, transmission, air bags, instrument cluster, etc. the way a professional-grade tool would. When it was my money, I bought an older, used "professional-grade" tool, rather than a brand-new "consumer-grade" tool.

 

[Nilocsemliw]

I bought a Snap-On MTG2500. The MT2500 is more common, and less expensive on eBay. Mind you, this tool was ancient when I bought it in 2004-ish. I keep telling myself I should upgrade to something newer, but I don't actually do it. My software cartridges work from '80 1/2 to 2006 for domestic vehicles.

If I were buying a tool tomorrow, I'd be looking at buying something used in the the Snap-On "Solus" family--Solus, Solus Pro, Solus Ultra, Solus Edge. They may have another newer one now--I've kinda lost track. There's hundreds, maybe thousands of Solus scan tools and accessories on eBay.

In addition to the tool, you want to have software installed on it new enough for any vehicle you plan to use it on. The newest vehicle I own is a 2003; so software that goes to '06 works fine for me...so far.

You'd also need adapter cables to suit whatever you plan to work on. There's the very-common "OBD II" connector, plus a large number of adapter "keys"; but the older, "OBD I" stuff has a different connector for each brand of car, and some brands have more than one. GM alone has three OBD I connectors, but only two are popular.

The OTC Genysis and Pegysis tools are competitive with Snappy; the GM dealerships use Tech 2 tools which are enormously expensive and hard-to-find, so naturally the Communists are counterfeiting them by the thousands and selling online. I've used the prehistoric OTC Monitor 2000 and Monitor 4000, but the Snap-On '2500 series made those obsolete in the 1980s.

There's also computer-software "scan tools" you could load onto a laptop, and then buy the vehicle harness adapter separately.

There's low-budget "consumer-grade" tools available online or from local parts stores. Many of them are crappy "code readers", not actual scan tools. And some of the ones that do give you access to the data stream, only talk to the engine computer, but not ABS, transmission, air bags, instrument cluster, etc. the way a professional-grade tool would. When it was my money, I bought an older, used "professional-grade" tool, rather than a brand-new "consumer-grade" tool.

Thank you for you amazing and detailed reply. After hours of research and a lack of sleep I am stuck between a actron cp9690 for $200 or a MT2500 with the domestic cards and Asian imports cards up to 1999 with adapters for ~$275. I understand that “the brick” is bidirectional which is a big win. I just can’t seem to pull the trigger knowing that the actron would basically be plug and play. It looks like the MT2500 would be the best to go with for OBD0 and OBD1.

Is there a reason the actron would be a bad buy for the wider model year coverage? What are the added benefits of having the snap on and bidirectional?

The Solus is a bit out of my shade tree hobby budget unfortunately.I am new to working on older trucks, but after this one I would like to get another.

 

[thegawd]

how did you test the brake booster? if you hear a hiss when pressing the brakes it is absolutely leaking into the cab.

so I'm a bit confused. what else could makea hissing noise when pressing the brakes. I can't think of anything.

Al

 

[man-a-fre]

I would go with the actron or bosch one over the mt2500 ,it will do newer cars also and no cartridges or keys to put in I have both the Actron and the mt2500 , go with the Actron it shows the same datastream readings the mt2500 does and works great for our trucks.My mt2500 has the 9.2 version programmable black cartriges so it goes to like 08 or so and I have the can 1b adapter. The actron I use most often it automatically recognizes the year and make so you dont have to put the vin in like you do on the mt2500.

 

[Nilocsemliw]

how did you test the brake booster? if you hear a hiss when pressing the brakes it is absolutely leaking into the cab.

so I'm a bit confused. what else could makea hissing noise when pressing the brakes. I can't think of anything.

Al

The hiss is always there not just when braking. After running the vehicle and pressing the brakes I can remove the vacuum booster check valve and it still has vacuum. If there’s a vacuum leak it is before it goes in the booster. I can also completely remove the check valve from the vacuum line and plug it and get the same beep/hiss. The check valve is still one way and the grommet is solid.

 

[thegawd]

perfect! I was just curuous as on an obd2 you can read the fuel trims but I wanted to know how to do it without a scanner.

sounds like you know more than I do.

when you choose a scanner can you post the link? I'm interested in picking up a more professional one as well.

 

[Nilocsemliw]

perfect! I was just curuous as on an obd2 you can read the fuel trims but I wanted to know how to do it without a scanner.

sounds like you know more than I do.

when you choose a scanner can you post the link? I'm interested in picking up a more professional one as well.

All I know I have learned on YouTube videos. I bet you know far more than I do I am still new to these trucks.

As far as the OBD1 scan tool I think both would be a good option for me, but I want to wait for a response from Schurkey. I’m kind of leaning towards the snap on, but it has to be worth the extra $75. The cartridges and accessories aren’t cheap if I need to buy more in the future.

 

[Nilocsemliw]

perfect! I was just curuous as on an obd2 you can read the fuel trims but I wanted to know how to do it without a scanner.

sounds like you know more than I do.

when you choose a scanner can you post the link? I'm interested in picking up a more professional one as well.

It could always still be the brake booster but that is not the source of the vacuum leak. When pressing the brakes the buzz does not change.

 

[thegawd]

true, I know mine was leaking for a while before it completely ruptured coming up to a stop sign. I did not know it was leaking though. after I replaced the booster my truck was acting like I just gave it a tune up.