7.4 Vortec k2500 Exhaust Manifold/ Header Install

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Schurkey

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Driving around is what rusted them in the first place.

No harm in letting the hardware "marinade" in penetrating oil.

MAP-Pro may or may not get them hot enough to do some good. Keep in mind that some heat may allow the penetrant to soak-in, but heat makes steel weak--you don't want bolt shanks or studs to be hot when you remove them. Nuts can be warm, but not so warm that they distort or round-off.

"I" would heat the nuts 'til they glowed. When they've cooled enough that the penetrant you're spraying on isn't smoking, rattle 'em off with a six-point socket on an impact wrench. Use the shortest extension you can. The less there is between socket and impact, the better. A swivel socket can be a real blessing, as there's no side-force on the stud to break it.

Getting the studs out of the head would be somewhat similar--heat 'em til they glow, let 'em cool so that when you add your penetrant it isn't smoking. Turn 'em out at room temperature, possibly by locking two nuts together and then applying force to the inner nut to back the stud out. Be REALLY CAREFUL if you're applying side-force on the stud or bolt. Side force can cause the shank to break. Avoid side-force if possible.
 

Hogg

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3 heating and cooling cycles will loosen anything. IF you can get the heat where you need it. You are attempting to breakup the threads via dissimilar expansion rates. Heating the cylinder head by running first could be detrimental, rather than heating the stud leaving the head cool.

Always attempt to slightly tighten the fastener first. Just slightly.

Is it possible to cut off all the studs, remove manifold leaving nice exposed studs to heat and soak?

peace
Hog
 

Aparke4

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Great help here^

JBA headers come with all new hardware which means all studs have to be removed. I am going to take the advice of the three heat cycles and see if I can get some rose buds on the studs. If not, local exhaust shop near me has a oxy torch and is willing to look at it as well.

With nuts off, yes studs will be exposed and I got the nuts for each stud as well as a stud puller. Fingers crossed! Been soaking now for 5 days in a row and will start heating tomorrow with my yellow can torch.
 

81nascar

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The yellow can will get them to glow orange.. That will work.. As mentioned from the others while it cools I usually hit it with the oil since it will suck it in. On bolts or nuts I dont care about I just crank them off off when they are red hot. They come off pretty easy after a couple of heat cycles, Mostly nuts .. I'm sure you will have a battle with a couple of them, but with with oiling them as you did and use the heat it should work out.. With the heat cycles try do it with in a couple of hours of each other or less depending on the cool down and then take the studs off, not heat cycle then next day again.. I only had one break on mine. When on the engine stand I was impacting them off . All of them came out pretty easy except the one.. However I have had my fair share of problem fasteners.
 

Aparke4

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Thanks 81nascar!

Keep y'all updated on the progress. I will start heat cycle tonight.

FWIW: Bolts that came with JBA heads are in fact 3/8-16 x 1 inch long. I just got some stainless 3/8 washers to go against the flange to pair with the lock washers/ protect the ceramic coating and perhaps get a better sung fit with supplied gasket.
 

Aparke4

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Summit Racing Link for those interested in these headers for the big block Gen VI:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...h5ylRCykfslqtoQhguCc6PX1o6hlk9QhoCTQYQAvD_BwE

Headers, Cat4ward, Stainless Steel, Titanium Ceramic Coated, Chevy, GMC, 7.4L, 454, Pair

Increase your horsepower and torque with JBA Cat4ward headers! They are designed with 3/8 in. thick laser-cut flanges, mandrel-bent primary tubes, and feature JBA's patented Firecone merge collectors. They're available in either steel or 409 stainless steel and are offered in a chrome plated or high-temperature silver ceramic finish for most applications. JBA includes premium-quality mounting hardware and instructions for the installation and, unless otherwise noted, these headers are designed to fit the vehicle as it came from the manufacturer. This would include components such as cylinder heads, chassis, steering, motor mounts, body mounts, bushings, etc. If aftermarket components, parts from other applications, or custom-altered parts are used on your vehicle, it is the installer's responsibility to verify fitment.

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Supercharged111

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Sub'd for results, I've had my eye on these for some time. When I took my manifolds off earlier this year I broke nothing and reused most everything. I removed them to dig out an already broken off stud in the head. I sprayed them all 3 nights in a row and the next day sicked the impact on them with small spurts and they came right out. They were no better than yours.
 
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Aparke4

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Thanks for the feedback supercharged. That’s good to know plus this is a CA truck so I hoping that works in my favor too.

Just got done with heat cycles tonight before daylight ran out.
Quickly hit all hot hardware with pb blaster to “soak it in”. Map gas didn’t take long to get hardware red... pretty small nuts and studs to begin with.
 

Mangonesailor

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ARP studs are what I used for mine with a little dab of blue loctite to keep them still. My gibsons rubbed the head bolts on both sides so i had to use a die grinder and file for clearance. Just in case you run into the issue. I broke 0 studs using my oxy-fuel kit and i bought a smith's jewelers torch kit to heat the studs carefully. Kroil will flare up, just blow it out if it does. best of luck with map gas. Theres also a section of wiring harness on the passenger side firewall that I, unfortunately, found the hard way. didnt damage the wiring though. Take care in that area.

The EGR tube but can be a bear. I used VERY large knipex pliers (flat jaw) and crescent wrenches to loosen the nut. There's a GM part number 12556597 that'll give you a block-off part for the tube. OR, you can measure the OD of the tube, buy a couple ball bearing balls a little bigger, and put those in in-place of the tube. Your MPG will go down though. I think the nut size is 1-1/16 or 1-3/16, can't remember.

this is the rest of the notes on my header install. i cant find my order info from summit info so i dont know exactly which kit i used:

ARP Studs
245-1311
3/8-16 length .550" to .200 shoulder .800
100-1403

dei spark plug boot

Kroil, oxy acet torch, wax candle, fire extinguisher
Manifold stud nuts: 9/16 socket and wrench
Stud: 1/4" wrench
Collector: 15mm
Flange: 17mm nut.
Use caution or heat shield near rear of engine passenger side due to wiring harness. Drop downpipe first, then manifolds.
New ARP nuts 7/16 12pt.
 
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