All around budget sound setup

[flyboy1294]

If you keep that sub, then yes, a new amp that is 1-ohm stable will be what you need to get. Look for a monoblock(class D or better), and make sure you look at it's rms(recommended/nominal) power rating, not it's max power.

Would I see an improvement from the 4ohm to the 2ohm though?

 

[MOBS]

The higher the ohms, the more work your amp has to do to power the subs, so the quieter they end up. You were talking about keeping the dvc-2 sub right? That sub can be wired to either show 4ohms, or 1ohm to the amp. So you'd need an amp that is stable enough to run on 1ohm of resistance.

 

[flyboy1294]

So would this one be something to look for? I believe it is class D and they claim it is stable at 1 ohm.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC...d|Kenwood&nvpair=FFBrand|Pioneer#overview-tab

 

[MOBS]

That amp is overkill but would allow you to upgrade your sub later. A 900 watt system would definitely get you noticed though, especially by the cops and crooks, lol.

You could also get 2 of the dvc-4 subs, wire them to 1ohm, then your amp would be a perfect match.

 

[T DOG]

I see, back to the original plan then.

What is the difference between these two subs? They both are Kicker CVR10's but look different and have a substantial cost difference.
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/3153205/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2061CVR104/Kicker-10CVR104.html?search=cvr10

Also, earlier in this thread I learned that the amp I linked would not support the 2 ohm sub to its potential. With that said, would I get a better sound if I got a stronger amp that could run the 2ohm sub, or am I fine with the 4ohm?

The second sub is just the newer version.

You want to match the sub to whatever impedance your amp is stable at. Some amps are stable @ 4 ohms, some are stable at 2 ohms, others are stable all the way down to 1 ohm.

Do your research before purchasing any equipment so that you don't damage your equipment and it runs as efficiently as possible.

It is also important to consider the extra strain your system is going to put on the charging system of your vehicle. Sure, you can get an amp that will run on 1 or 2 ohms and push more watts, but it is going to draw more current so you may need to do "The Big 3", add a capacitor, upgrade your alternator, or add another battery, or a combination of all of the above. It just depends on how big you want to go and how involved you want to get.

 

[MOBS]

Definitely upgrade your charging system, you need to increase the amount of unused power in these trucks for just about any system atall, whether you go with a higher output alt or another alt.

 

[draggin95niss]

the different ohm loads are for different wiring configurations is all, one is not better than the other...as for the 2 different subs, they are both current models, according to our kicker sales rep they are the same just the black ones go to certain dealers like crutchfield, best buy etc. the current setup u have narrowed down will give u great sound, just dont over think it, its just an amp and subs....that amp will put a stain on your charging system but nuthing that will warrant more than a capacitor...the big 3 always helps tho, it wont hurt nuthin....i work on these trucks all the time its not that big of a deal to add a sub amp....

 

[flyboy1294]

That amp is overkill but would allow you to upgrade your sub later. A 900 watt system would definitely get you noticed though, especially by the cops and crooks, lol.

You could also get 2 of the dvc-4 subs, wire them to 1ohm, then your amp would be a perfect match.

I am only really looking to run 1 sub at the moment is the thing. As far as being noticed, I am intentionally getting a downfiring sub and using stock speaker locations to try to make the system less noticeable to someone walking by looking in the windows. I do not feel like having my stuff jacked. It was my understanding that the CVR has dual voice coils, and that if each is at 2 ohms, if I wire them in parallel it will have an impedance of 1 ohm. Therefore, I needed an amp stable at 1 ohm. If anyone has any suggestions for an amp that is more appropriate for my application I'm all ears. The one I linked I can get for $149.00 factory refurbished, so I am pretty content with that price.

I'm glad I took that Electronics 101 class my freshman year . lol

The second sub is just the newer version.

You want to match the sub to whatever impedance your amp is stable at. Some amps are stable @ 4 ohms, some are stable at 2 ohms, others are stable all the way down to 1 ohm.

Do your research before purchasing any equipment so that you don't damage your equipment and it runs as efficiently as possible.

It is also important to consider the extra strain your system is going to put on the charging system of your vehicle. Sure, you can get an amp that will run on 1 or 2 ohms and push more watts, but it is going to draw more current so you may need to do "The Big 3", add a capacitor, upgrade your alternator, or add another battery, or a combination of all of the above. It just depends on how big you want to go and how involved you want to get.

Definitely upgrade your charging system, you need to increase the amount of unused power in these trucks for just about any system atall, whether you go with a higher output alt or another alt.

that amp will put a stain on your charging system but nuthing that will warrant more than a capacitor...the big 3 always helps tho, it wont hurt nuthin....i work on these trucks all the time its not that big of a deal to add a sub amp....

I believe it currently has the 105amp alternator in it. I replaced it several months ago, but I never made note of the size. Would the 145amp NBS alternator be enough? I have never looked into a capacitor before. Is it instead of a larger alt or does it work best in addition to the larger alt? I would rather not install a second battery if I can help it.

Thanks guys, you're being tremendous help. I appreciate it.

 

[T DOG]

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC5204/Kenwood-KAC-5204.html?tp=115

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http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/8587670/vpcsid/14258134/SFV/30046

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http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/1331944/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046

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Quick, easy, inexpensive, a minimal strain on your charging system.

 

[sewlow]

All a capacitor does is hold a charge, so that when you're crankin' the tunes & the sub is really working, the extra power required is pulled from the power retained in the cap, instead of the battery or alternator. Keeps your lights & other electronics in your vehicle from dimming or pulsating in time to the music.
On a system such as what you're looking at, it's not really required, if all the rest of your charging system is to to *****.
With 'The big three' upgrade, and a decent alternator & battery, in my truck, I'm running the main power directly from the battery, using 4ga wire, to a distribution block, & very short runs of 8ga from there to the 3 amps. Each amp is seperately grounded using 8ga.
About 1200watts, total. 1 10" dvc sub wired down to 2ohms. I've found that I have had no need for a cap. And I crank it up pretty good sometimes for long periods of time. (Road trip!)
Some guys that compete in sound-offs have looked at my set-up & said that I really should be running a cap. I guess that maybe I should, but every things worked fine for the 4 yrs. that I've had this sound system. I may add one if I kill something in it in the future.