smoking on startup and burning oil

[Ivan90]

She was in storage for 5 years and I had to replace the engine. The shop installed a remanufactured Powertorque engine. I never heard of Powertorque, but they remanufacture engines sold by OReillys. The engine comes with a 3 year 100K mile warranty. I’ve had the engine for 14 months and 16K miles so I’m well within the warranty period.

It doesn’t leak oil. Its burning oil through the tailpipes. It smokes on startup for about 5 seconds, but not every time, about half the time. It loses about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles, which is double the acceptable oil consumption rate as per GM bulletin #01-06-01-011I. I would understand for an older engine, but this one only has 16K miles.

The engine runs smooth and I don’t notice any loss of power. I opened a warranty claim and took the truck to the local GMC dealership, where they checked the PCV system – no trouble there. They think it’s a problem with the exhaust valve stem seals, but they don’t want to deal with it: the Powertorque warranty only pays a fraction of the repair cost.

I pulled sparkplugs this afternoon. Each plug has a clean side and a side that looks like a burnt marshmallow.

From what I’ve researched online, it could be valve stem seals. I’m planning to replace them. But what if that doesn’t work – what else could be causing my Powertorque engine to burn oil like that?

Any thoughts?

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Ivan90]

Forgot to mention - Its a 1993 GMC K1500 pickup, 5.7L V8, 350.

 

[c1500deathtrap]

well oil is getting into the combustion chamber, the only place oil can get in (barring catastrophes like holes in pistons) is through the valve guides via the valve seals, or up from the rings.But given that it is only an intermittent puff i would bet on the valve seals.

 

[DerekTheGreat]

What deathtrap said. Plugs have oil residue on them but aren't completely fouled out and that puff you mention is typical of leaky seals.

 

[Ivan90]

Thanks deathtrap and derekthegreat, I agree with your assessment, looks like I need to get in there and replace seals.

 

[BubbaGump]

^^^ what they said. Do lots of research before you jump in. Easy to mess up that job and have the truck leaking just as much oil as before.

 

[Ivan90]

This will be my first time inside valve covers. I ordered seals today. I have a valve holder hose for my air compressor. What is the best spring compression tool? I’m concerned about the tight space, with the A/C compressor, alternator, brake booster, etc. I’m thinking of ordering this Proform 66784 from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000630J84/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A35BKNF7G8DU3K&psc=1

And this is the procedure I plan to follow: http://www.autoblueprint.com/1971_pages/valve_seal_replacement.html

I’m tracking the importance of reinstalling in this sequence: 1) seals, 2) springs, 3) o-rings, 4) keepers, and 5) release tension from spring.

What could possibly go wrong… right? Appreciate any guidance/experience/recommendations.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[90halfton]

Air up the cylinder. It's an easy job. I always dump the seals into a bowl of stp zinc oil additive goop so the first time you fire it up they'll break in lubed until oil gets to em. Probably not even remotely necessary, just an OCD thing I do I guess.