The Plow Truck: 99 454 CCSB

[RichLo]

Yea, take your time with finding a frame puller, those guys get paid the big bucks in that industry because they know what they are doing. They have multiple tie downs and precise hydraulics to get it right the first time, every time.

 

[Supercharged111]

Just be careful that for all of the force you put on the part you want to move, an equal force is being applied to the part you are using to hold it back, you could end up pulling both parts by an equal amount. Damn Newton and his 3rd law of physics.

I'm not following, if you immobilize something then it shouldn't move.

Yea, take your time with finding a frame puller, those guys get paid the big bucks in that industry because they know what they are doing. They have multiple tie downs and precise hydraulics to get it right the first time, every time.

I don't see a reason in the world why I can't methodically make this less bad but not perfect without shooting myself in the foot. If nothing else, it'll guarantee via Murphy's Law that a shop will actually get around to the job instead of ghosting me because they have more work than they can handle which seems par for the course out here.

 

[RichLo]

If it was just a Plow Truck I wouldnt have any issue with a backyard DIY fix (I've done substantial frame work on mine using a bottle jack and a stick welder). But you are planning on having it be a family cruiser and general work truck as well.

This is a propper DIY setup just making a banana'ed rail straight again. Not complex bends around critical suspension components like yours.

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[RichLo]

Using a tree and another truck in 4Lo could quickly go bad...

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[Orpedcrow]

I'm not following, if you immobilize something then it shouldn't move.

Right, the immobilized section won’t move but the rest can move/pivot around that section with enough force applied

 

[Supercharged111]

Using a tree and another truck in 4Lo could quickly go bad...

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I'm not going from zero to full send, nor an I anticipating one hit will get it done. I'm leaning toward hydraulics to move it more slowly. I found all the frame locations in an upfitter's guide on here.

What was the frame tied to here? I'm wondering if I can't put some anchors and d-rings in my garage floor. I'd probably need some math there, i.e. how many psi is my floor and how much force could it hold pulling like that?

If it was just a Plow Truck I wouldnt have any issue with a backyard DIY fix (I've done substantial frame work on mine using a bottle jack and a stick welder). But you are planning on having it be a family cruiser and general work truck as well.

This is a propper DIY setup just making a banana'ed rail straight again. Not complex bends around critical suspension components like yours.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[GrimsterGMC]

I'm not going from zero to full send, nor an I anticipating one hit will get it done. I'm leaning toward hydraulics to move it more slowly. I found all the frame locations in an upfitter's guide on here.

What was the frame tied to here? I'm wondering if I can't put some anchors and d-rings in my garage floor. I'd probably need some math there, i.e. how many psi is my floor and how much force could it hold pulling like that?

I understand what you are trying to acheive and my best suggestion is to have multiple hold down points versus a single pulling point. The 2 opposing forces will still be equal but the tie down side will have that force divided across multiple points. The downside is finding suitable tie down points in your garage. Go slowly and keep measuring and you should make some progress.

 

[Supercharged111]

Last GM coolant fitting in the world right here!

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Along with the hose and ignition stuff. Ignition requires a 411 swap though, before I do that I have an experiment that needs to succeed on my 1500 with the 411 to make the 4lo stuff work properly. I was able to cheat on the 1500, but don't have that option on my other trucks.

 

[Supercharged111]

Yesterday after my daughter's birthday I went and picked this up.

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It's a 2010ish Western Midweight plow with aftermarket wings and a flappy doodle up top. Decent plow lights on the thing too. I pulled all the wiring myself, it's plug and play with the headlights and requires a splice for the blinkers. Also has a positive and negative for the battery. That's pretty much it. I got the truck mounts too, all off of a GMT400. I got to see it work too, really can't get much better than that for a used plow. Dude is a general contractor and was moving away from the snow and offloading plow equipment. Here it is tucked away with the PYOs, the hangar is getting pretty full of crap now. I really need to get this truck together and slim down on some of the extra crap.

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I've had my eye on CL for a minute, most of the plows on there are either no name garbage or $4000+ and on a not GMT400 so still needs a $1000 mount. This one needs the skin beefed up where the wings poke through and a new cutting edge before it's ready for prime time, but it's good enough to horse around with here this coming winter.

Not pictured is a 4L80 and Np243 I picked up from him as well. Supposedly only 130,000 miles, looks the part so we'll see. It's on the bottom shelf in front of the blade. Lastly I have one more bit that I nabbed off of him. Remember this hot garbage?

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His 400s were both big blocks.

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At least the intake is no longer a hack job. I bet you $20 the A/C wires under that blue tape are twisted together.

 

[454cid]

What is the spring clamp next to the zip tie I'm seeing by the battery?