All around budget sound setup

[badazzbulldog]

i have always used kenwood stuff ,but its all in what you want for the options on the deck

 

[flyboy1294]

i have always used kenwood stuff ,but its all in what you want for the options on the deck

What would be the difference in the 14 and 22 rms rating?

 

[Tyler09]

my truck has a kenwood headunit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KENWOOD-EXC...r_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers&hash=item35b62ff940

i LOVE it!! works perfect for iphones (whats in mine now) or any apple product charges it as well. not real fancy but it looks good and is super easy to work, plus had detailed setup for audio adjustments.

then on my speakers im doing 6.5" kicker DS series components ($80 on ebay) and 4x6 kicker DS series for the rear ($40 on ebay) there brand new and sound GOOD!

For subs you can do (2) 10" CVR's with a 500.1zx kicker mono amp. the subs run about $145 for a pair and the amp is around $200.

The box is on there as well. think i seen it was $150. For the dual 10's under the seat.

 

[ChrisAU]

I have always been a fan of Pioneer for Headunits. I have a AVIC X930BT in my 'Hoe (sickkk unit, but not possible in these trucks without out extensive dash mods), and a DEH3300UB I just put in the '92. I've had Kenwood, Alpine, JVC, etc, and over time have ended on Pioneer thanks to the intuitive mapping of the features and reliability.

As for a sub, get a single 10" under the seat box and 1 Kicker CVR 10. You will not be disappointed, they are by far the best bang for the buck, and I've had TONS of sub setups in multiple vehicles.

For amps, I've ended on Kenwood, and I've had tons of them. They are easily the most reliable I've had.

Don't skimp on wiring either though. An extra $20 or so for better wiring can make a bigger difference in the quality of your system than that amount of money in higher quality speakers.

 

[flyboy1294]

my truck has a kenwood headunit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KENWOOD-EXC...r_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers&hash=item35b62ff940

i LOVE it!! works perfect for iphones (whats in mine now) or any apple product charges it as well. not real fancy but it looks good and is super easy to work, plus had detailed setup for audio adjustments.

then on my speakers im doing 6.5" kicker DS series components ($80 on ebay) and 4x6 kicker DS series for the rear ($40 on ebay) there brand new and sound GOOD!

For subs you can do (2) 10" CVR's with a 500.1zx kicker mono amp. the subs run about $145 for a pair and the amp is around $200.

The box is on there as well. think i seen it was $150. For the dual 10's under the seat.

I like the setup you're talking about. The only thing is I do not want a dual sub box under my rear seat... I would like to keep my jack in place if possible.

I have always been a fan of Pioneer for Headunits. I have a AVIC X930BT in my 'Hoe (sickkk unit, but not possible in these trucks without out extensive dash mods), and a DEH3300UB I just put in the '92. I've had Kenwood, Alpine, JVC, etc, and over time have ended on Pioneer thanks to the intuitive mapping of the features and reliability.

As for a sub, get a single 10" under the seat box and 1 Kicker CVR 10. You will not be disappointed, they are by far the best bang for the buck, and I've had TONS of sub setups in multiple vehicles.

For amps, I've ended on Kenwood, and I've had tons of them. They are easily the most reliable I've had.

Don't skimp on wiring either though. An extra $20 or so for better wiring can make a bigger difference in the quality of your system than that amount of money in higher quality speakers.

How is the Pioneer 3300 treating you? That is similar to the 4300 that I was looking at.

If anyone has any idea what the different RMS ratings mean please feel free to chime in.

 

[ChrisAU]

Its great, all I wanted it for was the radio and USB input for my '92. It scans radio stations faster than my AVIC haha.

As for the RMS rating, that is how many watts are consistently amplified by the headunit per speaker in a 4 speaker set up. The difference between 14 and 22 is negligible.

If you are going to not do the rear speakers anyway, I would suggest bridging the wires coming from the headunit to the speakers to where you just have a left and right output, not front left, rear left, front right, rear right. That way you would have double the watts coming to your new front speakers and not have to worry about the old rear speakers sounding like crap.

 

[MOBS]

The cheapest setup you can go that will last you a while will run you around $500 minimum. This including front and rear speakers, head unit, wiring kit, amp, sub, and enclosure. This is based on costs for a good quality system, not the bottom of the bucket series offered by alot of middle-end companies(RF Prime is a good example).

My last budget build was in 1999 in a '67 tbird and from what I hear, it's still going today. Given it cost ~$670, that's still cheap for a system used daily going on 13yrs.

 

[Tyler09]

I like the setup you're talking about. The only thing is I do not want a dual sub box under my rear seat... I would like to keep my jack in place if possible.

theres also single boxes for them, and the subs are around $75-80 and a smaller amp would be $100-150.

im from oklahoma so i stay with kicker, theres headquarters are 30 mins away so anything i buy and breaks i can stroll on up there and exchange them or whatever...my friend blew his L5 he bought off a friend who bought it from a store and he went to Kicker and paid $100 and got a brand new L7.

 

[flyboy1294]

MOBS, I understand what you mean about spending a bit extra to get quality equipment... that will not be an issue for me. $500 is my budget. Give or take $100.

Ah thanks for clearing up the rms thing, ChrisAU.
I think I'll go ahead and get the Pioneer head unit. It seems a little bit nicer than the others in that same price range.

I'll get the box for myself as a Christmas present. Then by spring I should have a decent setup.

Right now, I think I'll get 6.5" or 5.25" speakers in the doors for certain. I would also like to do 1 10" sub under the back bench seat. That way I can still keep my jack in the right place. Would this provide decent bass? I would like to replace my rear speakers as well, but I have heard nightmare stories about the plastic breaking and whatnot, and I'm still apprehensive. How hard was it to install those 4x6's, Tyler09?

The only thing I'm still undecided about is the amp.

 

[MOBS]

To install the rear speakers, ya gotta remove the seat belt bolts, then pop the side panels off. 6.5" speakers will fit best in the doors, they seal against the door better than 5.25".