10" rear drop issues

[214martin]

so yesterday i finally did the flip kit on my truck 1990 gmc sierra c1500 rcsb 4.3L tbi. today on my way to work i realized something squeaks ALOT in the back and it smells like brakes from the passenger rear wheel. This side also seems to be higher and my bed is shifted to the driver side, it sticks out next to my door. What could've caused this? oh its a dim flip kit, bell tech shackles and hangers, underbed step notch.

 

[sewlow]

How did you go about getting the 10" drop?
That would definitely require the bed crossmember to be notched! A lot!
If that wasn't done, that brake line 'T' on top of the rear housing would be pinched between the housing & the crossmember, which would,
1. be the possible source of the noise.
2. cause probs with the brake system. I.E. Pinched line.
3. wouldn't allow the box to sit down properly on the frame.
4. 10" is way more drop than what the DJM notch was designed for, so you could/would/probably have the frame sitting right on the rear end axle tubes. A 10" drop would require an actual bridge design in the frame & some hefty 'relieving' of the box floor.

 

[214martin]

the middle bed cross member is completely removed, the step notch end on the bed so i guess that is the cross member? it has a welded step notch done not the djm c notch.

 

[214martin]

You must be registered for see images attach

this is how the bed sits

 

[Old77]

Welp....there's your squeaky must notch bed floor or move bed floor up. as for the brake smell i bet sewlow is correct in a pinched line

 

[214martin]

Welp....there's your squeaky must notch bed floor or move bed floor up. as for the brake smell i bet sewlow is correct in a pinched line

but it didn't squeak before i dropped it? and it was the same, my flip kit just moved my axle up right? the chassis and bed weren't moved or do they move also? and the squeaky ONLY comes from the passenger side

 

[sewlow]

I would think that even with that box crossmember removed, that would still not give you enough clearance for a 10" drop.
Got a pic of the top of the rear-end pumpkin/box clearance?
That notch is really close to the bed floor. Boxes do move around somewhat with the flexing of the frame. Did you remove or do anything else to the box when you did the drop?

*edit* You answered the 'Q' about moving the bed while I was composing!

 

[dagen_1]

according to the pic above, it doesn't look like a 10" drop to me either. a flip kit alone is only 6"

 

[thz71]

I've had a 2wd for less than 24 hrs and I can even tell that's not a 10 inch drop

 

[sewlow]

To get a 10" drop would require the flip (6") + shackles (2") & hangers (2").
Or...either de-arched springs, lowering springs, or some springs removed to get the same result as the shackles & hangers.
That's why I was asking about how that 10" was achieved.
At 10" would any of you guys know if there would be probs with wheel/wheel well clearances, particularly at the top of the w.well?

DeWayne's truck sig pic is probably pretty close to 10". Notice where his wheel wells are. Those are damn close to the bed rails. If your truck has definitely been dropped 10", I'd think that a stock floored truck would have almost no room at the top of the wheel wells when not moving. Throw in some suspension movement when rolling, well then...

My black truck (sig) has a 7" drop. That's about as far as I can go with a static drop, without starting to do some slicing & dicing, as in raising the stock floor, or cutting & welding in a bridge cover in the stock floor, plus a real bridge (like your's) as opposed to just a notch.