Stock door speakers louder then New

[slippy3002]

I recommend a cap unless your upgrading your alternator. Like you did.

Sent from Robland

 

[LOH CHO]

Okay with all this is it safe to wire in an amp with stock wiring?

 

[dowsewashere]

You wire in a amp thats made for speakers. Such as a mono amp are used for subwoofers. You want alot of plug ins to wire individually. And no the headunit will be fine, just the amp pushes more power through the headunit to power the speakers better.

 

[slippy3002]

Okay with all this is it safe to wire in an amp with stock wiring?

No, not for an amp. 8-4 gage wire for power and ground. 14-12 for amp remote. 16-14 gage for speakers. Like it was mentioned before go with the next size up incase you plan to upgrade.
If your not running an amp then the stock wire is fine.

Sent from Robland

 

[slippy3002]

Okay with all this is it safe to wire in an amp with stock wiring?

Sent from Robland

 

[great white]

Okay with all this is it safe to wire in an amp with stock wiring?

Well, that all depends.

If you've got a relatively low power system and you're talking speaker wires you're ok to reuse the wire runs. Speaker lines only.

Problem is, unless you're mounting your amp right where you head unit is, your wires will not reach the amp. So you'll be running new high level lines from the amp to the speakers.

You'll also have to run power lines to the amplifier. OEM wiring is pretty much undersized for anything besides oem equipment. Sometimes its even undersized for oem.

My system is a bit oversized in the wiring department for my low power stuff, but here is how it is laid out:

4 gauge from the battery to a fused terminal block in the cab. From there it goes out to the components 12+ through 8 gauge. One 600w 4 channel amp bridged to 2 channels (front speakers) and on 300w 2 channel amp bridged to mono (sub).

Then 8 gauge from the components 12- to a terminal block and then 4 gauge to a chassis ground.

No light dimming, no ground loops, just good clean sound and im not running a lot of power.

As i stated before: if your supply system is good, you dont need to think about "caps".

Capacitors are actually a drain on the system. What happens is when a big call for voltage happens, the cap instantly discharges. When this happens, the capacitor becomes a drain on the electrical system as it's now hunger for charge. This sucks power away from your components.

Caps are marketed to those who don't fully understand what is happening in the system. If you've got dimming an whatnot going on, you're not getting full battery power to your components. There are many reasons for this such as undersized wiring for your draw, poor grounding paths, high resistance or even batteries in a low state of charge.

Your batteries are your "ripple dampers". Iow, they smooth out the difference between high and low draw. In order to do that everything needs to be "tickety boo".

When i installed my system, i was running a single 105a alternator. No problems. I later went to the ambulance package dual alt setup, mainly for all the radio equipment and accessories i tend to run

Get you system up to ***** and you don't need band aids to cover it up...

 

[sewlow]

I recommend a cap unless your upgrading your alternator. Like you did.

Sent from Robland

Only reason that I installed the big alternator was because I got it at the local P&P wreckers on a '$5.00/bucket day' sale.
I don't NEED it, but it was there, it was cheap, & on cruise night I get to brag it up! The system worked just fine for over 6 years with the stock little alternator.
Like I said. The system is finished..."MAYBE"! That alternator might be needed for the next upgrade go-round! Hehe!
A cap does not make the system 'better'. Fit's in with the idea that 2 batteries makes a system 'better'. (All THAT does is enable the stereo to be played longer, louder without killing the battery. Doesn't make it more powerful.)
To me, it's a crutch, a Band-Aid, as GW said.
Damn purdy, though!

 

[LOH CHO]

I think I'm in over my head on this big time. I know if you were to draw it out its not much, but super time consuming. The guys I got my JLs off of are a custom audio store and do full installs. In short they know what they are doing and I do not fully. I'm going to get a quote from them to do the wiring. I'd be more willing to do this but it's my DD I can't have it off the road or in pieces for weeks. I really appreciate all the responses guys I have learned more but I'm far from doing this much on my own. I know I'll pay out of my ass for this but, this way I know it's done right and I have lifetime warranty if anything goes wrong they will fix it no charge.

 

[slippy3002]

I think I'm in over my head on this big time. I know if you were to draw it out its not much, but super time consuming. The guys I got my JLs off of are a custom audio store and do full installs. In short they know what they are doing and I do not fully. I'm going to get a quote from them to do the wiring. I'd be more willing to do this but it's my DD I can't have it off the road or in pieces for weeks. I really appreciate all the responses guys I have learned more but I'm far from doing this much on my own. I know I'll pay out of my ass for this but, this way I know it's done right and I have lifetime warranty if anything goes wrong they will fix it no charge.

Really its not that bad. Not to knock anyone because I am no expert, but don't you think that audio shop would have told you what yo buy. This install should take no more than a day 2 tops, unless you are gutting the interior and putting in sound matting stuff. Do some research on this forum, google, and YouTube to find out how to pull the interior panels off(be extremely careful) to get to the speakers. Good luck on what ever path you choose.

Sent from Robland

 

[great white]

The biggest PITA about wiring an amplifier into a vehicle is simply routing the wiring.

The rest is just making connections which is mostly plugging in RCA cables or crimping a lug end or two.

The biggest pita is routing a power cable through the firewall. Its just a matter of finding a hole that's already grommitted or making a new one.

After that it's just fuses, grounds and whatnot.

It's sounds more difficult than it is.

Your truck is still drivable with the stereo and interior ripped apart. There's been many a time I've driven to work with a drivers seat bolted in and the rest of the interior sittig on the garage floor...