Vortec V8 Distributor

[Gearheadmike]

Can the dist in a vortec v8 5.0-5.7 be set in off 1 tooth and still run or will it instantly throw a cel?

 

[NightRunner]

I think it'll still run, just not the best. May take it awhile before it throws a CEL. Are you experiencing any misfires? How does the truck act?

 

[Gearheadmike]

Back story truck is a 96 2wd 5.7 new jegs engine new billet dist new upgraded mpfi inj assembly. New fuel pump and tank. It’s still on its 500 mi brake in period. new
reman starte and new battery. It cranks good cold but after driving it cranks hard. Like the older v8’s do when timing is out. But I’m getting no cel and light does work. It’s also running 200-210 temp not sure why I got new radiator/water pump/fan clutch good. But maybe temp is causing starter to heat soak? Idk btw it’s got a 180 t stat and ecm was tuned to 180 and cat delete/egr delete.

 

[kennythewelder]

It is easy to check. Put the crank on #1 TDC on the compression stroke. Pull the distributor cap, and see where the rotor is pointing. It should be pointing at #1 plug wire tang. Its rite in the corner where the distributor has a rounded point.

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[east302]

Try holding the gas to the floor when it’s warm and won’t start. This puts it into clear flood mode, temporarily stopping injector flow. If this works, I might suspect the Engine coolant temperature sensor which is by the thermostat. It may be flaky and reporting the wrong temperature causing the VCM to call for too much fuel. A better way to rule out that part is with a scanner, seeing if the sensor is reporting some oddball temperature.

That sensor, by the way, is a better indicator than the dash gauge since it is the value used by the computer. The dash gauge may not be that accurate, in other words.

 

[big_mike]

From everything I have read it Doesn't matter if you get it in perfect on TDC it'll still need to be set thru the pcm to get the timing back to factory. You can get pretty damn close but on the vortec 96+ it's a computer adjustment once you stab it correctly.

 

[Gearheadmike]

Ill check the dist and rotor marking again. I actually got a brand new ac delco temp sensor i never put in yet i'll check dist tomorrow along with replace the temp sensor.

 

[Gearheadmike]

Btw when i got my alignment done the guy was nice enough to hook is live data up and with some small movement of dist i got the cmp set to between 0 and 1 but we had to rush before he opened shop that morning. And truck still cranked hard afterwards. Maybe my starter is just getting heat soaked?

 

[kennythewelder]

Btw when i got my alignment done the guy was nice enough to hook is live data up and with some small movement of dist i got the cmp set to between 0 and 1 but we had to rush before he opened shop that morning. And truck still cranked hard afterwards. Maybe my starter is just getting heat soaked?

If you timing is set with a code reader to 0 or 1 or even close, I don't see how it could be off 1 tooth. If your off 1 tooth, the truck will run like crap. It wont hurt to check though.

 

[big_mike]

Btw when i got my alignment done the guy was nice enough to hook is live data up and with some small movement of dist i got the cmp set to between 0 and 1 but we had to rush before he opened shop that morning. And truck still cranked hard afterwards. Maybe my starter is just getting heat soaked?

Get a fuel pressure gauge or tester and check pressure with key on, idling and watch the pressure after you shut it off.

You could have a bad FPR on the spider allowing pressure to bleed off after you turn the truck off. Or a weak fuel pump not supplying enough fuel when cranking. How long since you put a new fuel filter on it??