If it's slipped, it's DANGEROUS. That bigass inerta ring will FUKK-UP a radiator, shroud, fan, water pump--five pounds of iron, spinning at 2000+ rpm could be like a hand-grenade went off in the engine compartment.If your problem is the old balancer (damper) rubber having already slipped,
UNTIL it flies off, it's doing a sub-standard job of absorbing the torsional vibrations.
I'm curious as to why the engine ran so much better with the timing advanced. However, at least try to put some science into this discovery--find out what the timing REALLY is. You'll need to verify the TDC mark on the damper by finding "true" TDC on #1 (or #6, but #1 is easier.)the best bet might be to just reset the timing back to the 12 degrees you had originally.
I can't even imagine what your timing is at higher RPM. Did you at least check the knock-sensor counts to assure the engine isn't detonating? IF (big IF) your timing is over-advanced, the knock sensor and electronic spark timing will retard the timing to eliminate the knock. But then, let's say you get a bad tank of gas, or it's exceptionally hot out--the engine detonates even more (but the computer is already at it's maximum electronic retard) There's no more spark retard available, and you pop the head gasket, or rattle the rod bearings out. If the timing is too retarded, you're throwing away power and fuel economy.I recall having the same problem and I did not bother disconnecting the EST wire. I think I just loosened the distributor and slowly rotated it one direction until I noticed the engine idle beginning to go down. I used a meter to check the idle. I marked that spot and then rotated the distributor the other way until the idle began to decrease. I marked that spot and set the distributor in the middle of both spots. It has worked so well for my old '88 Chevy, that I never bothered to buy a new balancer, even though my plan is to do so some day.
Timing an engine PROPERLY is SO EASY; and I bet you could buy a timing light at any pawn shop, or borrow one from a friend (Or just buy a new one!) Even getting one with the dial-back feature so you can map the timing curve at higher rpm is no real hardship any more; and hasn't been for thirty years.
Folks give me timing lights--they've bought newer vehicles where the timing can't be adjusted, and have no expectation of getting back into the hobby with an older car. I've got four of 'em; two I bought myself, two I've never tested. (On the "list of things to do".)
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