Shocks Hit Control Arm

[panda_man22]

Hey guys im new to the site and im just looking for some insight, i searched but didnt find an answer.

I just bought a 97 k1500 short box regular cab with 285/75/16 and 2.5" blocks along with the torsion bars cranked....

When i bought it id had a blown transmission and i have yet to actually drive it. Anywyas - i noticed that the skyjacker shocks taht are mounted in the front, were mounted upside down... so naturally i removed them and realized that the shock body will interfere with the upper control arm.

Now i know that monotube shocks can run fine upside down BUT why is this happening?
is it due to jsut torsion bars cranked and the geometry way off or should i be looking at something else??

THANKS a lot

 

[am92]

What do you mean upside down? If the rod is pointed up and the body is down then that is how they are supposed to be mounted

 

[MOBS]

If they were infact run upside down, the only thing that comes to mind is the old shocks used on the rear of a cantilever-chassis car/truck. They have a stud on the body end and an eyelet on the shaft end. If they made a press-bar and inserted it into the eyelet, it would make it useable on the lower control arm and the stud would be used in upper shock mount, thus making the shock run upside down. That just sounds like too much trouble though....

 

[dirtridinz71]

More then likely just from being cranked to much, if it is sitting level with a 2.5" block in the back then is cranked to much!

 

[panda_man22]

no the actual shock is upside down, both ends have eyes and the bushings were just swaped ends to allow them to fit. The body is at the top and the rod at the bottom

it what other ways can the fornt be lifted 2-3" from stock to alleviate this problem.???

thanks

 

[dirtridinz71]

Only a true suspension lift will work but that would be a 4" lift.

Doing a balljoint flip may also give enough clearance but that is not fixing the problem. You will still destroy front end components quickly and have that rough ride.

Other option is to pull the rear block, decrank and go for a 3" bodylift.

 

[am92]

Other option is to pull the rear block, decrank and go for a 3" bodylift.

This is your best option if you only want 2-3" of lift or can't afford a full suspension lift

 

[trailer-trash]

My truck does the same thing after the install of the RCX "6 inch" kit..only with it on the lift at full droop....I have been contemplating flipping my shocks to alleviate them contacting the upper control arm...Most aftermarket shocks can be inverted with no harm done.

 

[panda_man22]

well sounds like it will become the part of the leave it as it is club. I like the way it sits, i have never driven it so not sure how harsh the ride will be.
I know it has new ball joints and L axle. the truck will not be gettign a lot of mileage jusk back and forth to work in the winter and when i need a truck all other times...

thanks for the input

for those who want to see (lots of pics in link) -- ive done lots in the past couple months cait wait to get home from traveling for work to take her for a first drive and get my final order from LMC to finish up the loose ends
http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m66/panda_man22/4x4/

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http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m66/panda_man22/4x4/