Changed EVERYTHING, brake pedal still goes to the floor.

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Those calipers use a higher line pressure than the 02.
I'm not worried about the wrong calipers because even the rears won't lock up, with brand new factory rear brakes other than the drums themselves. I just switched the abs module from a 95 and redid all the bleeding and the pedal is way more firm now but if you slam the brakes it stops it just won't lock up. It takes a few seconds to actually stop. The abs kicks in and then the pedal goes to the floor. It seems like there's still air in the abs
 

Dubs

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I'm not worried about the wrong calipers because even the rears won't lock up, with brand new factory rear brakes other than the drums themselves. I just switched the abs module from a 95 and redid all the bleeding and the pedal is way more firm now but if you slam the brakes it stops it just won't lock up. It takes a few seconds to actually stop. The abs kicks in and then the pedal goes to the floor. It seems like there's still air in the abs

Could be or the o-ring blew out in the proportioning valve.
 
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Could be or the o-ring blew out in the proportioning valve.
Yeah but that's just the abs side of it, what's causing the brakes to still have a tad bit of sponginess that won't allow it to lock up. Everyone said the 3/4 ton calipers bite harder yeah tried that, and tried the 02 m/c. I put the old calipers back on and it does the same thing so it's not the calipers. I know they have a bigger piston and require more pressure but the old calipers would lock up if that were the case and they do the same thing as the 3/4 ton calipers. The 02 m/c has been the only improvement since all these problems started. With a different abs module I pulled out of a friend's 95 last night, the pedal is way more firm now than before but it's still not a strong braking power. I'm at the point where I'm about to rip the module out and put a wilwood adjustable in and bypass this stupid stuff.
 

Dubs

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Yeah but that's just the abs side of it, what's causing the brakes to still have a tad bit of sponginess that won't allow it to lock up. Everyone said the 3/4 ton calipers bite harder yeah tried that, and tried the 02 m/c. I put the old calipers back on and it does the same thing so it's not the calipers. I know they have a bigger piston and require more pressure but the old calipers would lock up if that were the case and they do the same thing as the 3/4 ton calipers. The 02 m/c has been the only improvement since all these problems started. With a different abs module I pulled out of a friend's 95 last night, the pedal is way more firm now than before but it's still not a strong braking power. I'm at the point where I'm about to rip the module out and put a wilwood adjustable in and bypass this stupid stuff.

The o-ring I'm talking about is not for abs. It's in the proportioning valve. There is a little piston in there that moves by pressure only. If its torn or cut it will act like what you are explaining. There is a brass nut on the end of the proportioning valve that you can undo and pull the piston out. When I did my rear disc swap I had to pull that piston out and take the o-ring off to get the correct pressure to front and rear. Maybe you need to do the same in this case? Just brain storming.
 
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The o-ring I'm talking about is not for abs. It's in the proportioning valve. There is a little piston in there that moves by pressure only. If its torn or cut it will act like what you are explaining. There is a brass nut on the end of the proportioning valve that you can undo and pull the piston out. When I did my rear disc swap I had to pull that piston out and take the o-ring off to get the correct pressure to front and rear. Maybe you need to do the same in this case? Just brain storming.
Proportioning valve where? There is none on this year truck. The lines go straight from the m/c to the abs module, then out the module straight to the wheels, as far as I know everyone says the proportioning valve is built into the abs module
 

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Does yours look like this attached

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