88-98 Heavy Duty Headlight Harness Kit (NEW)

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95C1500

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Very well put, I will be getting one as soon as I have the money for it and HID's.
 

Horns

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Nvm... I hit quote instead of edit...
 

jrsavoie

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I'mm confused about the need for a 3rd relay to run the dims and brights together. Can't you just run a wire for the bright relay to the dim relay to activate it?
 

Mean Green

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I'mm confused about the need for a 3rd relay to run the dims and brights together. Can't you just run a wire for the bright relay to the dim relay to activate it?

The 3rd relay on the harness is used for the 4-high feature. 1 relay is dedicated to the low beams, 1 relay is dedicated to the high beams, and the 3rd one is dedicated to the 4-high. You could do the 4-high by running a jumper wire with diode between. However the way that these harness's are set up, having a 3rd relay for the 4-high allows for optimal performance and longevity! :handshake:
 

jrsavoie

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The 3rd relay on the harness is used for the 4-high feature. 1 relay is dedicated to the low beams, 1 relay is dedicated to the high beams, and the 3rd one is dedicated to the 4-high. You could do the 4-high by running a jumper wire with diode between. However the way that these harness's are set up, having a 3rd relay for the 4-high allows for optimal performance and longevity! :handshake:

Now i'm confused as to how running an extra wire from one relay to the other would have any effect on performance or longevity. How exactly does that third relay wire in?

The way I'm reading this, you can have low beam, high beam or 4 high with the 3 relay set-up. How do you switch that?

On our 96 K1500 6.5 diesel Suburban the headlights have been cleaned and polished. I believe there is a problem that has something to do with the alarm system that was on it and taken off in about 1999 or so.
The dims have always been dim - like the daytime running lights. And the daytime running lights do not work. We messed around and tried changing the board under the dash to no avail.

Any ideas what your kit will do for me? I'm assuming with your kit the dims will work as normal. I will have 4 headlight brigts and the running lights will still be inoperable.

I've never considered HID's. I'm not even for sure what they are. Is there anything different about a kit for HID's in case I ever decided to go that way with the dims?
Price? I went back 3 pages and still didn't find the price?
Thanks
 
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Mean Green

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Now i'm confused as to how running an extra wire from one relay to the other would have any effect on performance or longevity. How exactly does that third relay wire in?

The way I'm reading this, you can have low beam, high beam or 4 high with the 3 relay set-up. How do you switch that?

On our 96 K1500 6.5 diesel Suburban the headlights have been cleaned and polished. I believe there is a problem that has something to do with the alarm system that was on it and taken off in about 1999 or so.
The dims have always been dim - like the daytime running lights. And the daytime running lights do not work. We messed around and tried changing the board under the dash to no avail.

Any ideas what your kit will do for me? I'm assuming with your kit the dims will work as normal. I will have 4 headlight brigts and the running lights will still be inoperable.

I've never considered HID's. I'm not even for sure what they are. Is there anything different about a kit for HID's in case I ever decided to go that way with the dims?
Price? I went back 3 pages and still didn't find the price?
Thanks

The way the harness works is as follows: When you switch from your low beams to your high beams, the low beams will be kept on; thus called the 4-High feature. So whenever you have your high beams on, you will have all 4 headlights on(High beams AND low beams). If you did have DRL's (Day Time Running Lights), the harness will power your low beams (DRL's) at 100% (instead of 60% like on a functioning OEM Configuration) when the daytime running lights are on.

This may bring your DRL's (Daytime Running Lights) back to functioning properly, there have been quite a few trucks who's DRL's where not working and then they installed this harness and the DRL's then worked properly. You see with the harness installed, it takes very little voltage to trigger the relays (in turn taking the load off of your headlight switch) and the harness pulls it's power directly from the battery through 12AWG marine grade wire.

As for HID's, if you where at any point to install HID's; the harness is 100% built to power them. With this harness installed, you can run literally almost any lighting set up you'd like to (Whether it be HID's, halogens, etc). The harness's are built to handle any lighting set up with ease. This harness will provide your headlights with the full 13.8V+ to allow them to run at 100% intensity! If you would like more information in regards to HID's, you can read some commonly asked questions and answers here: How To Install HID's

For more information on the harness's (Price, specs, description, etc) you can check out the first page of this thread, or you can feel free to PM me or call anytime and I'll be more then happy to help answer any and all of your questions!
 

88GMCtruck

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I can't see a plus side to using a third relay. When you switch to high, you switch two relays (from low relay to high and 4hi low). I don't see the extra switching as beneficial in longevity. If you used a diode to signal the low relay to remain powered while the high relay powers, it wouldn't switch thus performing less movement and lasting longer.

Sent from my big block powered HTC gas guzzler.
 

Mean Green

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I can't see a plus side to using a third relay. When you switch to high, you switch two relays (from low relay to high and 4hi low). I don't see the extra switching as beneficial in longevity. If you used a diode to signal the low relay to remain powered while the high relay powers, it wouldn't switch thus performing less movement and lasting longer.

Sent from my big block powered HTC gas guzzler.

The longevity portion comes into play in the connection area more so then the actual switching of the relays. Basically if one of the diode's contacts in/on the signal wire(s) where to ever break or get damaged, you would loose the 4-high feature. Now with the 3rd relay, the connection is soldered and secured; thus giving a stronger more reliable (in terms of durability) option. The relays that are used in the harness's have a very very high life switch cycle, so in terms of switching; it's not really an issue. :handshake:
 
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