Which LED?

[df2x4]

Gotcha. I'm sure they're OK, but they look like kind of the same deal as the Sylvanias. Which is to say quite a bit of money for not a lot of brightness. They do have more total LEDs than the ZEVOs though.

 

[98chevy2500SS]

98chevy,
Have those Antline bulbs been reliable for you?

Yes they were, I only ran the bulbs for about a year in my 98 when I was running the clear incandescent style tail lights. I have Antline's amber 1157's for both of my trucks and my dad's dually. 2-3 years now, no problems with them.

Thank you to all three of you. Didn't know to match bulb color to lens.

I'm looking at the Phillips bulbs on RA 'cause I'm ordering some other parts. Are the Phillips good bulbs? I have seen the results of guys installing "off brand" cheap bulbs in the past and want to stay away from that.

No problem! I have used Phillips and Sylvania 194 bulbs and they are one of the best, imo. Not a fan of Sylvania's backwards facing LED design though on their bigger bulbs, maybe Phillips adopted this design too, I'm not sure. If so, I'd stay away from that design.

Do you have a link to the specific ones you're talking about? In my experience it's less about the brand and more about the overall construction and design. Some of the more expensive options (Sylvania ZEVO for example) are actually worse than many of the cheap Chinese options IMO.

I agree on the ZEVO bulbs, I had tried some white 3157s for my reverse lights on my 98 back in 2017 and the output was subpar. I had bought some Luyed 1700 lumen bulbs with the projector style cap on it and the output was amazing.

 

[someotherguy]

If they don't specifically say CK or SRCK then avoid 'em. Superbright knows the difference and the ones they offer will say if they are CK or SRCK type.

I'd go with whoever you can find that offers the best warranty for the price; as much as the sales hype is that LED's last much longer than incandescent bulbs, it's just not true. Trust me. I've installed a LOT of automotive LED's. The LED devices themselves rarely fail unless voltage goes way out of range, but the assembly will fail. They get hot, solder joints go bad, and they're so tightly packed you can't get to it to fix 'em.

Richard

 

[frito-bandito]

If they don't specifically say CK or SRCK then avoid 'em. Superbright knows the difference and the ones they offer will say if they are CK or SRCK type.

I'd go with whoever you can find that offers the best warranty for the price; as much as the sales hype is that LED's last much longer than incandescent bulbs, it's just not true. Trust me. I've installed a LOT of automotive LED's. The LED devices themselves rarely fail unless voltage goes way out of range, but the assembly will fail. They get hot, solder joints go bad, and they're so tightly packed you can't get to it to fix 'em.

Richard

Excuse my ignorance, but what is CK and SRCK?

 

[alpinecrick]

If they don't specifically say CK or SRCK then avoid 'em. Superbright knows the difference and the ones they offer will say if they are CK or SRCK type.

I'd go with whoever you can find that offers the best warranty for the price; as much as the sales hype is that LED's last much longer than incandescent bulbs, it's just not true. Trust me. I've installed a LOT of automotive LED's. The LED devices themselves rarely fail unless voltage goes way out of range, but the assembly will fail. They get hot, solder joints go bad, and they're so tightly packed you can't get to it to fix 'em.

Richard

Thanks for the info Richard,

What do you think of these? Or do you like the Antline from Amazon better?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8935604&cc=1051120&jsn=35797

 

[df2x4]

Excuse my ignorance, but what is CK and SRCK?

CK/SRCK means that the ground terminals are on the same side of the socket. Standard sockets have them on opposite sides. Like so:

You must be registered for see images

 

[someotherguy]

Thanks for the info Richard,

What do you think of these? Or do you like the Antline from Amazon better?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8935604&cc=1051120&jsn=35797

Really everything you see out there is Chinese crap and it's going to fail sooner than you'd like; that's just the honest truth. Literally just this morning I swapped out a pair of alleged DRL-compatible LED's in my SS because the ones I got lasted only a year before croaking.

So, look for the ones claiming the highest wattage - it'll be a false claim; their math is usually from adding up all the devices on the assembly; and the best warranty. OR, if the warranty sucks, at least the LED's should be inexpensive, because you will end up replacing them.

Autolumination used to have a separate warranty you could pay for but I dunno if they do that anymore. I've also bought LED's from V-LED's, SuperbrightLED's, DDMTuning and of course off Amazon... and the usual parts house stuff that totally sucks (Pilot, for example.)

Those Philips LED's on RA don't look like a very bright design. The biggest immediate issue I find with many LED replacements is they simply aren't bright enough. Additionally, those Philips don't appear to be SRCK compatible, so you wouldn't be able to use them, not in the middle socket, anyway.

Richard

 

[df2x4]

SBLEDs also has these, which are SRCK compatible and should be reasonably bright. Not cheap, though.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...unction-27-smd-led-tower-wedge-retrofit/3557/