yevgenievich
I'm Awesome
I will add to seeing loose reluctor in the distributor. Holes that hold the center point were also stripped causing caps to die. Definitely worth checking as it is just pressed on.
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Pulled off a module from a 5.7 at the junk yard and it says “HKM”. So I am swapping that one on to mine as mine does not have that on it and part numbers are different. Basically took every sensor off the 5.7 to swap on to this haha.I believe the 5.7L module is code "HKR"
"HKM" is 5.0L. The ones to get are "HKR" or "BLH". "BLH" being the least sensitive to knock.Pulled off a module from a 5.7 at the junk yard and it says “HKM”. So I am swapping that one on to mine as mine does not have that on it and part numbers are different. Basically took every sensor off the 5.7 to swap on to this haha.
Ah, damn lol. Well I swapped it over anyways and **** didn’t run and now it won’t turn over and my timing went way off. So putting all the original stuff back as it was probably meant for the 350 haha. Next up is pulling the computer ."HKM" is 5.0L. The ones to get are "HKR" or "BLH". "BLH" being the least sensitive to knock.
Well timing was okay but I don’t know how to explain it haha. The mark was so far retar*ed when the 5.0 stuff was hooked up. But anyways, ran, but then I unplugged the map sensor and it shut the truck off as it should. Put all the original sensors back on…. And now she cranks but no start hahaha. This engine is a nightmare. My money is on the ECU. I was able to get power to my obd port… just kept flashing 12. I know that means no issues, but it wouldn’t change. Stayed flashing 12 and the service light is on still as well.i doubt the knock module would prevent it from running and the only thing that affects your timing is the distributor & ecu calibration
Plugs are good, there is spark and there is fuel. PSI for fuel is 12. I have not done a crank compression test as I can't get the engine to optimal temperature for an accurate reading as truck wont run now and being cold could produce lower numbers if I were to just test it. But I guess I could to get a somewhat baseline. When it did run, it did not blow blue, white or grey smoke at all, zero oil leaks, zero leaks of any kind. New gaskets on everything, and I distributor gear is good. Timing is checked and good. Gears are good and not stripped. I disconnected the battery and will let it sit over night and maybe it will reset everything. Will be picking up a new ECU and PROM this weekend coming up. Will check back then..1. Are the plugs fouled?
2. Do you have spark when cranking?
3. Do you have fuel spray when cranking?
4. What is the fuel pressure?
5. What is the cranking compression pressure?
There's surprisingly little difference between a "cold" compression test, and a "hot" compression test.I have not done a crank compression test as I can't get the engine to optimal temperature for an accurate reading as truck wont run now and being cold could produce lower numbers if I were to just test it. But I guess I could to get a somewhat baseline.
Ignition timing, or cam timing?Timing is checked and good.
Fifteen seconds should do it.I disconnected the battery and will let it sit over night and maybe it will reset everything.
Ignition and cam timing is good. I am not working on the truck anymore today. So I am just leaving it unplugged over night. But my money is on the ECU still has the 5.0 PROM in it and not a 5.7.There's surprisingly little difference between a "cold" compression test, and a "hot" compression test.
Ignition timing, or cam timing?
Fifteen seconds should do it.