stepside rail replacement

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TechNova

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Step reinforcements were worse than I thought. That's the good one.
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I used 1/8" plate to make the reinforcement. I sprayed a thin coat of black paint on the bottom side and used a scribe to mark all the slots from the bottom (box is upside down). After rebuilding the braces, I bolted them in place and marked with a 90 degree scribe for the 8mm-1.25 bolts. The above pic does not have the brace holes drilled yet. The small center hole is only on the rear two steps and I marked it from the bottom and used it as a locator. I cut the slots with the plasma cutter and trued them up with a die grinder because I am not too steady with the plasma. The slots are simply clearance for the step pad retention tabs that grip the SMC box side. I cut the shape of the plates using the plasma and square tubing as a guide for a straighter cut.
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I bead blasted the parts and used two coats of epoxy primer. Nothing else is needed but I will hit them with some bedliner when I spray the underside of the SMC box sides.
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The braces were FUN. Above pic shows two nuts on inner side saved, two holes where nuts under step pad were removed. The Torx bolts took alot of effort. I have a bolt Buster mini inductor that heats the weld nut. I saved 5 of the 8 Torx bolts that are accessed inside the box. The four at each corner under the step pads were too far gone, not a chance. The process I used was to heat the weld nut until the nut and pointed end of the bolt glowed red. I would let each air cool then heat again heating just the nut, then let it air cool. The third time I heated it I would try to remove the bolt with the ratchet. The heating/cooling cycles breaks the rust bond in the threads. I did not want to try toilet bowl wax because of the mess getting down in my box seams.
For the broken bolts, I used a cutoff wheel on a 4 1/2" grinder and cut off the weld nuts. A file belt tool sanded the rest of the nut, I did not want to cut the brace. I run a unibit thru the holes to open them up, the weld nuts actually went into the hole in the brace a little, hard to describe but I made the hole big enough for the 8mm bolt to have a little adjustment. I did not weld nuts back in place, I figure to have a helper with a couple of the bolts and use a regular metric nut on them. The odds are slim I will ever take it apart again and not be able to reach both sides myself.
The last couple pieces have epoxy curing, I'll take pics of them installed next week.

I am having a difficult time finding 8mm-1.25 Torx head bolts to replace the ones I cut, my normal suppliers don't have them.
 
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TechNova

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I decided to use stainless button head allen bolts. probably a waste of money but after cutting alot of rusty bolts it feels good to use stainless. Next up is prep and spray bedliner on backsides of box sides. They are wide open front to back underneath, I might try to make some plastic or rubber liners to keep all the crap contained that comes off the tires. Maybe a cut down truck mudflap. The inside of the fuel door gets tire spray on it.
 
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TechNova

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I had another bumper but it was for a fleetside so I made a template from my original and used a M18 hacksaw to cut the fleetside bumper. I used some epoxy primer on the edge after cutting. Bumpers are easy to swap so if this one rusts on a few years I will find another when I am in the south or get a remanned from a local supplier. I'm trying to save some car money to get a 2wd RCSB so every bit I save here helps. The cut is almost all hidden by the pad.
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finished cut before primer, I also SEM Rust Sealed and undercoated the back of the bumper to slow the rust. I have not installed bumper yet, maybe today or tomorrow.
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