Rear leaf spring shackle OEM?

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95OBSMan

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1995 GMC RCSB 5.7 TBI 4L60E 10 bolt

I'm getting ready to do a 6" flip w/C-notch. The photo is from my truck, is that a OEM shackle?! I looked at the usual places for "stock" replacement shackles and there photos don't look like what I have, just wanting to know if I need to order shackles that are right, or will the ones currently on the truck work w/ the 6" flip kit?! Thanks for any info!
 

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Drunkcanuk

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1995 GMC RCSB 5.7 TBI 4L60E 10 bolt

I'm getting ready to do a 6" flip w/C-notch. The photo is from my truck, is that a OEM shackle?! I looked at the usual places for "stock" replacement shackles and there photos don't look like what I have, just wanting to know if I need to order shackles that are right, or will the ones currently on the truck work w/ the 6" flip kit?! Thanks for any info!
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Here is a picture of my stock 91 shackle and the replacement one from Moog.
I'm going to say yours are not stock.
 

95OBSMan

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Thanks Drunkcanuk!! Thats what I was thinking, funny how we sometimes don't see things like this, until we are getting into a "mod" change, I didn't catch this when I bought the truck last year, think its best I order up a set for it, like to have all related parts on hand when I get ready to drop the rear! Thanks for the included photos sir!!
 

sewlow

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The top of that shackles is almost touching the bed floor & the spring is in the top eye.
That makes it a 2" drop.
On a 4/6 drop, (stock shackles) the truck will still have a bit of a rake.
To ride level, these trucks need a 3" drop from front to rear.
That's why some guys drop their trucks 4/7, (moi) or 5/8.
Depends on which stance you prefer. But, if you want 4/6 you'll need some stock shackles.
There's a few members here that have recently either done a 2/4 (2" drop shackles + 2" drop hangars.) or are planning to do so.
They might be able to help you out with their originals.

My '98 @ 4/6.
Yea. Black truck. Black tires, & not exactly the best angle to see the rake.

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4/7.
This pic's no better but compare where the rear wheels sit inside the wheel well between the two, & you can see that with 4/7, the tops of the tires are up inside the well.
The uneven ground doesn't help to show, but on pavement the rockers are parallel to the ground.

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95OBSMan

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Sewlow, thanks for the explanation in reference to the shackles, thats helps me out a lot!

Your first photo w/ the 4/6 drop is a great looking stance, I can see the slight rake to it even with the all black going on and the second photo is again a killer stance, personnel preference, I like the 4/6 look for the slight rake look "old school" hot rod look.

This is how the truck sits as of now, 15x7 235/60 up front 15x8's 275/60 in the rear, I screwed up on the front tire size, I'll do the complete drop and see at that time how goofy the front looks and that will let me know as to what tire size to go with...
I'm not going to mess with hangers and shackles, I'm just going to install correct stock shackles and install the Tin works 6" rear flip kit w/ there weld in C-notch and I'm leaning towards the DJM UCA's with 3"LCA's with there 1"springs, there's a lot of front kits out there, but with me staying with a 15" wheel it narrows those options down, I really like the rally wheels...

Thanks again for the info and the photos, it really has helped me out!!! Thats a killer looking truck, just something about black shinny paint!!:cool:
 

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sewlow

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Uh-Oh. An opinionated novel...

I prefer a 2" drop spindle. Doesn't mess with any of the front end geometry. With those, the suspension is essentially still stock with the exception of the spindle being moved up 2".
...and a 2" drop spring.
This spreads the drop over 2 components equally.
Problem with that is, I just don't like aftermarket drop springs.
While the gauge of the drop spring looks heavier, in reality, all they do is mimic the OEM grampa's-soft-recliner ride. Not what's needed with a now somewhat limited suspension travel.
My preference is to cut the stock spring.
1 coil = 2" of drop.
Cutting the spring increases the spring rate.
Some will disagree with cutting springs.
But, customizers & HotRodders, from big budget 'Big Name' guys to minimal budget backyarders, have been doing so since the '40's when the first coil suspensions became common OEM, right up until today with no ill effects.
That being said, cutting more than 1 coil is not a good idea.

Lowering LCA's come with urethane bushings. That means the uppers should have urethane bushings installed as well.
Original OEM soft rubber upper bushings combined with stiff new urethane lowers is going to beat the cr*p outa the uppers due to their softer durometer.
They are also more than a bit of a PitA to install. I had to use (borrowed time) a mondo-HUGE press to get the one's in my truck's UCA's.

IMO, any single front end part that lowers 3" is a bit extreme for the suspension's design. Makes for difficultly with alignments. Funky handling characteristics.
If you're set on 3" drop control arms, a 3" drop UCA/LCA's combo will spread the drop over 2 components. 50/50 instead of all-in-one.
Besides spreading the drop over 2 components, an advantage with a UCA/LCA combo is that many of those are designed to move the the wheel one inch forward inside the well.
What this does is help to reduce, (eliminate?) that annoying tire rub at the bottom rear of the wheel well/firewall on hard suspension compressions or when tight turning over stuff like speed bumps or steep-ish driveways. Some parking lot entrances/exits.
Yup. A bit more $$$.
To get to 4", the expense of the uppers & lowers can be recouped via...cut springs.
To get down to 4" with the 3" drop UCA/LCA combo?
Cut 1/2 a coil
Now, the drop is spread out evenly, near equally, over several components, each with minimal geometric alteration from the OEM spec.
The UCA/LCA/.5 coil cut = 1.5"/1.5"/1"
As opposed to the drop LCA/short spring combo of 3"/1".
...and with a spring that's just, well...'adequate'.
Yea, the combo will LOOK good, but what's it going to be like to drive?
May have to deal with alignment specs that are close.
Close but no cigar. Good enough is not good.
Could be O.K. Could be a bit of a bear.
Could it be daily'd? Long distance driven? Comfortably, with confidence?
This is what happens with lowering methods that are somewhat out of the norm.
The not-so-common with questions attached as opposed to the tried-n-true with a proven history.

But like I said. My opinion.

Love the color-matched mirrors! Looks so good on these trucks while being so uncommon at the the same time.
 

Erik the Awful

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I'll second cutting stock springs over buying drop springs, with the caveat that I'd much rather cut new stock style springs than cut ragged out springs.

I'm looking at RockAuto, and about half the springs I'm seeing are progressive rate, which brings up another thought. The stock springs were constant rate, but with progressive rate, if you cut a coil off the tighter wound end you'll get less drop, but will make the spring stiffer. If you cut the looser wound end you'll get more drop, but the spring will be softer.
 
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