Windshield leak

[97c1500ext]

A few months back my windshield developed a severe leak and was popping away from the frame. You could actually see light between the body and the glass. Had it replaced, noticed they didnt properly clean the rust that these trucks are known for getting under the glass when they are replaced and not sealed right so i had the guy pull it, clean and paint and put a new one in. Seemed fine for a few months but after a particularly snowy and icy week i noticed the water stains on the headliner are worse. Is there anything else that could be leaking that i should check before I take it back for a third new glass?

 

[Caman96]

While it’s removed it seems like a serious inspection of the “cleaned and painted” areas is needed. Maybe a more qualified inspection and installer is also needed.

 

[97c1500ext]

While it’s removed it seems like a serious inspection of the “cleaned and painted” areas is needed. Maybe a more qualified inspection and installer is also needed.

That's the idea i got after the first time but i didn't want to pay again and i think he would do the third one free as well. The guy who did the cleaning and painting after the second was the same guy who painted the entire truck which i was mostly happy with for the price i paid.

These trucks aren't too common around my area and many shops outright refuse to work on it so its not the easiest to find another guy.

I personally looked over the cleaned and painted area before the glass went in and it look good so im inclined to blame the installer who does not work directly for the body shop that did the paint.

I tried to explain how the gap between the glass and the top of the opening needed to be filled with sealant as that's what I've seen people say gets neglected and leads to water being trapped under the rim of the glass but i don't think he understood as they just shoved the glass itself as far up as it would go.

I really don't want to pay safelite 400$ for a new glass especially since they outright refused to do it the first time due to the minor rust but i suppose if that's what it takes i must. Finding another body shop in my area has been difficult as they either do "real" classics or insurance jobs almost exclusively.

 

[Caman96]

I really don't want to pay safelite 400$ for a new glass

I guess it all depends on what you feel what the value of your truck is. It’s like a house, arguably the most important part is the roof, if it leaks, it’s only a matter of time. Water always wins.
The same guy has failed to repair it twice. If you’re having to suggest advice to him, what does that say? I would hope he knew more than me.

 

[man-a-fre]

Getting people to do things right is getting harder by the day, Urethane and primer cost use sparingly, Time is money rush rush rush not counting all the glass nowdays is wavy like a funhouse. It isn't like it used to be where they would treat your truck like it was theirs. Not trying to be negative but stateing a fact in my area.

 

[97c1500ext]

I guess it all depends on what you feel what the value of your truck is. It’s like a house, arguably the most important part is the roof, if it leaks, it’s only a matter of time. Water always wins.
The same guy has failed to repair it twice. If you’re having to suggest advice to him, what does that say? I would hope he knew more than me.

You make a solid argument. Im sold on safelite at this point with a lifetime warranty. Thanks

 

[someotherguy]

If any of the area where sealant is applied has been repainted (as you've mentioned) then the paint has to be done properly (surface prepped correctly) or the urethane can pop it right off the metal and you'll have a leak again. A quickie job won't cut it.

Richard

 

[Insert Quarter]

3M instructions say to only use 2K Epoxy Primer, NO paint, for large area repairs of the pinch weld. Step 8 in the 3M Urethane Windshield Adhesive TDS. Also follow the TDS for whatever 2K epoxy you use. Personally I use SprayMax 3680033 and it seems to work well on a properly cleaned and prepped surface.