Weird question about a bypass filter

[oniontheoreo]

Weird question, but is there a way to hook up a bypass filter to a 97 5.7 vortec? I assume it's way to overkill for an engine like that.

 

[Schurkey]

Bypass OIL filter?

I have one on my 5.7L TBI, and the 454 on my boat. Frantz brand, made by SKY in Stockton CA. Long since out-of-business. The manufacture of those filters has gone through several owners since then; I've only bought replacement O-rings and such from the new owners. I get my bypass filters used from sellers on eBay. Amsoil also sells bypass filters, as do various other manufacturers. Again, I have zero experience with anything by the SKY-manufactured Frantz ass-wipe oil filters.

Hardest part is getting a suitable return fitting so that the oil can re-enter the engine somewhere. The supply side is easy--a street tee, or regular tee plus short nipple at the back of the engine near the distributor will work (as will any other oil pressure port.) OEM oil pressure sending unit in one open hole, the supply hose for the filter in the other. I insist on steel-braid-over-Teflon (PTFE) hose using taper-seal fittings, but most folks use plain ol' rubber hose suitable for higher pressure than the oil system produces, and barbed fittings.

Boat filter installation: right side oil hose goes rearward to pressure port near the full-flow oil filter, left-side oil hose goes down to threaded port in Marine oil pan.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[GoToGuy]

Bypass what ? For what purpose?

 

[RDF1]

I've thought about trying a bypass but not sure you will ever see a cost return. They claim it cleans the oil better and gives you longer oil life.

 

[Spareparts]

My buddy's dad had a Franz filter on a Toyota motor home with 230K.
I was there one day when they were changing the oil and filters. I remember he had about 4k since the last change.
The old oil still looked new. The Franz filter used toilet paper roll for the filter medium. When it was taken out, it was totally black from all the junk a normal oil filter can't filter out.
If i owned anything worth putting one on, I would do it without hesitation.

 

[Vikingdude]

Just change the oil. Bypass makes sense on tractor trailers, when your engine takes 15 gallons. Our trucks... not so much.

 

[Road Trip]

My buddy's dad had a Franz filter on a Toyota motor home with 230K.
I was there one day when they were changing the oil and filters. I remember he had about 4k since the last change.
The old oil still looked new. The Franz filter used toilet paper roll for the filter medium. When it was taken out, it was totally black from all the junk a normal oil filter can't filter out.
If i owned anything worth putting one on, I would do it without hesitation.

Back in the late '70s I had a '73 german Capri (aka: Mercury Capri in the states)
that had a tired 2600 V6/4-speed in it. It was fun/sporty stock, but I wanted
to keep up with my buddies and their malaise-era 2-bbl SBF & SBC V8s.

In a KCMO treasure yard I ended up sourcing a better '74 2800 V6
(with the cylinder heads featuring 3 separate exhaust ports) for a rebuild. I also
scratched the performance itch & bought some long tube headers, Offenhauser
dual port/dual plane intake, Holley 390 cfm 4bbl, higher lift cam, etc.

After spending the equivalent of a winter's worth of my meager $4/hr paychecks on the
rebuilding/machining of the heads & engine, followed by adding on all the go-faster
kebobs, I was looking to do anything I could to preserve my parts investment with the
best oiling setup that could be pieced together. This is where a buddy's dad demonstrated
a Frantz oil filter's performance on a little test stand where he started with clean oil, mixed
in some artist's carbon black, then ran the test stand awhile until the oil was clear again.
(Sold!)

I ended up mounting this filter ahead of the radiator to a removable metal cover that forced
all the incoming air to travel from the grill & through the radiator. The new motor had a great
ring seal, for between that and the Frantz filter, the conventional oil would darken from the temps,
but at the same time remain see-through clear.

After reading a bunch of magazine articles, I decided to try Mobil 1. Now this new-fangled
synthetic oil impressed my '70s sensibilities by staying the same color instead of darkening, and
yet also remain clear despite accumulating hard, hot miles. Cleanest oil I've ever run, despite this
powerplant being exercised enthusiastically, thanks to being forced to run against my buddy's
much larger but not that much hotter small block V8s. (Note: Senseless beauty/performance
art created with the assistance of this warmed over powerplant. OOPS!)

And it was also a solid lifter setup, so whenever I pulled the valve covers to check the
lash it was spotless inside. For someone who no doubt puzzled over engine lubrication way
more than necessary, I was one very happy camper.

****

One more quick Frantz story. Years later we had a solvent-based parts washer where the
(kerosene + ATF? diesel + ATF mix? I don't remember) just seemed to get filthy fast and stay that
way. I ended up buying a NOS Frantz filter & plumbed it into the parts washer, and this seemed
to make a big improvement. (ie: At least the solvent no longer felt gritty out of the nozzle.)

At the time I didn't have the chance to refine the initial install to the point where we could really
clear up the solvent visually, but if anywhere this would seem be be as good a place as any to get your
ROI on this additional level of filtration.

Just another data point FWIW. Yours for max lubricity/least FOD in your engine oil.

Cheers --

 

[Schurkey]

Bypass what ? For what purpose?

OEM oil filters are "full flow" design. ALL the oil that comes out of the oil pump goes through a filter. The filter has to flow well enough that it doesn't starve the engine. Therefore, it's a fairly coarse filter. Better than no filter at all...but not intended to remove fine debris.

A Bypass filter is a partial-flow design. Only a small percentage of the total oil flow in the engine goes through the Bypass filter--but what does go through is filtered to an extremely fine degree. Essentially removes ALL the grit, including particles as small as what's in cigarette smoke.

I've thought about trying a bypass but not sure you will ever see a cost return. They claim it cleans the oil better and gives you longer oil life.

Just change the oil. Bypass makes sense on tractor trailers, when your engine takes 15 gallons. Our trucks... not so much.

I'm paying $60--$90 for those SKY Frantz filters, plus some hose and brass fittings. Oil change intervals are dramatically extended. They'll pay for themselves even on 5-quart systems IF (big IF) you can stand to leave the oil in the engine until it actually NEEDS to be changed. Most folks can't, based on psychology and marketing. The just get squeamish at the oil change intervals allowed by keeping the oil clean with a bypass filter. There's also the additional engine life as a bonus.

I was looking to do anything I could to preserve my parts investment with the
best oiling setup that could be pieced together. This is where a buddy's dad demonstrated a Frantz oil filter's performance...

...I ended up mounting this filter ahead of the radiator... ...Cleanest oil I've ever run... ...whenever I pulled the valve covers to check the lash it was spotless inside.

Yup. Those bypass filters--Frantz and other brands including Amsoil--do a marvelous job of removing grit of nearly any size.

And IF the filter element becomes plugged...you still have the full-flow filter doing it's job. Assuming you change the full-flow filter on a reasonable schedule, the engine never has worse filtering than what the OEM intended.

I don't change the bypass filter element until the housing no longer gets hot when the engine runs. If the housing is hot...there's hot oil flowing through it, getting filtered.

One more quick Frantz story. Years later we had a solvent-based parts washer where the (kerosene? diesel + ATF mix? I don't remember) just seemed to get filthy fast and stay that way. I ended up buying a NOS Frantz filter & plumbed it into the parts washer, and this seemed to make a big improvement. (ie: At least the solvent no longer felt gritty out of the nozzle.)

Yup. First Frantz went on the boat. My second Frantz filter is on my solvent tank. The third was installed on the '88 K1500. There's no grit coming out of the solvent-tank nozzle, but the solvent is still dark and ugly because the Frantz filter is not going to remove LIQUID mixed-in with the solvent--trans fluid, used engine oil, paint thinner, brake fluid, gear lube, etc.



Bypass oil filters are very recommended. NEW, they're maybe $350 or so, and depending on which one you buy, there may be some significant cost to the replacement elements (which don't need to be changed often.) The ass-wipe oil filters use a roll of cheap one-ply, thousand-sheet toilet paper; four rolls for six dollars, maybe less. And I can't tell you how long four rolls are good for, 'cause I've not used three replacement rolls in the whole time I've had a Frantz filter on any of my vehicles.

 

[Road Trip]

Bypass OIL filter?

...Hardest part is getting a suitable return fitting so that the oil can re-enter the engine somewhere.

...to threaded port in Marine oil pan.

I remember reading the installation directions suggesting the oil pan return, but I was fearful of
creating a hard-to-fix oil leak if my installation implementation didn't go perfectly. Instead, I
remember that the oil fill for that engine was mounted on a 2" tall tube on one of the valve covers.

I decided to install the return fitting in that tube, which in turn allowed me to visually verify the oil
flow from the filter simply by removing the oil fill cap while the engine was running. No leaks, no drama,
easy to visually check, all good.

If I get to give the L29 in the chore truck a refresh I think I'd add one more Frantz to my lifetime list.
And I was so satisfied with how the original install went all those years ago I've already picked out
my return spot as shown by the arrow next to the big block's oil fill tube:

You must be registered for see images attach

I liked the woven stainless on your boat installation, don't see why I wouldn't implement the same right in the front
for all to see. Would certainly be a conversation starter at the local cars & coffee. Especially showing off the clean oil on
the (2500 grit polished to a mirror finish) dipstick. Senseless beauty...it's all about the presentation. :0)

Note: I wouldn't bring it up or point it out...but if a fellow enthusiast has a keen eye and asks what's up
with that, then I'll cheerfully give them the grand tour.

Fun stuff.

 

[Blue Max]

Yes I have used both the Franz and the Amsoil unit. Franz only draw back is in a highly humid environment it seemed to capture condensation and make butterscotch pudding in the top of the element. The amsoil unit is alot more $$. Replace filters too. I did the oil analysis thing for 85K miles and then changed the oil. Not sure the costs vs value but keeping the oil clean has to be a good thing for the moving parts. Still have both and will be installing the AMSoil unit on the new stroker next month. 2C is worth 2C's and every one has an opinion.