1991 C1500 in Florida

[FullBlowncustoms]

Personally I would NOT roll the fenders on a nice truck like yours, set it up correctly with correct offset wheels.

 

[FLGS400]

Thanks for the compliments and input!

I'm pretty sure the McGaughy's spindles don't widen the track width. I may have to call them on that. My plan is to get the front spindles, springs, shocks, and 20's on it and see where I'm at with the fenders and control arms. I don't think you can roll the rear fenders, since they're fiberglass. Just like the front, I'll see where I'm at with it, when the rims & tires get here.

I'll try to keep this thread up to date with the findings.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

I don't think you can roll the rear fenders, since they're fiberglass.

They are actually SMC, not fiberglass. I owned my truck for almost 3 decades thinking they were fiberglass as well.
And there is definitely no rolling them, it's cutting the lip off. And that's why I didn't go wide with my rear wheel/tire combo.

 

[FLGS400]

Thanks for that bit of information!

Yeah, I didn't go with a staggered wheel and tire combo for that same reason.

 

[FLGS400]

Well, last night I started in on the truck. My plan was to remove the rear bump stops and replace them with some really short Energy Suspension ones. Then test the fit of the new wheels & tires. When I got the back up in the air, I started to look at some of the future issues that would come up from installing a cnotch, and giving it some suspension travel.

First, the rear brake hose and steel brake lines had to be moved around so they weren't higher than the top of the differential. Easy enough, I just reversed the little bracket and gently rebent the brake lines to match the new location. I just took the differential vent hose and zip tied it to the parking brake cable, for now. The rubber brake hose is really beat up from hitting the left tail pipe. I'm going to replace it when doing the cnotch.

The exhaust is going to be a problem, too. The left tail pipe runs right over the top of the differential. I may have to cut the tail pipes off altogether, or make some big modifications to them both, to move them around. It looks like this exhaust has been on there for a long time (probably long before it was lowered). Shame as I really like the sound of it (3" glass-pack into 2-each, 2.25" tail pipes out the back). After I cut down the bed brace that is over the differential, I may go a little farther on the left side, so the tail pipe can be tucked up higher, too.

The new bump stops did not arrive from the jungle site yesterday, so I left it jacked up with no rear bump stops, for the night. Hopefully I can get back to it tonight. Next time I'll take some pictures...

 

[Drunkcanuk]

Well, last night I started in on the truck. My plan was to remove the rear bump stops and replace them with some really short Energy Suspension ones. Then test the fit of the new wheels & tires. When I got the back up in the air, I started to look at some of the future issues that would come up from installing a cnotch, and giving it some suspension travel.

First, the rear brake hose and steel brake lines had to be moved around so they weren't higher than the top of the differential. Easy enough, I just revered the little bracket and gently rebent the brake lines to match the new location. I just took the differential vent hose and zip tied it to the parking brake cable, for now. The rubber brake hose is really beat up from hitting the left tail pipe. I'm going to replace it when doing the cnotch.

The exhaust is going to be a problem, too. The left tail pipe runs right over the top of the differential. I may have to cut the tail pipes off altogether, or make some big modifications to them both, to move them around. It looks like this exhaust has been on there for a long time (probably long before it was lowered). Shame as I really like the sound of it (3" glass-pack into 2-each, 2.25" tail pipes out the back). After I cut down the bed brace that is over the differential, I may go a little farther on the left side, so the tail pipe can be tucked up higher, too.

The new bump stops did not arrive from the jungle site yesterday, so I left it jacked up with no rear bump stops, for the night. Hopefully I can get back to it tonight. Next time I'll take some pictures...

Have a good look at the bed brace above the notch. Most likely you will have to notch it as well for the bed to sit flush down on the frame.

 

[FLGS400]

Here is a picture of the brake line modification I did the other night:

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[FLGS400]

Last night I put the little bump stops in the back and gained about 1.75" of suspension travel. I also put the new KYB shocks on the back.

You must be registered for see images attach

I had a lot of time today to work on it. I'd been pondered modifying the tail pipes, since I shut the garage down last night. Today I decided that the tail pipes had to go. At some point in the future, I'll just replace the whole exhaust system. Picked up some turn-downs and clamps from O'Reilley and cut the pipes off, just a few inches before where they connected to the 3" to 2.25"X2 splitter. One of the factory hangers is welded to the split pipe, and I wanted to keep that. Here's what it looks like now (pay no attention to the leaky pinion seal... LOL):

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It was Loud before with the tail pipes. Now it's super loud...

After that, I cut down the really long U-bolts, so I could get a deep socket on the nuts. Really glad I decided to check the torque on those nuts. They were pretty loose. So much so that I ran them up another 1/8" or more with the impact, then torqued them all to the requisite 81 ft/lbs.

Then I test fit the new rear wheels and tires. Perfect fit without and cutting!

Next came the front. I had purchased the same really short Energy Suspension bump stops for the front, but they were too short. So, I just cut about 1.5" off the stock rubber ones. Seems to have worked well, and I now have about 1.75 inches of travel in the front. I think tomorrow, I'm going to cut another 1/2-3/4" off of each one, for a bit more travel. I ordered new KYB shocks for it today (Dakota application). Test fit the new wheels and I think I'm going to be good here too, with no trimming or cutting needed. Here is what it looked like tonight, before I closed up the garage:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Ridler 20 X 8.5 607's with 0 offset, with 245/45R20 Coopers on all 4 corners. Looks way better in my opinion!

 

[95burban]

Looks good. You will prob still need a c notch.

 

[FullBlowncustoms]

Last night I put the little bump stops in the back and gained about 1.75" of suspension travel. I also put the new KYB shocks on the back.

You must be registered for see images attach

I had a lot of time today to work on it. I'd been pondered modifying the tail pipes, since I shut the garage down last night. Today I decided that the tail pipes had to go. At some point in the future, I'll just replace the whole exhaust system. Picked up some turn-downs and clamps from O'Reilley and cut the pipes off, just a few inches before where they connected to the 3" to 2.25"X2 splitter. One of the factory hangers is welded to the split pipe, and I wanted to keep that. Here's what it looks like now (pay no attention to the leaky pinion seal... LOL):

You must be registered for see images attach

It was Loud before with the tail pipes. Now it's super loud...

After that, I cut down the really long U-bolts, so I could get a deep socket on the nuts. Really glad I decided to check the torque on those nuts. They were pretty loose. So much so that I ran them up another 1/8" or more with the impact, then torqued them all to the requisite 81 ft/lbs.

Then I test fit the new rear wheels and tires. Perfect fit without and cutting!

Next came the front. I had purchased the same really short Energy Suspension bump stops for the front, but they were too short. So, I just cut about 1.5" off the stock rubber ones. Seems to have worked well, and I now have about 1.75 inches of travel in the front. I think tomorrow, I'm going to cut another 1/2-3/4" off of each one, for a bit more travel. I ordered new KYB shocks for it today (Dakota application). Test fit the new wheels and I think I'm going to be good here too, with no trimming or cutting needed. Here is what it looked like tonight, before I closed up the garage:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Ridler 20 X 8.5 607's with 0 offset, with 245/45R20 Coopers on all 4 corners. Looks way better in my opinion!

Those pipes stop at the rear axle? Fumes and heat hitting it?