Vortec 5.7l oil consumption.

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Schurkey

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Degrade means degrade. Glad I could help.
Nice.

Does "Degrade" mean:
1. Viscosity breakdown?
2. Contamination with metal particles--aluminum, copper, iron, etc?
3. Contamination with soot?
4. Contamination with moisture?
5. Contamination with silica?
6. Contamination with coolant?
7. Contamination with fuel?
8. Vaporization of the volatile components?
9. Depletion of the additive package?
10. Something else?

Since I've proven over and over again, on multiple engines, using oil sampling/laboratory analysis that 7K mileage alone isn't enough to "degrade" oil, I'm wondering WHAT'S WRONG WITH YOUR ENGINE? 'Cause 7K miles should be a cakewalk with zippity-doo-dah for "sludging".

You show me a feedback fuel-injected engine that sludges at 7K, I'll show you an engine that has design flaws, or FIXABLE defects. An exception might be an engine that's driven short trips especially in winter, and doesn't warm-up. When my oil samples came back showing problems, in both cases it was because the thermostats had stuck open preventing the engine from achieving proper operating temperature. As would be expected, the oil had high moisture and fuel content. In both cases, replacing the thermostats resolved the oil contamination issues.

Oil analysis: It's a wonderful thing.
 
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JayMB

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My sister has a 2012 Malibu with a 2.4L ecotec 4 cylinder and we use Mobil 1 5w30 and change it every 3000 miles because that engine makes it's oil dark fast. When it used to get conventional oil, the oil would coke up in the passages for the variable cam timing and plug up the filter screens on the variable cam timing solenoids, causing the timing to be off and the check engine light to come on. It also has those stupid plastic timing chain guides that wear down if you aren't on top of your oil changes. I think it's awesome that you can get that sort of mileage on an oil change on your trailblazer but I think that anything newer with AFM (that stupid cylinder deactivation stuff on the LS engines) or plastic timing chain guides should get oil changes with good synthetic oil every 5k miles at the very most. I tend to buy my vehicles a few years old and own them until they become not worth repairing. The oil is cheap compared to engine replacements and downtime. I buy Mobil 1 5w30 in bulk.
 

FarmerPhil

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I'm seeing oil consumption higher than expected for a low mileage 1999 Vortec 5.7l running with 10W/30.
On another thread there's one poster who says changing to a xxW/40 cuts consumption - eventually ( a gradual process, why not immediate?).
Trying to figure if I have an internal problem or is this just what these engines do. I've pulled the plugs and the worst I'm seeing is a very light brown/tan on the porcelain of some of them (and only on one side of a plug).

So I'm throwing out the following questions to try and find out what's 'normal' for these engines.

A. What consumption do you have in miles/quart?
B. What grade of oil do you run?
C. What mileage has your engine covered?
D. What colour shows on your spark plugs?
TIA.

A - ~.5 qt / 3000 miles
B - pennzoil HM 10w/30
C - 210,000 mi.
D - n/a
 

FarmerPhil

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Nice.

Does "Degrade" mean:
1. Viscosity breakdown?
2. Contamination with metal particles--aluminum, copper, iron, etc?
3. Contamination with soot?
4. Contamination with moisture?
5. Contamination with silica?
6. Contamination with coolant?
7. Contamination with fuel?
8. Vaporization of the volatile components?
9. Depletion of the additive package?
10. Something else?

Since I've proven over and over again, on multiple engines, using oil sampling/laboratory analysis that 7K mileage alone isn't enough to "degrade" oil, I'm wondering WHAT'S WRONG WITH YOUR ENGINE? 'Cause 7K miles should be a cakewalk with zippity-doo-dah for "sludging".

You show me a feedback fuel-injected engine that sludges at 7K, I'll show you an engine that has design flaws, or FIXABLE defects. An exception might be an engine that's driven short trips especially in winter, and doesn't warm-up. When my oil samples came back showing problems, in both cases it was because the thermostats had stuck open preventing the engine from achieving proper operating temperature. As would be expected, the oil had high moisture and fuel content. In both cases, replacing the thermostats resolved the oil contamination issues.

Oil analysis: It's a wonderful thing.

you seem very passionate about oil analysis - do you have a rec for a professional company that does that? Address/phone no
 

Schurkey

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you seem very passionate about oil analysis
Yes, I am. So many folks don't even know that the service exists; or why it might be useful.


do you have a rec for a professional company that does that? Address/phone no
Most any Diesel-equipment parts department will sell you an oil-sample "kit", consisting of a sample bottle, a mailing bottle, and the processing fee. You collect the sample in the provided bottle, put that bottle into the mailing bottle, attach a pre-printed mailing label, pay the postage for shipment to one of several labs, and wait for some results. If there's nothing wrong with the oil, they mail you a report in a week or three. If there's a problem, they notify you faster. I think some kits include the processing fee AND a pre-paid postage label.

Decades ago, I was sending samples to an in-state lab perhaps under the Caterpillar Diesel network of labs. I then had a contact with Detroit Diesel, so I've been using their facilities for a long time. I think the samples go to Cleveland OH now. There's multiple labs, pick the closest one.

I bought a case of twelve oil sample kits; got a break on the price compared to buying individual kits. I'm about due for another case.

On the forums, I hear a lot about "Blackstone Labs" doing oil analysis. I've never used them.

Sample kits are also sold on Amazon and other on-line sources. Again, I've never dealt with any but Cat and Detroit Diesel.

I take an oil sample when I buy a (used) vehicle, I take a sample if I suspect a problem--like my failed thermostats--and I take a sample when I'm verifying extended-oil-drain intervals. I do not take a sample at EVERY oil change. Essentially, I "spot-check" my vehicles.

Photo 1. Scan of an old sample report--newest first (2012), with history back to 2006. Note that "Time on Unit" and "Time on Oil" is in miles, NOT in "hours".
http://hbassociates.us/Oil_Analysis_1.jpg

You must be registered for see images attach
 
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Erik the Awful

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We use Blackstone for the oil analysis on our BMW 3-series race car. All of our engine failures have been driver error (4-3 shift instead of 4-5) or oddball stuff (stock valvespring failed at 6,000 rpm) that oil analysis couldn't find. We've avoided a couple issues because of their analyses.

Personally, I haven't used it on my cars, but my wife's Chrylser 300 probably could have used it a couple years ago before it started ticking. Now we're just driving it until it drops.
 

454cid

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We use Blackstone for the oil analysis on our BMW 3-series race car. All of our engine failures have been driver error (4-3 shift instead of 4-5) or oddball stuff (stock valvespring failed at 6,000 rpm) that oil analysis couldn't find. We've avoided a couple issues because of their analyses.

Personally, I haven't used it on my cars, but my wife's Chrylser 300 probably could have used it a couple years ago before it started ticking. Now we're just driving it until it drops.

I've thought about doing it, but I'm terrible at changing oil. I do it a few times, and then I let it go way too long, or forget when I did it last. Right now, I can't recall when I last changed my oil in the truck.... of course I haven't been driving it much either.
 
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