1995 TBI to Carbureted 350

[great white]

He said he wants to remove "all the computer stuff".

Hard to run an electronic trans without it.

He also said it's all going "old school".

Hence my recommendation to swap out the entire drivetrain or buy something non computerized.....

 

[Michael D]

IMO, removing ALL of the computer wiring, sensors, and the whole shebang isn't a great idea. It's already in there, so just weed out the crap that isn't needed. It's not like the ecm is a little purple elephant under the hood that everyone tries to look past. It's in the firewall, with a few(after they've been weeded out) wires going to it. So leave it there. The 2 plusses, are that after doing what I mentioned earlier, the 4L60e will still work. And so will your factory gauges. No ecm..............no electronic trans(without an $800 stand alone box) and no factory gauges. It's a pretty simple decision really.

 

[Michael D]

Old school is definitely cool, but removing more than necessary........is un-necessary. lol

 

[great white]

Old school is definitely cool, but removing more than necessary........is un-necessary. lol

I was just answering his question as asked which was "old school" and "no computer stuff".

If i were to give my "opinion" it would be to stay with fuel injection....

If i were to follow "remove more than necessary is un-necessary" i would suggest he repair/hot rod the FI an call it a day.

I trained on carbs when I was in school for my ticket (crap that was a long time ago when i think about it!) as FI was one the horizon and hadn't really broken into mainstream at that time. Then I worked on it all as we transitioned from carbs to those gawd awful variable Venturi/computerised carbs to early FI attempts and finally throttle body/multiport. I actually feel fairly fortunate to have been in the shop when we all transitioned from carbs to FI. Gives you quite a perspective on it all...

But, FI wins hands down in each and every area you can think of. Easier to work on, easier to repair, easy to hot rod. As long as you have a basic understanding of it.

Heck, try getting another 20-40 hp out of a carb without dropping a bowl or cracking a gasket....

Not that i don't enjoy the double pumper on my windsor or the autolite on my 390 or even the downdrafts on my 750 interceptor.

A carb isn't a drop on proposition if you want to set it up properly. Sure, since its vacuum referenced you can drop it on and it will pretty much run put of the box as long as you're not grossly rich or lean. But if you want to squeeze the most out of it (mpg, hp, etc), you're going to e pulling plugs, swapping jets, tweaking linkages, setting fuel heights, matching accel pumps and power valves, etc.

Then if the weather changes or you run it at a different altitude it all has to be tweaked all over again.

Gawd help you if you go with one of the metering rod models out there....

Carbs have their place and can be made to run very well, it's just there are far better choices for daily driven or street vehicles these days. FI is far more "tune-able" and flexible than carbs could ever hope to be.

Its all about personal choice though; Carb and 4l80e is possible, but not without "computerization".....

Oh, chuck an adjustable fuel regulator to drop the in tank pump pressure down to around 2-3 psi on the parts pile also. Float needles get overwhelmed by much more than 4-5 psi and it will flood the bowls and the engine.

Cheers

 

[Chevy_Man_2012]

hey guys sorry its been awhile to answer some questions i have two of these trucks ones a 1993 and a 1995 dads is the 1993 with 270,000 some odd miles his motor is going out. burns oil back fires the whole 9. so I'm taking my motor out of the 1995 and dropping it in for him i wanna build soup mine up a little and all the stuff i wanna do will be so much easier with a carb on it i have ordered elderbrock heads stage 4 cam with hydraulic rollers and not to reveal to much and if any one knows how easy it is to make a 350 roar a 400 custom crank with pistons also i have matching solid axels front and back at 3.70 gears. and i go to college in milford nebraska where they are doing a lot of body work to the old girl. i want a project otherwise i would buy an old square body still might. I'm a truck *****. i will list my long lines of trucks starting at the newest
1995 chevy k1500 ext cab short box "black Knight"
1993 chevy k1500 ext cab short box "silver Bullet"
1995 dodge cummins reg cab long box 5 speed swap s&b cold air intake 4 inch down pipe to 5 inch stacks "big Red"
1983 ford ranger 2wd reg cab short box "dark horse"
1972 ford highboy (just a frame no me and dads father son project)
1971 ford highboy (donating the cummins out of the dodge and making a fummins)
1965 ford galaxie (dads project)
and last but not least 1946 chevy in line 6 (thinking rat rod...but right now lawn ornament)

see me and dad have tons of projects some easy and some hard he drives over the road heavy haul semi driver combines tractors all the way to military vehicles.
don't even get me started on semi projects haha.
but needless to say I'm a truck ****....haha
hope that answers some questions.

but yes i know its crazy to take out the computer stuff but I'm looking for a clean engine bay. no that doesn't mean everything in the firewall if i can't see it it stays mostly looking for a clean engine bay. but see i found a 700r4 absolutely love those transmissions it has a heavy duty tc in her already and professianly rebuilt with a stage 3 shift kit. 4wd haven't got the specs on the output gear to see if it will fit with the transfer. i knew transmissions would be a problem but like i stated before i have done the 5 speed swap on the cummins no problem and it was a 2wd tranny when i got her with bad syncros now its a mated nv4500 with billet shafts mated to a 241 DHD transfer case. i really would love to do a 5 speed in the chevy but i wanna just get it going.

next question...i would like to track my build should i just keep updating you guys here or make a project page?