Slight Rough Idle and TBI help

[jedi_jackson]

Thank you all so much. I had looked at the red devil driver cable. So I may purchase one of those. I have to work all weekend and I will do some more checking on the truck. I can't find any vacuum leaks. IAC looked good, but I cleaned it anyways. EGR Valve was removed and cleaned and surprisingly was in pretty clean condition and diaphram moved freely and didn't seem to have any leaks. Haven't been able to actually vacuum test it yet. I'm probably going to order a fuel pressure test kit and see what kind of pressure I have at the TBI. Also thinking about taking out the injectors and cleaning them in an ultrasonic cleaner that I have to see if that helps any.

 

[jedi_jackson]

So here is what I have so far. Got the red devil driver cable and connected it to the truck using tunerpro rt and I don't fully understand it yet but I have a code 32 dealing with the EGR. Best I can tell it's not functioning. I don't have a vacuum tester yet but I checked and I have power to the solenoid and around 43 ohms resistance when checking the solenoid. I have yet to see the EGR valve do anything. I took it off and cleaned it and it wasn't that dirty and seems to function properly. While the truck is idling I can manually nice the EGR and the engine will almost die. I also have a fuel pressure tester on the way, supposedly. Is it possible that the solenoid, although testing so far shows ok, that it is actually stuck?

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Here is XDL file of driving the truck for about 5 minutes or so.

 

[Schurkey]

I don't have a vacuum tester yet but I checked and I have power to the solenoid and around 43 ohms resistance when checking the solenoid.

1. Do you hear/feel the solenoid click when it has power and ground?

2. You're gonna need a vacuum tester. Might as well see if you can get one through the loaner-tools program at O'Reillys or some other parts store. You can buy them new, but they're almost all Communist Crap.

Decades ago, Mityvac was about the only game in town. The white-plastic pumps were great until you got brake fluid in them, and then they were ruined. They came out with a metal pump (Silverline) and they were wonderful. Eventually they sent production to China and they turned to shiit.

Snap-On had a couple models of vacuum pump. Fabulous quality. Hateful pricing. The SVT270, 270A, 270B is the go-to hand-held pump. Still made in USA, still has repair parts available. Near $200, though.

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

I have an original '270 (not A or B) that I bought used off of eBay for about $40. Cleaned the gauge, fixed a small leak in the valve...works great!

Naturally, there's folks selling all-plastic, Chinese knockoffs of the Snap-On pump. The Amazon reviews aren't promising.

Lisle, I think, started selling a hand-held vacuum pump about forty years ago, with a rebuildable brass body. Great idea. They don't sell that one any more. Now, there's thirty companies selling hand-held vacuum pumps, and they all look like Lisle's old brass-body pump. Probably knock-offs all made in the same Communist factory. They're all junk. Now Lisle sells a completely different (shiity zinc instead of brass) Made in China pump.

There's no reason to buy a crappy Chinese vacuum pump. See if you can borrow one instead.

 

[jedi_jackson]

1. Do you hear/feel the solenoid click when it has power and ground?

2. You're gonna need a vacuum tester. Might as well see if you can get one through the loaner-tools program at O'Reillys or some other parts store. You can buy them new, but they're almost all Communist Crap.

Decades ago, Mityvac was about the only game in town. The white-plastic pumps were great until you got brake fluid in them, and then they were ruined. They came out with a metal pump (Silverline) and they were wonderful. Eventually they sent production to China and they turned to shiit.

Snap-On had a couple models of vacuum pump. Fabulous quality. Hateful pricing. The SVT270, 270A, 270B is the go-to hand-held pump. Still made in USA, still has repair parts available. Near $200, though.

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

I have an original '270 (not A or B) that I bought used off of eBay for about $40. Cleaned the gauge, fixed a small leak in the valve...works great!

Naturally, there's folks selling all-plastic, Chinese knockoffs of the Snap-On pump. The Amazon reviews aren't promising.

Lisle, I think, started selling a hand-held vacuum pump about forty years ago, with a rebuildable brass body. Great idea. They don't sell that one any more. Now, there's thirty companies selling hand-held vacuum pumps, and they all look like Lisle's old brass-body pump. Probably knock-offs all made in the same Communist factory. They're all junk. Now Lisle sells a completely different (shiity zinc instead of brass) Made in China pump.

There's no reason to buy a crappy Chinese vacuum pump. See if you can borrow one instead.

I'll check and see if I can rent one of those and I've never heard or felt the solenoid click. Could I try putting 12v to the solenoid to try and activate it?

 

[Schurkey]

It'll need power and ground. May want to verify with the service manual that it's intended to run on 12V; some stuff that's driven by the ECM runs on 5V.

Or just check the voltage at it's plug with a multimeter.

 

[kenh]

Didn't read the whole thread so.... Check the play/clearance of the throttle shaft. If it wiggles at all when moved by hand then it needs to be rebushed or the TB replaced. Mine is loose but I'm not doing anything with it as it is getting pulled this winter. My engine suffers from idle speed issues. fast one time then "normal" depending on how the throttle plates close due to the worn shaft.

 

[jedi_jackson]

Ok, the solenoid is working. So I will get a vacuum tester and check the EGR valve. Also while troubleshooting, I was going to remove my fuel injectors and clean them and noticed the one on the left in the picture is wet and the right is dry. What could cause this?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

There are O-rings and a gasket under the top plate, hopefully it's leaking there and not something more serious.

 

[jedi_jackson]

There are O-rings and a gasket under the top plate, hopefully it's leaking there and not something more serious.

What would be more serious? Need new injectors?

 

[Schurkey]

What would be more serious?

Warped or corroded castings that require replacement of hard parts, not just gasket 'n' O-rings.