Truck died and cranking sounds like this..

[hekg]

I actually did not get the ICM tested because spark was strong at the coil.

I was going to replace the entire distributor but I took it out and the gear was perfectly fine as well as the plastic ears that hold the cap on so I'm keeping it.

The rotor itself was kinda burnt and the spark plug electrodes were down to the nub so I got new iridium ones and new cables.
I will post my results after I get everything installed hopefully tomorrow.

 

[hekg]

I decided to swap out the entire distributor because the old one has alot of vertical play but now I'm stuck on deciding which brand to buy without breaking the bank.

The GM one costs $387. Summit Raching has it for $170, 1A Auto has it online for $81, Advanded auto parts has it for $180, etc.. so I'm torn here.

Does anybody recommend a specific brand that's as good but cheaper than the GM one?

 

[454cid]

Go get the ICM tested (for free) before spending money. Have them run the test a couple of times, becasue heat can be an issue.

If you do buy a distributor, check Rockauto and Amazon.

 

[Schurkey]

I decided to swap out the entire distributor because the old one has alot of vertical play

Who cares about vertical play? GM sure doesn't.

Summit Raching has it for $170, 1A Auto has it online for $81, Advanded auto parts has it for $180, etc.. so I'm torn here.

Does anybody recommend a specific brand that's as good but cheaper than the GM one?

Far as I know, the stock-replacement aftermarket distributors are ALL Communist Chinese crap. The best you can hope for is that the basic machining is good, and the distributor gear is made from the proper material.

 

[jaywestfall]

I decided to swap out the entire distributor because the old one has alot of vertical play but now I'm stuck on deciding which brand to buy without breaking the bank.

The GM one costs $387. Summit Raching has it for $170, 1A Auto has it online for $81, Advanded auto parts has it for $180, etc.. so I'm torn here.

Does anybody recommend a specific brand that's as good but cheaper than the GM one?

I got a Street Fire one by MSD for my 5.7 Vortec. The shaft is billet not plastic like stock. Not cheap, but I have had zero problems. Have all MSD ignition parts and plug wires, too. Guess I am a fan.

 

[Schurkey]

I got a Street Fire one by MSD for my 5.7 Vortec. The shaft is billet not plastic like stock.

The shaft on ALL these distributors is steel. The shaft runs in a pair of bushings or bearings inside the housing.

The GM housing is plastic.

The MSD housing is CAST aluminum, not "billet". It's still Chinese. "Street Fire" is the MSD low-budget line.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-5592

 

[hekg]

Hey guys, I wanted to update this thread and let you all know that I fixed my truck by simply replacing the distributor gear with a GM one from amazon for around $35.

My old gear was not in that bad of shape but the shaft end play was pretty bad. I ended up using the washer from the old gear plus the washer from the new one so there is virtually zero play now.

I also replaced the cap and rotor with Napa Echlin ones and it's running beautifully again. Hope it lasts though. Thanks for all the help.

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[Schurkey]

You'd better have at least 0.015 cold end-play, or the distributor is in trouble when the aluminum housing expands from heat. I don't know how much a plastic housing expands.

Once installed and the retainer is tight, lift up on the distributor shaft. You need some end-play or the oil pump gets bound-up and scores the bottom cover.

Overall, shimming the shaft is common, but just about useless.

 

[hekg]

You'd better have at least 0.015 cold end-play, or the distributor is in trouble when the aluminum housing expands from heat. I don't know how much a plastic housing expands.

Once installed and the retainer is tight, lift up on the distributor shaft. You need some end-play or the oil pump gets bound-up and scores the bottom cover.

Overall, shimming the shaft is common, but just about useless.

Interesting .. you’re saying 0.015” or around 3.8mm?

It did have some end-play but I’d guess it was more around 2mm.

 

[454cid]

Interesting .. you’re saying 0.015” or around 3.8mm?

It did have some end-play but I’d guess it was more around 2mm.

.015" is 15/1000 inches. It's .381mm

.015 inch X 25.4 mm / 1 inch = .381mm

 

[hekg]

.015" is 15/1000 inches. It's .381mm

.015 inch X 25.4 mm / 1 inch = .381mm

Got it. Ok it sounds like I'm safe with the amount of end-play in my distributor shaft then.