slippy3002
Master Machinist
Added and thanks
Speaker Write Up
- Thread starter slippy3002
- Start date
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jtlichty
I'm Awesome
I see you listed 6x9's as an option for the 95 and up trucks. But is there a difference between a regular cab truck and an extended cab truck for that space? Because I have a regular cab and have a hard time believing that I'll be able to fit a 6x9 back there. That being said I have not tried it yet and would like to, but if you already know of anyone who has done this or know that it can be done that would be helpful! Thanks! Nice write up!
Cadon69
GMT400 "Like a Rock"
I don't think it will fit in the back of a reg cab. I have a 95 extended cab and I had to cut the heck out of the back holes to. Ale it fit. It looks and sounds way better IMHO.
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NacIK
aka Dirty Hoe
Well, I am planning on installing a 4-channel amp to power my aftermarket door speakers later on. Right now I have 4 speakers that have a RMS rating of 50. I have a Pioneer receiver that puts out 14 amps RMS and 50 total amps. Would I see anything by upgrading the speaker wire or is it not worth my time and just wait later on to install an amp? I have been told that changing out the speaker wire helps, but my source also believed the zombies would take over the world last December.
Run new speaker wire when you install an amp.
Most people mount amps in the back of the truck somewhere (mine is on the back wall) so you'll have to run new wires anyway.
The factory wiring is fine with just deck power.
Most people mount amps in the back of the truck somewhere (mine is on the back wall) so you'll have to run new wires anyway.
The factory wiring is fine with just deck power.
NacIK
aka Dirty Hoe
I will run new wire when I install my amp since I am ripping out my carpet and installing new padding. I am going to install it on the floor underneath the rear seat.
I was thinking about just wiring up the same way I did my wife's Grand Am. I mounted the amp in the trunk, then I ran the rear speaker amp outputs to the rear speakers like normal. Then I ran the front speaker outputs and ran them to the old rear speaker wires that come from the receiver.
Hold on, it makes since. I the slid out the receiver disconnected all speaker wires. I then connected the rear speaker wires to the front speaker wires, thus making one run from the back deck to the front speakers without removing the door panels.
The main reason I did it this way is because I was using a small amp (50 RMS) and the factory wires were quite large. I was also replacing the receiver so I already had easy access to the wires.
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I was thinking about just wiring up the same way I did my wife's Grand Am. I mounted the amp in the trunk, then I ran the rear speaker amp outputs to the rear speakers like normal. Then I ran the front speaker outputs and ran them to the old rear speaker wires that come from the receiver.
Hold on, it makes since. I the slid out the receiver disconnected all speaker wires. I then connected the rear speaker wires to the front speaker wires, thus making one run from the back deck to the front speakers without removing the door panels.
The main reason I did it this way is because I was using a small amp (50 RMS) and the factory wires were quite large. I was also replacing the receiver so I already had easy access to the wires.
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TylerZ281500
Yukon Ridin High
agreed, i have the rear uppers upgraded in my 93 yukon as well as jbls in the dahs, boston acoustics in the rear panels, and upgraded 95+ door panel speakers
gmcyukondriver
Built, not bought.
Wrong. Kenwood makes a decent set of 2-way speakers. I have a pair in my truck. Probably not as high quality as a nice pair of 6x9's, but they fit without any modifications.
http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KFC-415C-160-Watt-10-Inch-Two-Way/dp/B000687QW6
Not trying to be mean, but do you even have an SUV? If not, you might want to let the guys who actually own them chime in. They're the ones who have done the research and probably know what's out there better than those who don't own one. I've seen guys who have done some cutting and fit 6x9's in the top as well, but they have to be under a certain depth.
Just saying. I would never try to give advice as to what speakers fit in an extended cab, because I've never owned one.
Just some friendly advice, like I said, not trying to bust your balls, just kind of a pain when people give out info that they haven't really researched.
TylerZ281500
Yukon Ridin High
so does dub apparantly.
sewlow
Bitchin' Stitchin'
Couple of things or two I'd like to add.
Sound deadening.
-For a really good sounding vehicle interior, just the actual 'interior', killer sound system or nothing at all, sound deadening really helps these trucks! It makes them feel more solid. Takes away a lot of squeeks & rattles. It's not cheep to do a whole interior, especially the bigger ones, but it can be done in stages. Did mine this way, 'cause it's my DD. In this order. On different days. Doors, backwall, headliner & pillars, then the floor. I did all of it with the interior in the truck. Left the floor till last cause it took the longest to do, & required pulling the seat. I can do that all day on someone else's vehicle, just a PITA to do it on mine!
When you install the new speakers, spend the extra time & $$$ to at least do the doors. 65-70% of interior road noise is via the doors! I've posted pix of that somewhere on the forum.
Install stuff.
Run the power/ground from the battery along each side of the tunnel to the amp.
That can be installed either in the console, under the seat, or behind them on the wall. If using multi-amps, use a distribution block as close as possible to the amps. A dist. block can be used to power other stuff in your vehicle too.
Use a bigger 'kit' than what you need. If your system requires 8ga, use the 4ga kit. Not only is the larger wire more efficient, but if you ever want to upgrade, & you will!, you don't have to go through all the wiring B.S. again!
Check the wire core of the wire too. Cheap off-shore stuff has a thicker plastic covering hiding wire that just may be undersize!
Use automotive speaker,ground/power wires! The really good stuff, read $$$!!!,says 'oxygen free' on it! ooohh! No house speaker wire!
Always wire your speakers in the proper polarity. +>+, ->-. Some wires are marked as such, some are colored. Red & black, or copper & silver. Some aren't marked, but one side will have a ridge. Black, copper, or the ridge is ground or neg.
If you use the push on ends at the speaker end, whatever they're called, IIRC the larger tab on the speaker is +.
Keep the speaker wires as far away as possible from the power/grounds by running them down each side of the tunnel.
Use the door sills for the speaker wire.
Oh yea! Focals!!! But at $1500.00 for a pair of 6.5's? They damn well better make me say "WOW"!!! Holy Crap!
That's all I can think of right now. But you never know! Lol!
Sound deadening.
-For a really good sounding vehicle interior, just the actual 'interior', killer sound system or nothing at all, sound deadening really helps these trucks! It makes them feel more solid. Takes away a lot of squeeks & rattles. It's not cheep to do a whole interior, especially the bigger ones, but it can be done in stages. Did mine this way, 'cause it's my DD. In this order. On different days. Doors, backwall, headliner & pillars, then the floor. I did all of it with the interior in the truck. Left the floor till last cause it took the longest to do, & required pulling the seat. I can do that all day on someone else's vehicle, just a PITA to do it on mine!
When you install the new speakers, spend the extra time & $$$ to at least do the doors. 65-70% of interior road noise is via the doors! I've posted pix of that somewhere on the forum.
Install stuff.
Run the power/ground from the battery along each side of the tunnel to the amp.
That can be installed either in the console, under the seat, or behind them on the wall. If using multi-amps, use a distribution block as close as possible to the amps. A dist. block can be used to power other stuff in your vehicle too.
Use a bigger 'kit' than what you need. If your system requires 8ga, use the 4ga kit. Not only is the larger wire more efficient, but if you ever want to upgrade, & you will!, you don't have to go through all the wiring B.S. again!
Check the wire core of the wire too. Cheap off-shore stuff has a thicker plastic covering hiding wire that just may be undersize!
Use automotive speaker,ground/power wires! The really good stuff, read $$$!!!,says 'oxygen free' on it! ooohh! No house speaker wire!
Always wire your speakers in the proper polarity. +>+, ->-. Some wires are marked as such, some are colored. Red & black, or copper & silver. Some aren't marked, but one side will have a ridge. Black, copper, or the ridge is ground or neg.
If you use the push on ends at the speaker end, whatever they're called, IIRC the larger tab on the speaker is +.
Keep the speaker wires as far away as possible from the power/grounds by running them down each side of the tunnel.
Use the door sills for the speaker wire.
Oh yea! Focals!!! But at $1500.00 for a pair of 6.5's? They damn well better make me say "WOW"!!! Holy Crap!
That's all I can think of right now. But you never know! Lol!
