Universal Joints

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

94Sierra4x4

All out OBS.
Joined
May 11, 2012
Messages
3,200
Reaction score
83
Location
Vancouver Island, British Columbia.
Alright, I'm in a pinch I wouldn't post a new thread for something like this unless I needed to know like.. an hour ago. Which I do, because I've got to go sign papers across town, an hour from now..

Asked for a rear-most universal joint for the rear driveshaft. I was given a Moog 331 U-Joint. Seems bigger than the one that's in their now.
It is 1350 style.. Do I need 1310?
Application suits my vehicle.... but I don't want to press this u-joint out without having the proper parts on hand.

Bearing cap on new u-joint has a 5.
Old cap has a 4

If that helps any.
Thanks


Edit:
Aluminum Driveshaft
Short Bed
Light Duty 6 lug with NV3500
10 Bolt Rear
Precision Part# PUJ 355C
 
Last edited:

JollyGreen

Metalworking Madman
Joined
Jun 21, 2011
Messages
4,339
Reaction score
68
Location
Tucson, AZ
I had a problem when I changed all my u-joints out. The u joint I was given for the rear driveshaft @ the axle wouldn't work. It pressed into the driveshaft fine, but when I tried to put the clamps on, the caps were too big (by 1/16"). So what I ended up doing was getting a u-joint that was meant for the half shaft up front, and used JUST the caps off of it. The fit was perfect. So basically I used what was called for on the rear (believe it was MOOG/PRECISION 354), AND the caps off the joint below as well. BTW- This was an aluminum driveshaft. Hope this helps.

Halfway down the page

http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthr...97-build/page10&highlight=jolly+green's+build





The joint I used the caps off of:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...621&categoryRedirect=07125&pt=07125&ppt=C0362
 

JollyGreen

Metalworking Madman
Joined
Jun 21, 2011
Messages
4,339
Reaction score
68
Location
Tucson, AZ
I need to rephrase that. My friend had bought another u-joint for the front halfshaft since he broke the cap pressing it in. I completely agree with you. Seems ridiculous to me. Maybe the clamps weren't the right size???

I stand corrected on the size; the caps were too SMALL, not too big. You can buy the u-joint it calls for, but it may be a crapshoot. :(
 

94Sierra4x4

All out OBS.
Joined
May 11, 2012
Messages
3,200
Reaction score
83
Location
Vancouver Island, British Columbia.
I need to rephrase that. My friend had bought another u-joint for the front halfshaft since he broke the cap pressing it in. I completely agree with you. Seems ridiculous to me. Maybe the clamps weren't the right size???

I stand corrected on the size; the caps were too SMALL, not too big. You can buy the u-joint it calls for, but it may be a crapshoot. :(

I realize your buddy busted one, hence you had some readily available.
I've found some info out on FSC.. Here's a post that I think helped me.
I'll go get all the ones I need.. will report back with part# for aluminum driveshaft to 10 bolt rear end..

Well, upon further searching I found this info originally Posted by GreaseDog. Figured I'd post it here in case anyone else is searching with the same questions. I suspect I was given the wrong u-joint if it didn't come with internal clips for my driveshaft side, right?

Universal joints:
Swapping a 14 bolt in place of a 10 bolt can get a little tricky to some because of the possible need for a conversion U joint. All 14 bolts that i have seen, both SF and FF, use a Spicer 1350 U joint. With this said, GM doesn't commonly use a Spicer 1350 joint on 1/2 ton trucks, most commonly they use a Saginaw S44 joint. I have however seen Spicer 1310 joints, and the occasional Spicer 1330.

Obtaining a positive ID on the joint isn't hard at all, just pull the joint, and measure it. If by chance you have stock U joints, you'll have to take a torch, and heat the caps up until all of the nylon melts out of the driveshaft and oozes out of the holes. Rather than using a retainer clip like the replacement joints do, GM uses an injected nylon retainer. Now that you've got the U joint out, you can measure it and see what it actually is. Here are the specs of the 4 above joints:

Saginaw S44: Cap diameter- 1.125", Lockup - Internal (clips inside the yoke) 2.556"
Spicer 1310: Cap diameter - 1.063", Lockup - External (clips outside the yoke) 3.219"
Spicer 1330: Cap diameter - 1.063", lockup - External 3.622"
Spicer 1350: Cap diameter - 1.188", Lockup - External 3.622"

Now that you have determined the stock U joint, you can find which conversion joint you need:

Straight Size Joints:
S44 Neapco PN: 2-3011
1310 Neapco PN: 1-0153
1330 Neapco PN: 2-4800
1350 Neapco PN: 2-0053

Conversion Joints:
S44 to 1350 is Neapco PN 2-1153
1310 to 1350 is Neapco PN 3-3140
1330 to 1350 is Neapco PN 2-3050

If by chance you have any other combination, which would be an extremely rare case, you can look up the joints by size here: http://www.aawheel.com/SiteResources...oUniversal.pdf Dimensional listings start on page 260.

heres some links to explore:
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techart...xle/index.html
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...gear-axle.html
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...0-14-bolt.html
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...coversion.html
 

5spd Z71

I'm Awesome
Joined
Feb 13, 2011
Messages
766
Reaction score
141
Location
Texas
U-joints can be pretty tricky. Especially if you get them from a parts store, because sometimes, the ppl there swap caps to make it work for the customer ( Ive seen it happen several times )

You need a u-joint with two internal ans two external clips. Also, you need the caps to be coated if your drive shaft is aluminum.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=PUJ355C_0235964916

Thats the u-joint that you need. Thats whats in my truck.
 

94Sierra4x4

All out OBS.
Joined
May 11, 2012
Messages
3,200
Reaction score
83
Location
Vancouver Island, British Columbia.
U-joints can be pretty tricky. Especially if you get them from a parts store, because sometimes, the ppl there swap caps to make it work for the customer ( Ive seen it happen several times )

You need a u-joint with two internal ans two external clips. Also, you need the caps to be coated if your drive shaft is aluminum.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=PUJ355C_0235964916

Thats the u-joint that you need. Thats whats in my truck.

Link didn't work :banghead:

And coated with what?
Thanks
 

94Sierra4x4

All out OBS.
Joined
May 11, 2012
Messages
3,200
Reaction score
83
Location
Vancouver Island, British Columbia.
Napa link worked - that particular u-joint is the exact one in my truck at this time.(according to my eyes) Thanks 5spd Z71!

Alright so

Aluminum Driveshaft
Short Bed
Light Duty 6 lug with NV3500
10 Bolt Rear
Precision Part# PUJ 355C
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
64,352
Messages
1,391,935
Members
51,472
Latest member
Jake rogers
Top