Solder vs crimps

[Hipster]

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this is what ford says to do a simple splice, for reference

heres a modern GM example of how you should handle wire repair for a seat harness (Airbag critical)

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about half the post(after this part) is dedicated to the propeer wrap and supporting the harness as to properly support the wiring and keep it trouble free for years.

Insurance co's don't have a problem replacing airbag wiring harness if they get damaged and can honestly say I've never repaired one as they'll pay for a harness replacement no problem. Nobody wants the liability of a late or failed deployment. Even per gm's instructions you posted they still want the crimp soldered. So what's that prove?

i have to question how old that information is, as that type of repair is not happening in bodyshops by trained personnel.

Any repair method can introduce resistance in a line which can affect airbag timing when dealing with SRS.

 

[alpinecrick]

Hipster is correct in pointing out soldered joints have less resistance than butt connectors—this can be important in low voltage applications.
It is also the strongest connection in my experience.

There are times when I can’t get my mini torch into spaces to produce a good soldered/ shrink tube joint so I use the heat shrink butt connectors because it doesn’t take much heat.

Using the correct size wire loom will help support the wire and joint regardless of method used.

I also have used the heat shrink butt connectors with solder, but it it seems there’s not very much solder in the ones I’ve tried.

 

[Hipster]

Hipster is correct in pointing out soldered joints have less resistance than butt connectors—this can be important in low voltage applications.
It is also the strongest connection in my experience.

There are times when I can’t get my mini torch into spaces to produce a good soldered/ shrink tube joint so I use the heat shrink butt connectors because it doesn’t take much heat.

Using the correct size wire loom will help to support the wire and joint.

I also have used the heat shrink butt connectors with solder, but it it seems there’s not very much solder in the ones I’ve tried.

Sometimes I tin my own. Mostly terminal ends and such. I buy the un-insulated ones and go from there.

Far less problems with a fused connection as opposed to a mechanical one but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do because it's the only way you can get it done.

 

[df2x4]

What are everyone's thoughts on stuff like this?

Solder Heat Shrink Connector

Basically there's solder built into the heat shrink tubing so the solder melts as the heat shrink does. It seems like the best of both worlds when you don't have enough space to crimp, not enough skill to solder (like me lol), and want to seal up the wires.

I keep a case of these around, I like them. Probably wouldn't use them on anything super critical but they're really handy for quick fixes.

A tip for using them... If you can't fit a torch or heat gun into the space where you're making the splice, a standard BIC cigarette lighter will do the trick as long as you keep the flame about an inch away.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

BTW, this is how to get an unbreakable solder joint, make the wires hold the strength and let the solder be the glue to just hold them in place

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That's an example of the "Western Union" splice

 

[454cid]

That's an example of the "Western Union" splice

I was looking at that last night, and the Western Union is for solid core wire, and seemed to be much more precisely done than what's pictured. I need to T into a wire, and found a method for that, but again it was for solid core.

 

[TechNova]

Im in the worst part of the rust belt and I have to fix crimp connections on a regular basis, even those fancy shrink wrap ones. I have never had to fix one of my solder/shrink wrap connections and rarely have to fix other peoples solder joints no matter how ugly they may be. I only have problems with the crimps, the ones that go bad are either under or over pinched. Its pretty tough to mess up a solder joint with a nice long shrink tube. The only solder connections I have to fix is when they dont get it hot enough to flow into the joint.

I agree, have had many trailers and fixed many others, no issues with soldered joints.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I was looking at that last night, and the Western Union is for solid core wire, and seemed to be much more precisely done than what's pictured. I need to T into a wire, and found a method for that, but again it was for solid core.

Yeah, we were taught it that way with cute little curly ques going around the apposing wire but, close enough. The same idea about using the strength of the wire to hold it together. That's why I said I'll do it even without solder plus, it works fine with stranded wire too when you strip about an inch of insulation, and make a tight twist. Without solder though, you can't pull too hard on the splice or it'll unravel unless heat shrunk or taped tight.

 

[Erin]

AND ESPECIALLY THESE!

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Don’t look at the lights on my boat trailer then

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

The way I learned to solder was to heat both ends and flow solder into them, then clamp them together with those roach clip thingys and then the actual fusing together is done. This was how our lab tech did it at the datacom startup I worked for.

The solder if done correctly is stronger than the wire.