14 bolt leaking stupid ORW!

[Sparkysikes]

So 5 months ago I had off road warehouse rebuild my rear axle and re-gear to 3.73.

Now my pinion is leaking my expensive synthetic gear oil. They want $400 plus just to fix the leak and $550 if the yoke is bad and that's why according to them it's leaking now.

How hard is it to actually replace the pinion seal?

Replace the yoke and seal?

Is it worth the money?

I have enough skill to do a auto conversion and replace my motor etc. I just don't know how big a headache it is.

 

[Sparkysikes]

Wow so you tube to the rescue again. The seal and yoke are easy enough to replace. How ever I noticed they call out looking for wobble on the pinion bearing. Is there anything else I need to look out for.

If I replace the yoke do I place the new yoke in. Similar alignment to the old one? Ie horizontal to horizontal and count threads?

I plan to tackle this weekend so any advice would be nice

 

[skylark]

The problem is that if you are either over or under tightened you'll mess you your pinion depth. I've had success with this method if the yoke measures the same.

I mark the pinion, nut, yoke and socket that I use for removal. I use hand tools to remove the nut so I can count the number of turns to remove the nut. I mark the new yoke and align it the same as the old one and line it up on the pinion. I count the number of turns and stop when everything is lined up.

 

[Supercharged111]

The problem is that if you are either over or under tightened you'll mess you your pinion depth. I've had success with this method if the yoke measures the same.

I mark the pinion, nut, yoke and socket that I use for removal. I use hand tools to remove the nut so I can count the number of turns to remove the nut. I mark the new yoke and align it the same as the old one and line it up on the pinion. I count the number of turns and stop when everything is lined up.

I think I'll give this a try, been living with leaky pinion seals for years out of fear of screwing up on the crush sleeve. Otherwise the method in my mind the pig was coming out and I was going to measure breakaway torque for the pinion and retorque to match that on reassembly.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

So 5 months ago I had off road warehouse rebuild my rear axle and re-gear to 3.73.

Now my pinion is leaking my expensive synthetic gear oil. They want $400 plus just to fix the leak and $550 if the yoke is bad and that's why according to them it's leaking now.

Did the shop use a crush sleeve or the eliminator kit? I like the kit better, if you over tighten the pinion nut you can reset it. With the crush sleeve you need a new one.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-55048

Once you get your yoke tightened

back down you should recheck preload with an inch/lb beam torque wrench. If your nut isn't tight up against the crush sleeve your rear end will howl and/or dynamite. Here's a manual on how everything should be set and a picture of how it should be done (note; at the time I took this picture I didn't have the adapters to go from 1/4" - 1/2" drive for the pinion nut socket, LOL)

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

This was with the carrier out for initial set up. Maybe you can check load with the torque wrench before disassembly and then after?

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

There are all kinds of crazy internet methods to "re torque" the pinion nut. 99% of them are black magic voodoo BS that may or may not work. The correct way is to torque the nut to spec. The crush sleeve has already been crushed to where it needs to be, right? If you're on there with a torque wrench set correctly you are not going to crush it any further. People confuse the torque required to get the sleeve to crush with a need to hammer the piss out of the nut if it needs to come off again.

So pull the nut off and throw it away. Remove the yoke. Resist the urge to "tap" it off with a hammer, you can damage the outer pinion bearing and race that way, use a puller. Replace the seal. Clean the yoke splines and apply a thin coat of black ATV on the splines. Not a lot you're just trying to stop seepage coming up the splines. Install a new nut and torque it to spec. Some guys use lock tight, some don't. That's your call. I generally do.

That's all assuming you don't have any play in pinion shaft before you get going, no noise or other concerns other than the leaking seal. If you need the torque spec give me the year and model and I can get it for you. I've been doing this a long time, 30+ years, factory trained ASE master tech and I've done hundreds of pinion seals without an issue. Do it once and do it right.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

Did the shop use a crush sleeve or the eliminator kit? I like the kit better, if you over tighten the pinion nut you can reset it. With the crush sleeve you need a new one.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-55048

Once you get your yoke tightened

back down you should recheck preload with an inch/lb beam torque wrench. If your nut isn't tight up against the crush sleeve your rear end will howl and/or dynamite. Here's a manual on how everything should be set and a picture of how it should be done (note; at the time I took this picture I didn't have the adapters to go from 1/4" - 1/2" drive for the pinion nut socket, LOL)

You must be registered for see images attach

You can't check pre-load with the rear end assembled, it has to be checked without the carrier installed.

 

[Sparkysikes]

Ok so with this insomnia going crazy last night I did a legit 2-3 hours of reading and you tubing. Everything said check for yoke play and pinion play. So before I went to work this morning I grabbed the assembly and nothing moved even slightly. But what I thought was from the pinion seal is from the image. I hope to black rtv the.bolt.and maybe seal her up? If I have to remove this section to reseal it is this major? Also great info here. I feel much better if. I have to attack these in the future and I hope this helps others out.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

IMO, Clean it up really well and run it on jack stands so you can try and see where it's leaking from. Obviously watch the spinning parts we don't want to hear about any injuries.