sub boxes

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Rich32

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Yeah I would if you didn't see em you would think they were 15's
 

Chevyboy95

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i didnt read the first 5 pages but ill post what i think should go accordingly with what i saw skimming.

Partical board and wafer board are one of the worst things you can use to make a subwoofer box due to structural and density issues which are both needed for this application. Both those materials are brittle and cheaply made.

If you use anything either use MDF or Baltic Birch 13ply wood. Baltic birch is top of the line for subwoofer boxes and has less weight than MDF, but a hefty price tag.


Along the lines of subwoofers.....

those SA8v2's have enough throw and power handling to sound like a powerful set of 10's on the right power and the right box, which is why they are almost 200 bucks a piece, but a hell of a deal if you compare them to a name brand like JL or something that you get 1/3 the package at a higher cost.

The HDC3 15s that are in the black nasty's wall are on 2 AQ3500s at i think .5 ea, so 6 15s on 10k, possibly more. That think is a monster to say the least and throws up i think a 160 on the TL.

Honestly if i was going with a decent little system in my truck, i would do a 1krms amp, preferably korean board, with 1 12 ported under the back seat. firing into the passenger side wall.
 

Blazed

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heres a question since this has strewed from just boxes. as for amps is 400w enough for 2 10s and an 8 or how does all that work?

It all depends on the RMS watts of the speakers compared to the AMP and weather it's 4 Ohms, 8 Ohms or 2 Ohms.
 

ccreddell

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Actually the sensitivity of the subs has more to do with it than the wattage of the amp. If youre only getting 86-88db of sensitivity youre going to need a lot more watts to get loud. If youre at 96-98db you can get by with less.
 

1998ECSB4x4

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i didnt read the first 5 pages but ill post what i think should go accordingly with what i saw skimming.

Partical board and wafer board are one of the worst things you can use to make a subwoofer box due to structural and density issues which are both needed for this application. Both those materials are brittle and cheaply made.

If you use anything either use MDF or Baltic Birch 13ply wood. Baltic birch is top of the line for subwoofer boxes and has less weight than MDF, but a hefty price tag.


Along the lines of subwoofers.....

those SA8v2's have enough throw and power handling to sound like a powerful set of 10's on the right power and the right box, which is why they are almost 200 bucks a piece, but a hell of a deal if you compare them to a name brand like JL or something that you get 1/3 the package at a higher cost.

The HDC3 15s that are in the black nasty's wall are on 2 AQ3500s at i think .5 ea, so 6 15s on 10k, possibly more. That think is a monster to say the least and throws up i think a 160 on the TL.

Honestly if i was going with a decent little system in my truck, i would do a 1krms amp, preferably korean board, with 1 12 ported under the back seat. firing into the passenger side wall.

best legal score its done is a 157.3, although he usually dose a 154.xx he did do a 159.2 in the anything goes class. I did a 161.8 in that class also.
 

aaronb

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you need anl fuse's, also what rating you need depends on the amp you are running. say your amp has 2 40 amp fuses. you would need a 80 amp anl fuse.
 
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