I replaced the support rails with fleetside parts from Dorman. I start working and don't slow down for pics so I only have a few.
The rails were easily cut to length on a steel blade chop saw. The front rail needs a relief on both ends to clear the pinchweld. The rails came with a green primer, it acted like a 2K but was translucent so I choose to use black epoxy inside the rails before I started.
this is what I started with, floor was great
because of the rust it was hard to see the spotwelds. (Interesting sidenote: the 88 bed we had off had spotwelds every other rib, this 89 had spotwelds every rib.) so I cut the rails flush and used a file belt tool on the spotwelds instead of a spot weld drill, some were drilled if easy to see.
Test fit center rail after trimming to length. A tape measure was used to get it in position, it has no bolt hole so it doesn't have to be exact. You can see a couple of the old flanges laying near it.
weld thru primer on bare metal. Epoxy would have been better but booth access meant using weld thru in the shop. Can't spray epoxy in the shop. The rails were MIG welded with a bead on top each rib instead of drilling all the plug weld holes. They will all get hosed with cavity wax later.
The other rails were also replaced one at a time (you do not get a rear rail, mine was good). a tram bar was used to measure the length and diagonal of each rail before removing it. The two tram bars were used to set the location of the rail by inserting the pointer into the bed mounting holes. When I got to the front cross rail, my second tram would not reach so I only did the diagonal. That should be adequate, the second straight tram setting was a little reassurance on the other rails. pic below shows a post check and the welds
The rails were easily cut to length on a steel blade chop saw. The front rail needs a relief on both ends to clear the pinchweld. The rails came with a green primer, it acted like a 2K but was translucent so I choose to use black epoxy inside the rails before I started.
this is what I started with, floor was great
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because of the rust it was hard to see the spotwelds. (Interesting sidenote: the 88 bed we had off had spotwelds every other rib, this 89 had spotwelds every rib.) so I cut the rails flush and used a file belt tool on the spotwelds instead of a spot weld drill, some were drilled if easy to see.
You must be registered for see images attach
Test fit center rail after trimming to length. A tape measure was used to get it in position, it has no bolt hole so it doesn't have to be exact. You can see a couple of the old flanges laying near it.
You must be registered for see images attach
weld thru primer on bare metal. Epoxy would have been better but booth access meant using weld thru in the shop. Can't spray epoxy in the shop. The rails were MIG welded with a bead on top each rib instead of drilling all the plug weld holes. They will all get hosed with cavity wax later.
You must be registered for see images attach
The other rails were also replaced one at a time (you do not get a rear rail, mine was good). a tram bar was used to measure the length and diagonal of each rail before removing it. The two tram bars were used to set the location of the rail by inserting the pointer into the bed mounting holes. When I got to the front cross rail, my second tram would not reach so I only did the diagonal. That should be adequate, the second straight tram setting was a little reassurance on the other rails. pic below shows a post check and the welds
You must be registered for see images attach
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