Tearing my hair out problem with 1997 Sierra SLE k1500

[df2x4]

At some point too large of wire puts resistance into the equation.

No, it certainly does not. If you're using actual copper wire, like you should be, using an excessively large gauge won't have any negative effects except unnecessary weight.

 

[meterman]

Yes I did soldered to relay and heat shrink


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[roughead]

My guess is that the dealer really did mess up with your wiring when they replaced the ignition switch. It should be returned for back job. I think they should check the ignition coil packs before concluding in replacing the ignition switch the symptoms of engine turning off after for sometimes cloud be due to overheating coil packs.

 

[Chevy529]

Df2x4.
I stand corrected about the wire size. You are correct. My apologies.

Finally took it to a guy I'd found who actually diagnoses things. Turns out there was too much resistance in the pump ground. In the past the relay had got hot enough to melt the plastic under the fuel relay and he couldn't remove the connectors so he ran new wires from pump to under hood, put a resistor inline and changed it so a normal (cheap) relay can now be used. Put on the Big 3 new grounds. Thanks for that suggestion! The wiper board I still need to address but it's next. Just chance that all these issues appeared at the same time, I guess.

Turns out the aftermarket remote start was sloppy done and had worked loose, too close to the connector block for signal lights. A little space and a zip tie cured my fuse problem.

 

[Chevy529]

Justin S;
That ground on fender near battery had 7.5 ohms resistance before I cleaned it and 1.3 after. Good call!

 

[Chevy529]

Thanks for all the help. Much appreciated!

 

[Chevy529]

Well, took cover off wiper motor. Thought it was going to break. Didn't realize the board was glued to the cover. Looks like new. The PCB looks pristine. No cracked solder points or discolouration at all. Even carefully pried up a corner of the board to peek at back and it looks new as well. The one contact point was wore more than the other but there was still tension on both. Cleaned the ground as well. We'll see if it stops or fails to park.

On another note while driving home late last night with high beams on they quit after 30 minutes. Sat for 10 minutes with switch off and they worked again but only for about 10 minutes. Waited again and they came on so drove the rest on low beam. Years ago I replaced high beam with 65 watt bright whites and it occurred to me it's been years since I had driven any distance on high beams. Checked that ground but it was less than 3 ohms. Cleaned it anyway. We'll see.

 

[sewlow]

The factory switches are known to die on these trucks. They get hot & like anything else, heat kills.
Here's a thread with diagrams on how to wire up an H/D harness that will help to eliminate the switch from getting so hot! Much more efficient, & even with stock wattage bulbs, you're headlights will be all that much brighter.
It also includes the 4-Hi mod as part of it!

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/heavy-duty-harness-4-hi-mod-wiring-diagram.23543/

 

[chrmaka]

The factory switches are known to die on thee trucks. They get hot & like anything else, heat kills.
Here's a thread with diagrams on how to wire up an H/D harness that will help to eliminate the switch from getting so hot! Much more efficient, & even with stock wattage bulbs, you're headlights will all that much brighter.
It also includes the 4-Hi mod as part of it!

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/heavy-duty-harness-4-hi-mod-wiring-diagram.23543/

YES. External relays help a lot. I'm running them for my high/low(if you have HID's its HIGHLY recommended)

 

[Chevy529]

Thanks for the link sewlow!

Very much appreciated.