Replaced rear brakes - now 1 side hot & grabby

[Wickedstick]

Update,

Both roll freely when cold. Can hear slight dragging on both sides. Drivers side seems to drag in only one spot.

Cold. Cracked bleeder with wheels elevated and spun several revolutions and did not notice a decrease in drag on drivers wheel.

Hot. Drivers Wheel still binds with bleeder open. Only binds turning forward. Releases easily turning in reverse.

Noticed drivers wheel stopped first when brake applied with wheels jacked up and idling with vehicle in drive.

Wheels do not appear to wobble when rear jacked up.(axle not bent) Lined up lip of rim with body molding like gun sights and looked for runout. Did not see any runout/wobble on either side.

Did notice that with wheels jacked up that pass wheel would spin and drivers would eventually stop due to brake drag in drive. Both seemed to spin at same speed in reverse.

In my mind this eliminates any hydraulic issues. I am going to try and dissect that brake hardware and make sure I didn’t overlook anything.

 

[El Tigre]

Had exact same problem ,and turned out to be the metal edge of shoes were wider than space between backing plate ,and drum when bolted up. Look for witness marks inside drum near where mounting flange near friction surface.

 

[Wickedstick]

Had exact same problem ,and turned out to be the metal edge of shoes were wider than space between backing plate ,and drum when bolted up. Look for witness marks inside drum near where mounting flange near friction surface.

As in the shoe was wider than the drum? As in the metal part of the shoe not the friction material correct? Did you just grind it down or get different shoes? I will check this ASAP!

 

[El Tigre]

By the time I figured this out it had clearanced itself. Drove me nuts.
Replacing adjuster ,wheel cylinder ,etc,etc... Could have slipped a 1/4" spacer
between hub ,and drum. As I was already using them to move wheels outward a bit.
Could try swapping drums right to left also. If I were to have fixed it knowing what I do now.
I'd remove drum ,and grind metal edge down slightly with Dremel tool.

 

[Wickedstick]

By the time I figured this out it had clearanced itself. Drove me nuts.
Replacing adjuster ,wheel cylinder ,etc,etc... Could have slipped a 1/4" spacer
between hub ,and drum. As I was already using them to move wheels outward a bit.
Could try swapping drums right to left also. If I were to have fixed it knowing what I do now.
I'd remove drum ,and grind metal edge down slightly with Dremel tool.

I’m going to pull it apart and look for shiny spots! Got a few other things to check too! Thanks!

 

[El Tigre]

Could prolly slip a washer on each wheel stud ,and then install drum.
A cheap ,and easy way to fix if problem is the same as I described

 

[Wickedstick]

Could prolly slip a washer on each wheel stud ,and then install drum.
A cheap ,and easy way to fix if problem is the same as I described

I may try that to verify if that’s the issue. At this point the drum and shoes are torched I’m sure. I’ll probably put drums and shoes on it once I determine what the issue is.

 

[El Tigre]

My shoes on that side suffered additional wear ,but let them ,and drum be.
Adjusted as best as I could. That was a couple years ago ,and they've been fine.
Have a new set of shoes to install in the spring maybe.

 

[Wickedstick]

UPDATE.

Discovered friction material on shoes is not mounted square with metal backing. On the drivers side rear shoe(long shoe) the bottom inside of the friction sticks off the metal backing by almost 1/8”. It is causing the shoe not to sit properly on the perch on the backing plate. Seems to be making the shoe try to slide off to the rear of the perch and drag on the drum. Will be replacing shoes on both sides and drum on that side and will report back.

 

[Wickedstick]

UPDATE!

replaced rear brake shoes. Drivers rear wheel cylinder for the third time. Drivers rear brake drum for the third time. Removed emergency brake mechanism from inside of drum. Pulled cables out of the backing plate. Let them rest on top of the rear axle. Went for 20 mile round-trip test drive. Came back Checked all four brakes with temp gun. All were the same temperature. Problem the whole time has been sticky emergency brake cables. Thanks for all the help and input! I hope this helps someone out. For those that are worried about it I will be buying replacement emergency brake cables and installing them.