1992 5.7 TBI crank, fuel and spark no start

[Schurkey]

Was running, stalled, won't re-start. Has fuel, won't start with starting fluid.

I'd be looking for fouled spark plugs, weak ignition coil, failed pickup coil. Maybe a faulty module. But since it's spraying fuel, the pickup coil and the module are likely OK. Not guaranteed...but likely. Test the coil with a spark tester. If it'll fire a spark tester calibrated for HEI, reliably, the coil is probably good. (May need to re-test the coil when it's fully-hot to be sure.) The distributor and ignition coil have been replaced, which--hopefully-means the pickup coil, module, cap, rotor, ignition coil, plug wires are in fact "good". In real life, they're all VERY questionable due to Communist Crap infesting the parts supply-chain.

Fouled plugs are a real possibility. Spark "to" the plugs doesn't make for a running engine. Spark across the plug gap is required. If the plugs are fouled, clean or replace them as needed, get the engine running, then connect a scan tool and verify all the sensors and outputs, especially MAP, TPS, and coolant temperature sensors. They have a major effect on the amount of fuel delivered. So, for example, the engine starts, the coolant temp sensor fails, the computer thinks the warming-up engine is now at -40 degrees, and dumps a shipload of fuel out the injectors. Plugs foul, engine stalls, won't re-start.

Now that the distributor has been "adjusted", you'll have to start from scratch as thinger2 describes.

Make sure the EGR is not stuck "on".

 

[phatphuck]

@thinger2 @Schurkey

Thanks boys. Will manually confirm TDC at cyl 1 next time I've got hands on it.

Coil and ignition "should" be good as it's all new. But again, they were parts-gunning it so is making troubleshooting even harder.

I was just reading EGR valve last night as well. Can that be ruled out as easily as just trying to turn it over again while disconnecting it? I know they're not good to run long term disconnected for sure.

 

[phatphuck]

Will confirm the plugs again myself as well. I asked about them first thing and he confirmed they were recent replacements and that they checked them while trying to troubleshoot it right after the dtall condition and they looked good.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

What brand/quality ignition parts were used? I've seen where the ICM failed out of the box or within a short period of time. I had a Spectra Premium distributor's ICM fail in ~2000 Miles. My Pertronics Flame Thrower coil did too. This may not be your issue but, I'm just throwing it out there. Does the owner still have the old parts?

 

[thinger2]

Was running, stalled, won't re-start. Has fuel, won't start with starting fluid.

I'd be looking for fouled spark plugs, weak ignition coil, failed pickup coil. Maybe a faulty module. But since it's spraying fuel, the pickup coil and the module are likely OK. Not guaranteed...but likely. Test the coil with a spark tester. If it'll fire a spark tester calibrated for HEI, reliably, the coil is probably good. (May need to re-test the coil when it's fully-hot to be sure.) The distributor and ignition coil have been replaced, which--hopefully-means the pickup coil, module, cap, rotor, ignition coil, plug wires are in fact "good". In real life, they're all VERY questionable due to Communist Crap infesting the parts supply-chain.

Fouled plugs are a real possibility. Spark "to" the plugs doesn't make for a running engine. Spark across the plug gap is required. If the plugs are fouled, clean or replace them as needed, get the engine running, then connect a scan tool and verify all the sensors and outputs, especially MAP, TPS, and coolant temperature sensors. They have a major effect on the amount of fuel delivered. So, for example, the engine starts, the coolant temp sensor fails, the computer thinks the warming-up engine is now at -40 degrees, and dumps a shipload of fuel out the injectors. Plugs foul, engine stalls, won't re-start.

Now that the distributor has been "adjusted", you'll have to start from scratch as thinger2 describes.

Make sure the EGR is not stuck "on".

And the crap parts are so bad these days that you need to inspect them before you install them.
I have a dist cap that is missing one contact.
It just doesnt have one.
I have a rotor that is cast so tall that it arcs on the upper 10 percent or so of the dist cap contacts and chews the carbon button up.
I have a chinese "billet" distributor for my olds 350 that isnt even round or straight.
I use it to plug the hole so mice dont get in.
This is why I always harp like some old lady about base timing and finding and verifying TDC.
You really need to eliminate the basic function and geometry of the engine as a cause first.
Dont bolt 500 bucks of parts on to an engine that has a broken valve spring.
And never ever believe anybody who tells you the "crate engine" story.
Somehow, every crate engine comes with a guy whos dog ate all of the reciepts.
Yep, 3 grand lost all the reciepts.
Sent it to the machine shop, had it bored and line honed and balanced and put new pistons in and hand massaged the rings untill they glowed like diamonds.
Spent 6 grand on it!
But they just lost all of the proof in some tragic accident.
Plus, a crate engine just means that several chimps took a maybe sketchy short block and stuffed it in over a period of 6 months and 62 cases of beer and then farted around with it trying to get it too run.
Usually by twisting the distributor around while cranking the **** out of it and blowing a whole case of carb cleaner down the intake.
The whole crate motor thing is not a positive reason to spend more money.
It is a negative.
The farther you get away from stock, the more chimpanzees who have worked on it.
It really does end up being this feedback loop where you think its all good because the hard part has been done so the rest of it will be cake right?
Nope, you just bought a rat hole money sucking end to end failure that has been screwed with from front to back.

So it wont start. How about we unbolt the distributor and twist it around for awhile while you crank on it.
Nope. how about we yank off a bunch of vacuum lines and plug them with golf tees or maybe just leave them loose?
Nope.
Well I cant get it to start but the drivers power window doesnt work so lets pull the door panel.
That didnt work but this truck doesnt have any tail lights.
How about we pull the tail lights apart and fix those?
And that is exactly how you end up with a slapped together tweaker truck.
Low miles! Crate engine!
Needs some minor electrical work.
Rabid ferrits ate the title but you can easily apply to the DMV to get it in your name!
********.
If seems sketchy, it is sketchy.
If you are selling a brand new engine?
Proove it.
Wheres the paper?
Only a dope or a scammer cant show you the reciepts for thousands of dollars
Either way, you do not want to have anything to do with people like that.
The car world is a damn fine group of people.
But it also attracts some bottom dwelling scum.
For the money, for the politics, for the just look at me and how awesome I am.
No paper? No money.
That thousands of claimed rebuild might just be a few cans of spray paint.
That short block might have been put together with a hammer and a breaker bar.
By chimps.
And, keep in mind.
It aint for sale cheap because its a cherry creampuff.
Its for sale because its a barely useable *********** and they need to off it to somebody else.

 

[Schurkey]

Wow, thinger2. I'd say you have a bad attitude, but it pretty-much matches mine.

I may be damaged goods, but this web site said "I'm Awesome" for awhile, so I keep coming back. (Now it just says I'm supporting my member.)

 

[Frank Enstein]

And the crap parts are so bad these days that you need to inspect them before you install them.
I have a dist cap that is missing one contact.
It just doesnt have one.
I have a rotor that is cast so tall that it arcs on the upper 10 percent or so of the dist cap contacts and chews the carbon button up.
I have a chinese "billet" distributor for my olds 350 that isnt even round or straight.
I use it to plug the hole so mice dont get in.
This is why I always harp like some old lady about base timing and finding and verifying TDC.
You really need to eliminate the basic function and geometry of the engine as a cause first.
Dont bolt 500 bucks of parts on to an engine that has a broken valve spring.
And never ever believe anybody who tells you the "crate engine" story.
Somehow, every crate engine comes with a guy whos dog ate all of the reciepts.
Yep, 3 grand lost all the reciepts.
Sent it to the machine shop, had it bored and line honed and balanced and put new pistons in and hand massaged the rings untill they glowed like diamonds.
Spent 6 grand on it!
But they just lost all of the proof in some tragic accident.
Plus, a crate engine just means that several chimps took a maybe sketchy short block and stuffed it in over a period of 6 months and 62 cases of beer and then farted around with it trying to get it too run.
Usually by twisting the distributor around while cranking the **** out of it and blowing a whole case of carb cleaner down the intake.
The whole crate motor thing is not a positive reason to spend more money.
It is a negative.
The farther you get away from stock, the more chimpanzees who have worked on it.
It really does end up being this feedback loop where you think its all good because the hard part has been done so the rest of it will be cake right?
Nope, you just bought a rat hole money sucking end to end failure that has been screwed with from front to back.

So it wont start. How about we unbolt the distributor and twist it around for awhile while you crank on it.
Nope. how about we yank off a bunch of vacuum lines and plug them with golf tees or maybe just leave them loose?
Nope.
Well I cant get it to start but the drivers power window doesnt work so lets pull the door panel.
That didnt work but this truck doesnt have any tail lights.
How about we pull the tail lights apart and fix those?
And that is exactly how you end up with a slapped together tweaker truck.
Low miles! Crate engine!
Needs some minor electrical work.
Rabid ferrits ate the title but you can easily apply to the DMV to get it in your name!
********.
If seems sketchy, it is sketchy.
If you are selling a brand new engine?
Proove it.
Wheres the paper?
Only a dope or a scammer cant show you the reciepts for thousands of dollars
Either way, you do not want to have anything to do with people like that.
The car world is a damn fine group of people.
But it also attracts some bottom dwelling scum.
For the money, for the politics, for the just look at me and how awesome I am.
No paper? No money.
That thousands of claimed rebuild might just be a few cans of spray paint.
That short block might have been put together with a hammer and a breaker bar.
By chimps.
And, keep in mind.
It aint for sale cheap because its a cherry creampuff.
Its for sale because its a barely useable *********** and they need to off it to somebody else.

Hey now! Take it easy on the chimps! They're Waaaayyy smarter than the goofuses? goofusi? Whatever, that worked on Frank before me!

 

[Frank Enstein]

Make sure that you are at cylinder on the compression stroke. At TDC #1 and #6 are at the top.
I like to pull the valve cover on the driver's side to confirm I'm at the correct TDC for #1 to fire.
This also gives access to half of the valves so you can check that the adjustment isn't all wonky.

Sometimes "bumping" the engine over with the starter happens too fast and it might be beyond TDC by the time the crank stops.
You should be able to rotate the engine slowly with the alternator nut and a ratchet.

As far as a TDC feeler goes you can't go wrong with a soda straw from McDonald's. Can't scratch anything and there are 436 of them behind the seat anyway.

 

[92GMCK2500]

 

[dave s]

I'm on board with timing and checking plugs. If you verify spark and used starting fluid and still no fire I'd check plugs for sure. Then go to timing. Only time I ever had something not start on starting fluid and I definitely had spark had fouled out plugs.