replace driver side leaf spring without dropping tank

[Dd1994]

Is there any way to remove the forward bolt holding in the leaf spring to the frame without removing the gas tank. The clearance between the frame and the tank seems pretty small. truck is a 2000 Yukon Denali. One of my leafs are broken and I already have new leaf springs ready to go in.

 

[skylark]

Remove the nut, tap the bolt back, cut off bolt head and pull bolt out from the nut side. When reinstalling put the nut on the other side.

 

[Dd1994]

I might try that, its either that or take apart the stack and just reuse the top spring and replace all the others, but your way sounds better.

 

[ChrsLytn]

Brilliant, Skylark. Absolutely brilliant. I'm probably fixing to take mine off (98 K1500) and get them redone cause they squeak like hell and the more grease I spray on em the more grit they collect and the more they squeak some more. I was just checking the forum for any quirks. Glad I did.
If I put stands under the frame,rear end and under the yoke/rear driveshaft that should support everything good enough to pull both springs out shouldn't it?
I got a price of 100.00 for each side to rebuild and I guess they rearch them if needed.
How do springs react when end bolts and u-bolts are removed?
Does the frame need to go up some to move the springs around?
Probably need new u-bolts?
And any other pointers.
Thanks

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

That bolt is but in at that direction to help prevent it from puncturing the fuel tank in an accident. IIRC you just need to slide the tank over to get the bolt out, not remove it.

 

[way2fast]

Brilliant, Skylark. Absolutely brilliant. I'm probably fixing to take mine off (98 K1500) and get them redone cause they squeak like hell and the more grease I spray on em the more grit they collect and the more they squeak some more. I was just checking the forum for any quirks. Glad I did.
If I put stands under the frame,rear end and under the yoke/rear driveshaft that should support everything good enough to pull both springs out shouldn't it?
I got a price of 100.00 for each side to rebuild and I guess they rearch them if needed.
How do springs react when end bolts and u-bolts are removed?
Does the frame need to go up some to move the springs around?
Probably need new u-bolts?
And any other pointers.
Thanks

If anyone in Las Vegas would like to do my flip and springs let me know.I'll pay the going rate

 

[movietvet]

What @skylark said is correct and I have done it a few times. @Knuckle Dragger, if worried about fuel tank puncture, you just use the shorter length new bolt when reinstall.

@Dd1994, you can reuse that spring but is a PITA trying to restack and strap them in place. Gotta have an assortment of C clamps to do it.

@ChrsLytn, yes, you want to get new u-bolts. Should get with new springs or a local spring shop can make them. I used to run a shop where we made leaf spring packs and made our own u-bolts. You can put stands under the frame but use a good floor jack at the bottom of diff. That way you can rock or teeter the axle up and down at each side. Be careful and possibly disconnect the brake line attachments but would not have to break open. Those spring packs can be awkward, be careful. Hopefully the springs have new eye bushings. When you slide bolts in, grease them and grease the spring mount pad at axle.

 

[movietvet]

@skylark, I forgot to say that before you start all this, it would be a good idea to spray liberal amounts of penetrating fluid at the threads and after you get some room behind the nut, spray down the bolt length to help when trying to slide bolt out of the bushing eye, especially if live in a salt on the road state.

 

[Schurkey]

Perhaps a moderator will move this thread from "Engines" to "Stock Suspension + Bolt On Kits".