Pitman arm install trouble

[Dave]

Im in the middle of installing my lift and my steering componets are worn out so I have to replace them so I can be able to put my new centerlink on. I installed a new idler arm/bracket and removed the pitman arm without any issues but I can't seem to get the new pitman arm seated all the way down on the steering box.

There is about 1/4'' or maybe less of a gap between the pitman arm and the steering box. So I removed the steering box from the truck to make it easier to work on. I tried to drive it down using the nut and a impact, I tired beating it down using a big hammer and I tried to press it on using a 12 ton press. The splines are lined up correctly and they're clean. I ended up buying another pitman arm thinking maybe something was wrong with the first one I bought but I got the same results.

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Is there any tips or tricks to putting on a pitman arm? This it my first time replacing one and I didn't think it would be this hard.

My truck is a 95 4WD Yukon and it is a Moog pitman arm

 

[redchevy914x4]

Did you happen to see how far down the old one was? I think on my truck its not flush. Its not that big of a gap but there is a gap. I think the shaft on the steering gear is tapered but I may be wrong.

 

[JAW's]

I just did mine this weekend and there is a gap that remains. I do not recall how much though. I put the puller back on it and there was just enough clearance between the puller and the pitman arm. That is how the factory one was as well.

 

[WTTAHOE]

First ever post on this forum. I do a lot of reading but try to leave the advice to the experts. However, i felt the need to help you out because I also recently experienced the same issue.

I rebuilt much of the front end of my 97 Tahoe a few months ago. The pitman arm was a pain to replace as I tried everything to get it seated like the stock arm. My replacement was also Moog. The stock pitman arm is not tapered where the Moog is. It is not going on as far as the stock arm. My gap was similar to yours and mine is torqued probably tighter than anything I ever torqued in my life. When I had the front end aligned I asked a local mechanic about it and he said it is a common issue on these trucks but as long as there is some bite on the splines and the nut is torqued to spec (Around 180 I believe) it should be good. No problems out of mine but I torqued to 230 just to be sure it wasn't coming off.

One thing you may try is to use an impact without the locknut installed. Torque it down good, back it off, then replace the lock nut, and torque to spec. I can tell you that arm is not going on much further regardless of what you do. If it makes you too uncomfortable I would suggest trying to find an arm that is not tapered.

 

[98slv]

Thats the way both mine look like 2wd and my 4wd I'd put the box back on and forget about it.





Little tip for everyone that has trouble getting your arm off, the universal tool will work! The u-shaped tool with a bolt running through the middle of it... Take two of the bolts, that run through the frame and into the steering box, completely out then you may have to loosen the third. Rotate that thing up and the tool will clear the frame crossmember.

 

[Regulator Red]

Y'all are correct... As long as the new arm splines into the gear and the nut is torqued properly, drive fast and take chances!!

Love life. Live love.

 

[twomanymontes]

That gap is nothing, as long as the nut is torqued, you will be fine.

 

[95C1500]

On mine it had a rubber boot that covered a small gap. We got it pretty dern close and the guy at the shop had no problem with it...

 

[mattillac]

My new one fit like that too and after reading around it seemed very common.
The new part on mine may have been thinner than the stock part, making it seem as though it was not down far enough.
What might have worried me more is if the arm fit on so easy/loose that the nut bottomed out on the shoulder instead of the arm.
Be nice to see an angled view of the arm, to see how far it could go before the nut would hit the shoulder. I would guess mine had 3/16" to spare.

I am assuming that the nut shouldn't reach the shoulder, wouldn't be the first time I was wrong though.

 

[Dave]

Thanks for the replies, If it is ok to have a gap there then wouldn't that make my center link crooked? Does anyone know what brand pitman arm that is not tapered like the Moog?