Bagged and bodied 99 c3500 build

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618 Syndicate

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Well, since you have a bit more experience with lowered duallies, I thought I would tag you on this. Maybe @modernbeat or @Onizukachan could chime in? Thanks guys!
Agreed, but there's a big difference between lowered and bagged in terms of suspension layout. I've had and have a bunch of lowered stuff, but this is my first bagged truck.
As I understand it, a 3 or 4 link will move the axle right or left as it travels up and down, but a 2 link doesn't.
 

Stumpy

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As I understand it, a 3 or 4 link will move the axle right or left as it travels up and down, but a 2 link doesn't.
Not necessarily. A 3 or 4 link doesn't induce side to side movement, but can allow it. A panhard bar does induce side to side movement, during up and down travel, as it goes through it's arc. That's why a lot of people like a watts link, it has next to no side to side movement.

Again, I'm no expert, but did stay at a Holiday Inn, and have messed with suspensions, and people that do, a lot.

Look at some rock crawlers. They run triangulated 4 links, where both upper, and lower bars are triangulated, in opposite directions. No panhard, track bar, or watts link, and the axles stay in line.
 

modernbeat

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You don't want to add a Watts or Panhard bar if you do a triangulated four-link. It will bind.

The "triangulated" part controls the lateral movement and keeps it centered. A panhard bar will also control the lateral movement and works in an arc. A Watts link also controls the lateral movement and works in a shallow S-curve.

Having two different lateral controls will cause real issues and either bind up or break parts.

If you desire a Panhard bar or Watts link you will want to use a 3-link or parallel 4-link.

FWIW, here's my Lotus 7 autocrosser with the rear bodywork off, showing the adjustable three link and horizontal Watts link under the axle giving it an ultra low roll center that was appropriate for those tires. It also had adjustable anti-squat.

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ROYALTYFORGE

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You don't want to add a Watts or Panhard bar if you do a triangulated four-link. It will bind.

The "triangulated" part controls the lateral movement and keeps it centered. A panhard bar will also control the lateral movement and works in an arc. A Watts link also controls the lateral movement and works in a shallow S-curve.

Having two different lateral controls will cause real issues and either bind up or break parts.

If you desire a Panhard bar or Watts link you will want to use a 3-link or parallel 4-link.

FWIW, here's my Lotus 7 autocrosser with the rear bodywork off, showing the adjustable three link and horizontal Watts link under the axle giving it an ultra low roll center that was appropriate for those tires. It also had adjustable anti-squat.

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So you are saying with my wishbone and lower link bars I shouldn't need to add any other linkage to keep the axle from moving laterally, correct? Even with the wishbone being the same length and running parallel to the two lower bars?
 

95burban

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Correct. My first bagged truck in 2003 was done that way. Chopped up a Pete and jakes 4 link and make the top a wish bone and ran bag over axle with 2800 lb firestones. I still have that back half and might put it on another truck, 20years no problems and prob close to 200k miles on it.
 

ROYALTYFORGE

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Correct. My first bagged truck in 2003 was done that way. Chopped up a Pete and jakes 4 link and make the top a wish bone and ran bag over axle with 2800 lb firestones. I still have that back half and might put it on another truck, 20years no problems and prob close to 200k miles on it.
Nice work, thanks for the input.
 

modernbeat

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So you are saying with my wishbone and lower link bars I shouldn't need to add any other linkage to keep the axle from moving laterally, correct? Even with the wishbone being the same length and running parallel to the two lower bars?
That is right. If you do a wishbone third link or triangulated four link then all you need are the links, no other lateral control.
 

ROYALTYFORGE

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That is right. If you do a wishbone third link or triangulated four link then all you need are the links, no other lateral control.
I appreciate your knowledge, thank you.
So behind the axle I am going to mount the bags cantilever style. In theory of the bag mount is solid and the pivot point is solid as long as where they meet the axle can "swing" it shouldn't effect the operation of the links in front if the axle, is that correct?

Photo of basic idea what I'm thinking
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Alteca

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I appreciate your knowledge, thank you.
So behind the axle I am going to mount the bags cantilever style. In theory of the bag mount is solid and the pivot point is solid as long as where they meet the axle can "swing" it shouldn't effect the operation of the links in front if the axle, is that correct?

Photo of basic idea what I'm thinking
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Correct
 

modernbeat

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I appreciate your knowledge, thank you.
So behind the axle I am going to mount the bags cantilever style. In theory of the bag mount is solid and the pivot point is solid as long as where they meet the axle can "swing" it shouldn't effect the operation of the links in front if the axle, is that correct?

Photo of basic idea what I'm thinking
Yep, those will work correctly. The vertical links isolate any control except for up and down. They don't force any lateral or longitudinal movement. If you skip those links you will have issues.
 
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